No problem. I have tools like that in my box just sitting there but it's handy to have when you need it. I have a few tools like that around. I almost have too many tools if that's a thing. If i need it I just go and get it. I have a hard time throwing broken tools away as well. But it's all good.
You stay safe out there as well I know you will be working.

 

The replacement air tube was at the house when I got home from work today. This will be going in and then I'm going to try to fix those threads in the insert in the bad one to keep it as a spare. Stay tuned...





Looks like i got a good one...

 

Looks good... Probably a rainy-day project at best, but another idea to repair your defective tube is to insert a screw into the stripped insert and heat the screw to the point the plastic around the insert starts to get soft and pull it out. Install new insert onto screw and install into tube. Heat screw until plastic around insert starts to melt and remove heat and hold screw/insert until plastic solidifies. Maybe worth a shot if the other suggestions don't work. Best case you won't ever need it and it collects dust and 10 years from now when you're cleaning your garage and doing a 5S project you decide to pitch it.

 

That's a sound idea as well but truth be told, now that I'm thinking about it, I'll probably put the old one in the box with the OEM intake and probably forget about it. There's way too much to do around the house, the honey do list, plus the stuff I have for the truck that I want on so I'm thinking it will be for another time. I'm just one of those guys who likes to fix schitt, you know, problem solve just for the simple reason because I can. It's a feeling of accomplishment. Thanks as always Troy.

 

So, when you posted this I thought the same thing about my truck... however, I can't go back and know for sure... But, after I read this I took the card out of my iDash Data Monster and started trying to sort through all the logs to find some regens to look at the numbers.... but wow... that is a TON of information! I gave up... But, this morning on the way to work my truck regened again (this time it was 892 miles since last regen, according to the iDash - the time before it was 900, and the time before that it was somewhere in the high 800's... none of this has been towing either). Anyway, so when I got home this evening I grabbed the card out of the iDash again, and this time I found the log for this mornings regen! Here are my max temps:

EGT 1: 765.5 F
EGT 2: 1307.1 F
EGT 3: 1124.6 F
EGT 4: 1202.1 F

So, EGT 1 was well below the 1000 F mark, and for most of the time it was actually high 600's. The times it got up into the 700's was really when going up hills... and there are a lot of hills on my 27 mile (one way) commute to work, and fairly large ones at that. So, my EGT 1 temps actually fluctuated from the high 500's (going downhill) to the mid 700's (going uphill), but like I said, it mostly sat in the high 600's. I turned on Auto Regen as I was backing out of the driveway this morning at the camper, and the regen finished about 25 minutes later, just before I got to work. However, it took a few minutes/miles to get the temps up high enough for the truck to actually start the regen too. What was interesting this time though is that I noticed when the iDash showed the Regen was OFF, the truck still displayed 10% on the DPF filter, however, about 30 seconds later, it dropped to 0%. Normally, the truck would read 0% before the iDash showed the regen was OFF... Also, when the iDash noted that the regen switched OFF, the iDash displayed a 30% soot level, however, over the next few miles finishing my way to work, it dropped to 24%, which is where it still is if I am not mistaken... Also, my iDash NEVER gets back to 0% after a regen... low 20's is the norm here.

I installed my S&B CAI on April 29th, and have since put just over 5000 miles on it. Also, when I first got the truck, I ran Optilube XPD in every tank of fuel. About the same time I installed the new CAI is about the time I switched over to using Hot Shots EDT and a couple of tanks before that I started using the FBC also. (I am almost out of one of the first 16 oz bottle and will have to get another one soon.) I really wish I had paid closer attention to the numbers before, but I didn't, however, I want to say that I had seen my EGT 1 temp over 1k on the iDash when doing some regens... but lately, it just doesn't seem to have been even close, and now I see for sure that it hasn't... but I am not smart enough to say why.... or even if it's a good thing. Part of me thinks that the higher temps would allow a more complete burn off, but then again, maybe they don't have to be that hot???

