When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
^^^ Not a fan of the bed step and the bumper step that is a copy of GM's HD trucks.
My future mods includes a Hammerhead rear bumper with a bumper step in it. I have to step on my hitch now to climb up into the bed. I think that bumper step will come in handy for me. At least they didn't copy GMs two piece tailgate design. I remember those goofy commercials touting it as the greatest thing EVER.
My truck didnt come with a bed step on the side so I bough one at this place. It tucks up nice and very handy to have I use it all the time. https://www.amp-research.com/
What your exhaust temp (EGT) is telling you about your diesel
I came across this in my phone feed. Very informative in my opinion. There were a few things he said that I found interesting. That essentially the engine is one big air pump and that the flow of air into the engine and out if the engine is paramount to keeping down the EGTs.
He mentions that there's no pyrometer on the exhaust manifolds on most newer vehicles. That it's hotter than the one after the turbo. So if I'm reading 1k degrees on EGT1, then it's probably 300 degrees hotter coming out of the engine into the exhaust manifolds.
He also talks about the flow of air being important to controlling EGTs. I already noted that EGT1 IMO was lower possibly due to the higher flow of air through the intake and into the turbo because of the higher flowing S&B intake system during an active regen.
I understand how he's talking about big truck engines but our 6.7s are just a smaller version of those so a diesel is a diesel.
The way I see it, adding that 4 inch DPF back exhaust and Mishimoto CAC will increase flow even further to lower the exhaust temps more coming out of the engine pre turbo.
Now I'm NOT saying the factory pieces don't work, that the engine is unreliable with them or that it was a poorly designed system, I'm just saying the engine will benefit from more air flowing through the whole system for longevity reasons as I will probably die before my truck leaves the family.
Anything I can do to increase efficiency, performance and reliability, I'm all in. I've always been in the "stock sucks" frame of mind but that is in no way meant as a insult to the folks running their rigs 110% stock, so please don't feel slighted. My handle here I got a long time ago, for obvious reasons.
My truck didnt come with a bed step on the side so I bough one at this place. It tucks up nice and very handy to have I use it all the time. https://www.amp-research.com/
Yep seen them before. I think those are AWESOME.
But I also got rear ended when I had the truck a year only on a hill close to home and the factory POS of a rear bumper did not protect the rear of my truck like the hitch I had in did (Thank God) or it would have been way worse.
I'm willing to pay the big bucks for the bumper so if some moron hits the rear of my truck, he effs up his vehicle, not mine.
I came across this in my phone feed. Very informative in my opinion. There were a few things he said that I found interesting. That essentially the engine is one big air pump and that the flow of air into the engine and out if the engine is paramount to keeping down the EGTs.
He mentions that there's no pyrometer on the exhaust manifolds on most newer vehicles. That it's hotter than the one after the turbo. So if I'm reading 1k degrees on EGT1, then it's probably 300 degrees hotter coming out of the engine into the exhaust manifolds.
He also talks about the flow of air being important to controlling EGTs. I already noted that EGT1 IMO was lower possibly due to the higher flow of air through the intake and into the turbo because of the higher flowing S&B intake system during an active regen.
I understand how he's talking about big truck engines but our 6.7s are just a smaller version of those so a diesel is a diesel.
The way I see it, adding that 4 inch DPF back exhaust and Mishimoto CAC will increase flow even further to lower the exhaust temps more coming out of the engine pre turbo.
Now I'm NOT saying the factory pieces don't work, that the engine is unreliable with them or that it was a poorly designed system, I'm just saying the engine will benefit from more air flowing through the whole system for longevity reasons as I will probably die before my truck leaves the family.
Anything I can do to increase efficiency, performance and reliability, I'm all in. I've always been in the "stock sucks" frame of mind but that is in no way meant as a insult to the folks running their rigs 110% stock, so please don't feel slighted. My handle here I got a long time ago, for obvious reasons.
The way I interpret his video was mostly for work trucks. Interesting, but limited application to our trucks with a few exceptions. In most of our trucks, I would have some concern about lowering exhaust temps that don't need to be lowered because that could cause an increase in soot production in the DPF.
The way I interpret his video was mostly for work trucks. Interesting, but limited application to our trucks with a few exceptions. In most of our trucks, I would have some concern about lowering exhaust temps that don't need to be lowered because that could cause an increase in soot production in the DPF.
Lower EGTs typically mean less soot, more air makes for a cleaner burn.
The way I interpret his video was mostly for work trucks. Interesting, but limited application to our trucks with a few exceptions. In most of our trucks, I would have some concern about lowering exhaust temps that don't need to be lowered because that could cause an increase in soot production in the DPF.
Like I've said, I'm no expert in this stuff. Just a guy who likes to read/watch videos and make some what educated guesses at this stuff.
As to this only being for work trucks like Class A big trucks, aren't our pickups designed for work like pulling a trailer full of horses or heavy equipment, or even a camper/5th wheel like tractors are made to pull trailers of different varieties?
What struck me about what he said was how a restriction in air flow, whether a plugged air filter or a plugged DPF, will cause EGTs to rise. So thinking logically that if fixing a restriction such aa a bad air filter or a plugged DPF will bring EGTs back down where they should be, then improving the flow of air into and out of the air pump (engine) should only improve the efficiency of the engine by lessening the resistance of air flow through the system as a whole.
