When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dave,
I read in another thread that you might be interested in a 5" DPF back exhaust. Here's one Epic installed of a 5" Dynomax some years ago but probably is still available.
Dave,
I read in another thread that you might be interested in a 5" DPF back exhaust. Here's one Epic installed of a 5" Dynomax some years ago but probably is still available.
Thanks Troy. Appreciate that. I'll watch it when I get a chance.
Originally Posted by bobcat67
I wonder if that exhaust would work on the 2015-16 with the sensor in the rear over axle part
They make them for the 11 to 14s that DID NOT have a EGT sensor in the tailpipe but the 15-16s did. These are DPF back tailpipes. There are many different brands. As long as it's for MY 15 to 16, it will have the threaded insert for EGT4.
I installed these this past Sunday when it was 80 degrees outside, today was 35 and snow but hey it's Buffalo, but tonight was the first night I got to use them in the dark.
All I have to say is Holy ****! These **** ers are bright.
They are perfect for folks who run the unlit back country roads where the deer roam. They blow the OEM fog lights out of the water.
I had only one person flash me so I'll have to see if I have to adjust them further. But these put light EXACTLY where you need it to see deer in the ditches and out in the fields close to the road to see them before you pass them to be aware. Great set of lights for sure.
Here's a picture coming down the hill before home. I
will take some more and better pics when I get a chance.
Dave,
I read in another thread that you might be interested in a 5" DPF back exhaust. Here's one Epic installed of a 5" Dynomax some years ago but probably is still available.
Like he says in the end of the video, "something different, not the same as everyone else's." That's why I took of the 4x4 decals off the bed. I had the aftermarket black 6.7 badges on but then de-badged the truck.
MORIMOTO H13 2STROKE 3.0 LED LIGHT BULBS WITH LOW & HIGH BEAMS 5700K
If I were to get a set of H13 replacement LED bulbs for my truck, these would probably be it. These are different than the rest as they pull in cool air from behind and exhaust the hot air into the housing that helps to keep the headlight assembly free of ice and snow. I'd like them in 5000K which is a more whiter light but 5700K wavelength it would have to be. But they are just on the radar for now as I have other things in mind. I'm sharing for FYI.
They have a lifetime warranty and from the company website, produce 1860 lumens per bulb.
BENCHMARK: Over the course of the last year, the Society of Automotive Engineers along with Tier 1 and Tier 2 suppliers have been carving out a new standard that defines what an industry-accepted LED headlight bulb would look like. While they have been hard at work creating what's now known as SAE J3145: Morimoto was hard at work taking notes and more importantly; developing a product in parallel. While LED bulbs still aren't DOT approved for use in headlights in the states-- if and when the time comes, the new 2Stroke 3.0 is already built according to the right recipe. For now, foreign markets and fog light users can enjoy the best LED headlight bulb available today!
SUPERIOR BEAM QUALITY: The advanced PCB technology at the core of the 2Stroke 3.0 sets a new industry benchmark emission surface interval of just 2.4mm total. The PCB core itself is just 1.0mm thick. The dielectric layer: 300um. The circuit pattern: 140um, and the Philips Lumileds Luxeon Z LED chips: just .59mm each. Paired with the tight light-emitting surface area of the LEDs: this adds up to a total cubic volume of 4.46mm. At the end of the day, no LED bulb in the world more closely simulates the filament size of an incandescent bulb more accurately than the Morimoto 2Stroke 3.0--and for those in the know, this is critical when it comes to proper beam distribution.
OPTIMIZED FOCAL LENGTH: Each size in the 2Stroke 3.0 lineup has been painstakingly optimized for proper output in its designated application. The critical reference distance has been calculated based on the geometry of the bulb base and the footprint of the Osram HKL emitter. To ensure consistency, special tools were designed to quality-control the accuracy of each bulb as it comes off the production line. Most other LED light bulbs on the market use a 'set it and forget it' reference distance across all sizes in the series, which is not the case here.