Anyway, if you are interested, I imported this mornings log into a Google Spreadsheet if you want to check it out. There are a few other parameters that were logged too (I need to spend more time on setting up the iDash to log more/different parameters)... Some of them may help some, I dunno... I know it logged the MAP Commanded parameters and the MAF parameters... but I warn you... this one log is over 21,000 (that's right... 21 THOUSAND) lines long.... this was just for my 27 mile drive to work this morning... lol!

Let me know what you think!

 

Yeah I've got a Data Monster also and don't use it to it's full capacity.

The reason I noted that EGT1 was under 1k deg was because when I'm climbing the hills a warmer day on the expressway during an active regen, I see sustained EGT1 temps of at least 1k degrees.

The weather here has been nice with a few very hot days. But when August and September hit, it gets warmer. So I'll keep track of this. The reasoning I believe that EGT1 < 1k deg is that the turbo is getting more air from the improved air filter/intake and keeping the temps cooler. I'll have to make note of this on the hotter days when I'm in a regen climbing those hills.

I'm simply amazed at these 20 plus trucks and their ability to go beyond 500 miles. I am running the Pittsburgh Power Max Mileage FBC (fuel burn catalyst). I am not seeing lower soot load totals from running it but I do think it helps with the active regens though by them completing in less miles total.

I run K100D+ and will not run my truck without it. If you are ever curious and have time, I have posted on K100 in other threads. You could do a search. The way I read it is not K100 contains no petroleum products but is only organic chemistry. Now I understand that petroleum contains oxygen, hydrogen and carbon chains like organic chemistry does, but I'm no expert in chemistry. I hated chemistry in high school and I hated it in college.

I don't count on the iDash for the soot load. I only consider and use the truck gauge. During an active regen, the iDash usually always goes to zero. If the regen ends, the iDash will count down (reduce) to zero. I also see the gauge say 5% less than when I shut the truck off at after an active regen. For example, if the truck ends up at 25% (truck gauge), when I start it the next day, she reads 20%. The relationship of the iDash to the truck when it comes to the soot load % is goofy. So I just let it go and use the truck gauge for reference.

I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a Banks 4 inch DPF back exhaust. I wanted the dual tip but can't justify spending almost an extra 300 bucks to get it. So I'm going with the single tip in black. Then if I want a different type or a bigger one like a 6 inch tip, I can add it. I figure if I lessened the resistance on the intake side, I want to lessen the resistance on the exhaust side with a 4 inch pipe. Eliminating that resonator in the tailpipe has to help with flow also.

Next year I'm in for a Mishimoto 6.7 Powerstroke CAC. It's supposed to improve flow by 22% and yield 40 lb ft more of torque. Once again, the 6.7 Powerstroke is a big air pump. Let's reduce the restrictions to air flow through out the system. But to each their own I guess.

Thanks for posting that Google spreadsheet. I'll have to take a gander at it when I get a chance.

 

I am definitely learning more about the iDash... but most of the parameters it reads, I need to learn about too... it's a bit daunting to me when looking through them, but even more when I try to figure out what the parameters should be, and then what does it mean if the parameters are not where they should be? LOL... On another note, I am still waiting to hear back from Banks about the issues I am having with my iDash... I guess it's not the end of the world, but the increasingly often times missing transmission temp parameter, or just not booting up or displaying any parameters when cranking the truck is getting a bit ridiculous on a $400+ items that is only about 8 months old... I will admit, the customer service at Banks is a bit of a let down...

Anyway, here where I am in IA, the temps have been in the mid 90's a couple of times, but mostly 80's. So not as hot as back home in MS, but still pretty hot on occasion, however, there are both more, and bigger hills here. And I know that we have different gen 6.7's, so they most likely will do some things different... but I will admit, I can't remember the last time I have seen my EGT1 at or above 1k. I will be keeping eye on it more though, especially when I pull my camper again, which I will do in a couple of weeks, but only for a short distance.