At least that's the way I see it... I could be wrong because I wear a badge and gun, not a diesel mechanic.
Originally Posted by brokestroke
Lower EGTs typically mean less soot, more air makes for a cleaner burn.
Lower EGTs typically mean less soot, more air makes for a cleaner burn.
Interesting. I can certainly see more air into the combustion chamber helping as long as the fuel mixture isn't made too lean, but I was relating to when EGT1 and other EGT's are 500*+ the soot in the DPF slows or goes down with passive regen. So if a person reduces EGT's in our trucks by installing larger air filter and larger exhaust pipe, I was considering the possibility that soot may increase without EGT's being high enough to burn it.
Overkill, I did catch the reference to plugged air filters raising EGT's, A good maintenance promo. Not being a diesel tech, I am aware that the volume of air flow is controlled using the MAF sensor's readings. So I believe there is only so much air that will flow into the engine even with your larger filter, but a larger filter will likely extend the time you have unrestricted air flow.
Interesting. I can certainly see more air into the combustion chamber helping as long as the fuel mixture isn't made too lean, but I was relating to when EGT1 and other EGT's are 500*+ the soot in the DPF slows or goes down with passive regen. So if a person reduces EGT's in our trucks by installing larger air filter and larger exhaust pipe, I was considering the possibility that soot may increase without EGT's being high enough to burn it.
Overkill, I did catch the reference to plugged air filters raising EGT's, A good maintenance promo. Not being a diesel tech, I am aware that the volume of air flow is controlled using the MAF sensor's readings. So I believe there is only so much air that will flow into the engine even with your larger filter, but a larger filter will likely extend the time you have unrestricted air flow.
The fact that these aftermarket intake systems will flow more air and do allow more air into the system is IMO is proven because you have to disconnect the passenger side battery completely and the positive terminal driver side to allow the ECM to reset and learn the larger volume of air being read by the MAF sensor. Or there will be a CEL. When Banks says their intake (11 -16) improves flow by 26% and S&B by 36% (or "up to" I'm sure), that means more cubic feet per minute of air flow. I've heard that argument here before about an engine allowing only so much air in. Taking an amateur educated guess here, but allowing more air to flow into and out of (exhaust) the engine should be a good thing. Meaning that with less restriction of air flow, comes power (a small amount) that is gained back that was lost through the restrictions of air flow through the engine system. These aftermarket companies spend millions in research to improve the flow of air in the system that the OEMs don't. The OEMs use only what is needed to get what they deem as necessary when it comes to efficiency to get the power out of the engine that is required by the engineers.
As to soot, I remember looking into what it was and it's a product of incomplete combustion;
"a black powdery or flaky substance consisting largely of amorphous carbon, produced by the incomplete burning of organic matter."
I'm thinking that allowing more air into the engine should potentially allow for a more complete burn (combustion) of the fuel/air mixture.
I don't expect everyone to buy into this stuff that I do. I like posting this up for folks to look at and possibly look into if it floats their boat. I know there will always be the stock versus aftermarket conversation with each side stating their opinions on their choice. I just like sharing this stuff here in the forum.
My future mods includes a Hammerhead rear bumper with a bumper step in it. I have to step on my hitch now to climb up into the bed. I think that bumper step will come in handy for me. At least they didn't copy GMs two piece tailgate design. I remember those goofy commercials touting it as the greatest thing EVER.
I've seen some AM bumpers that have the step built in and those like the belong there unlike the factory GM bumpers.
Remember the Man Step video with our boy Howie. Also the Toyota attack is pretty funny as well at the end of the video.
The GM two piece tailgate is a bad design especially if you leave a hitch on your truck (which I do) and allows for an opportunity for the tailgate to hit the hitch, plus it's simply hideous looking. It also had the Man Step DNA feature so I guess at some point it's considered acceptable to copy the competition with your spin version
The GM two piece tailgate is a bad design especially if you leave a hitch on your truck (which I do) and allows for an opportunity for the tailgate to hit the hitch, plus it's simply hideous looking. It also had the Man Step DNA feature so I guess at some point it's considered acceptable to copy the competition with your spin version
I took this not long after you posted that up Troy. I couldn't resist... Nah I'll keep my Ford and the old school tail gate.
I changed the oil in my truck today. While I was waiting for the oil to drain, also removed and drained the FS2500 bypass filter as well, I installed the new air tube S&B sent me. The screws went in like they were supposed to. That made me happy as my stomach didn't drop like it did when I first tried screwing in the screw that didn't go in installation day.
The original tube is on top and replacement on bottom.
This is the original tube.
The replacement tube. This tube looks like it come out much better than the original tube shipped with the kit.
MAF sensor installed and good to go.
Not that i need it here in NY, but i installed the S&B CARB EO sticker that i didn't install when I first installed the intake.
Next item to be updated will be the DPF exhaust pipe.
Old school tailgates rule. I will have to admit when I purchased my truck it had the man step and I thought it was a gimmick, but I found out quickly it's actually a nice feature to get into the bed.