360 DEGREES OF ROTATION: The 2Stroke 3.0 LED bulbs feature a fully adjustable base. In order to fully utilize the optical facets in any reflector or projector: The light emitting diodes must face the 3-o-clock and 9-o-clock positions. Since no single standard exists across different headlight and fog light assemblies, all bulbs in the 2Stroke 3.0 range are fully adjustable. A geared step rotational adjuster mechanism is installed for all bulbs which twist-to-lock, offering adjustability in 15-degree intervals. An omni-adjustable rotation mechanism is utilized on all bulbs that are press-fit or clip into the housing.
THERMAL MANAGEMENT: Once the bulb is installed, the high-speed fan contained within is completely sealed, making the 2Stroke 3.0 the first actively cooled LED bulb with a fan that's not susceptible to outside elements. Their unique internal circulation cooling system uses a 12,000-rpm cyclone fan to suck cool air into the body of the bulb and blow warm air out, back into the housing. On the intake side, cold air is sucked in past the sidewall of the PCB to exchange heat and is blown out the opposite side of the bulb. This effectively cools the bulb while warming the ambient temperature inside of the housing, increasing resistance to snow/ice buildup on the lens during the winter months. The cooling system on the 2Stroke 3.0 not only does it's job to protect the longevity of the bulb, but serves up a bad-weather benefit not found elsewhere.
There has been discussion here before if the disaster prevention kits aka DPK kits actually work or not. S&S Diesel Motorsport was the first to come up with this due to the sensitivity of the Bosch CP4.2 HPFPs to contaminants in ULSD. When S&S first came out with their kit, the bypass was set up too close to the pump and the failure debris back fed into the pump case causing the debris to get into the lines and the injectors. Plus you had to cut into the factory metal lines, potentially introducing contamination into the lines by cutting them. That's when they figured that out, that the bypass line was too short or close to the pump, which prevented the kit from saving the lines and injectors.
I bought the first Gen 2 kit, the 2.0 kit that has the Parker Racor SNAPP filters. It's still not installed though. The new kit contains a 25 inch bypass line which prevents the pump from being back fed by contaminated fuel because of the longer hose. Here's the instructions for the SNAPP filter kit:
They are having a hard time getting Parker Racor to supply them with the black SNAPP filters so they came up with the Gen 2.1 kit using the new filter head and Donaldson filter. But I just bought the non drain filters in white, the marine models. I don't give a schitt about the color. You can find the SNAPP filters but they will be in white IF you want the housing with NO drain. They must have been manufacturing the non drain filters in black for S&S, because you can't find a them in their catalog in black in a NON DRAIN filter.
So you go from a 2 micron water separating SNAPP filter to a 9 micron Donaldson P550943 filter. You can find the SNAPPs for under 30 dollars, like 24 bucks I think I paid. I'll have to check That.
The main task of both kits is to supply the CP4 case and the metering unit/plungers independently with clean, filtered fuel, and to reroute case fuel back to the tank. There are two major improvements in how the Gen2.1 kit accomplishes it. The Gen2.1 fuel supply is split off into two separate lines 25 inches from the CP4, which will eliminate the chance of contaminated case fuel back-feeding into the clean fuel supply line. The original bypass kit splits off within an inch of the pump, and is more susceptible to debris back-feeding, if the CP4 failure produces enough debris to clog the fuel return system. The other improvement is what happens to the debris when it exits the pump case. The Gen2.1 kit features a billet return filter head that accepts a readily-available Donaldson P550943 spin-on fuel filter which prevents debris from reaching the tank, fuel lines, and supply pump. Previously, unfortunate victims of a CP4 failure, with the good fortune of having an original bypass kit installed, would still need to drop the tank and deal with all of the debris created by the failed CP4.
With this new kit, will the lines and injectors be saved?? I don't know but apparently S&S admitted the 1st gen kit's downfall and redesigned it to address that.
For informational purpose only.
Last edited by Overkill2; Apr 28, 2022 at 09:01 PM.
Reason: add to post
I like the SNAPP filters. I like that I can see the media and if there is any “glitter” on it. Personally I think the billet filter head is a downgrade.
If the pump fails, one should be able to replace it without needing to replace any lines and injectors. That’s the idea anyway.