I have read your posts about the K100 as well as the FBC, and is what made me decide to run the FBC as well. And I figure it has been a mixture of more favorable driving habits for the 6.7, combined with the FBC and maybe the EDT, as well as the upgraded CAI and the CAC pipe... but until recently, I have not been getting the longer distances on my regens. Before, they were closer to the 500 mile mark, even with me manipulating the Auto Regen... but I do think that me simply not spending so much time driving in the city has played a big role in that. Despite putting more miles on my truck faster now, it has made me feel better about using the truck as my DD because now it actually has time to run and get hot instead of frequent, shorter runs that don't allow it to heat up and stay there for a while.

And yeah, I don't count on the soot load read out on the iDash... I much prefer to just rely on the truck's readout since it's what the truck will rely on. I may go out later today and mess with it some more, and if I do I will likely remove the soot load readout parameter and replace it with something else too...

I think next on my list needs to be the DPK kit, but now that they are using the different filters, I am kind of hesitant... and to be honest, I am still a little nervous about doing the install myself just because there is so much stuff to take off! Besides that, I have been thinking about the Mishimoto catch can... but I don't understand all of that well enough for me to pull that trigger yet. I still want some Centramatics too... I am enjoying the upgraded shocks and steering stabilizer though!

 

I do agree that Banks should have gotten back to you, as being an iDash owner already, quicker.

I may replace the soot load % PID with something else as well.

Just curious though, why don't you just use the truck's trans temp PID?

When I do more stop and go driving myself, it goes under 500 miles, but will stay above 400 miles usually.

I just thought of it but what I might do is pull my MAP sensor and see if my Max Mileage use has helped in the soot department... maybe I will see an orangish type tint on it like they see on the DPFs on trucks who use a FBC.

As to the S&S DPK, you could probably order from a dealer of theirs and get the 1st generation with the SNAPP filters of their 2nd gen kit. I have bought two of the Racor Parker SNAPP filters in white, the marine version, in the 2 micron rating with the closed body version (no drain).

I would install it myself but if I run into a problem or procrastinate and don't get it done the same day, my 4Runner is in the garage in minor stages of disassembly (great example of my procrastination skills) so that's why it's not in yet and why I'll have one of my 2 buddies help me out. But I want to buy a top side creeper to help them while they help me.

As to the catch can: I haven't read on a 6.7 here leaking from the top oil pan piece in awhile but I do believe that the Mishimoto oil catch can, that intercepts that crap prior to the PCV box, keeps the leak from forming as it seems the leak is pretty common. But I could be wrong. The only thing that sucks about the can in cold weather, is that you have drain it by 1k miles or you run the risk of it filling up and sucking that schitt back into the hoses and into the intake. Ask me how I know.

Another thing I want to upgrade is the original shocks and the steering wheel stabilizer as well.

 

I just like having the trans temp on the iDash so I don't have to scroll through screens on the trucks readout. On my main page I keep the ambient air temp, trans temp, coolant temp, oil temp, EGT1 and EGT 4 and the regen status... I'm debating what to change the 8th box to. It's nice just being able to glance down at that main page on the iDash and see all the temps in one place, and then I typically keep the trucks screen on the MPG trip 1 average screen that shows the time, miles, average mpg and miles to empty. I reset trip 1 at each fill up so I can see what things look like for each tank.

 

Whatever DPF back you get make sure it is stainless steel, aluminized will start to rust in a few years.

 

You guys could write a book LOL

 

Yeah I had an aluminized exhaust on my 96 and it rusted. I'm going with a Banks that's stainless...

Appreciate the heads up.

 

Sounds good. We all have our own methods for our madness huh??

I have to explore the option of multiple pages like how you have it set up.

I like how the 11 to 16 MYs has the oil and trans temps front on the gauge there.

 

Maybe we are Bone...

 

Came across this on phone feed.


While I like the new 20 plus front grill, IMO this looks even better.