https://www.marketwatch.com/story/po...ls-11656351518



Just came across my feed. I remember reading on here about guys using Spartan tunes. These guys got hammered by the Feds.

I recently read about Korey Willis from PPEI who got crushed by the EPA as well.

In these modern times, you have to know the friend of a friend of a small shop to get deleted. No other way now that they are (EPA) aggressively going after the old tune writers.

I'm not celebrating this just reporting it to the masses.

Plus what this shows is there will be zero tune software support from the actual guys who wrote the tunes.

 

If I am not mistaken, the non enclosed CAI is an option for the 22 MY's too from S&B. I wanted the enclosed version though, and went back and forth on whether or not to install the side plug because this just opens up for more "hot" air. When I installed mine I chose not to install the side plug, but after the fact is when I started wondering if the plug could be installed from the inside rather than the outside... I figure it may be worth plugging up during the hotter, summer months, and unplugging it during the cooler months... I dunno... what's your thoughts on that?

And I think I am going to order a sock, just to keep all the bugs and junk out of the filter. I just wonder how much it will hinder the air flow though... It would definitely be so much easier to clean though. I think I am going to place an order for the sock and another dry filter sometime though just to take advantage of the free shipping... also this will give me a dry and an oiled filter as back up.

That's cool that they are sending you another tube. As much as they have contacted me, and based on the customer service feedback I have read about (or heard about on YT) I figured they would take care of you. And I know you have that one all zip tied up, but what about replacing that one with the new one and having that one as back up? Saying that though, I (in my limited experience) haven't read anything about these tubes failing... just the CAC pipes...

 

Just had a brainstorm...

You are RIGHT. I am going to pull that tube I have in now and replace it with the new one I will receive.

What I'm going to do is fill that defective threaded insert with JB Weld type epoxy. I have parts A and B of a different type (in plastic containers) in my garage now. I forget the name brand. I also happen to have an 8/32" drill and tap set. What I'm thinking I may do is possibly drill the hole out with the next larger size up drill bit, then fill up with epoxy to then drill and tap.
Hmm...

 

 

Thanks fritz. I'm going to check this stuff out.

@chadstickpoindexter let me know what you think of that sock. Thanks

 

S&B's response why they made a open filter intake -- because customers wanted it. But they did address the elephant in the room... heat from the engine. Maybe they could call Scotty and let him know how they did without triggering a CEL.


EDIT

tried to add a different video link here -- meanwhile enjoy watching Katie. I'll make a new post.

 

 

i used that thread repair kit a few times and if you follow the directions exactly it works….critical step is to prep the damaged threads with a though cleaning and complete dry.

 

Thanks Fritz. Appreciate the heads up buddy.

 

Found Blackstone's email when I got home from work today. It contains the Virgin sample and the 6R140 sample. So far I don't see the transfer case sample but will post up when I get it.

I didn't realize that I replaced the oil with only 24.5k miles Or else I would have waited until 30k miles. I had the mileage written down but don't have all the info in one place or rather notebook as I should.

 

I have no real idea what I was looking at but it did appear that you could keep going on the fluid and not change it for a longer period of time. Interesting what a new sample looked like from one with about 25,000 miles.

 

Yes, that's what I'm thinking also Bone. There's no doubt I will go out more on this current run. Probably to 35k miles like they said.

If I do decide to go with that B&M pan, and if I do probably next year, I'd either buy a cheap drain pan or have to really clean one of my oil drain pans really well so I could dump the fluid back into the trans.

It's really weird how the virgin sample and the used sample compared...

 

 

Nobody sells this stuff locally, I've been calling, and the reviews on Amazon, the most recent ones, have not been good because it sounds like the kits being sold are old as eff.

Not a lot of options on Amazon either. They want 50 to 60 bucks for these kits. I'm thinking it's no longer made and its NOS.

I'm going to look into Permatex. But I can always get a heli coil kit cheaper than what Amazon wants for a Loctite kit. It just doesn't seem to be out there which would mean to me it's no longer made.

 

you can probably simulate how this kit works.

there is a metal set type of compound that goes into the cleaned out and preped damaged threads . I used a tooth pick to apply. The only caution is that the idea is to cover the thread area lightly and not fill the hole. Filling the hole will prevent the bolt from being inserted.

the second componet is the y damaged bolt clean and lube with the secret sauce lube paste. The lube past prevents the metal set type compound from bonding to the bolt.

the idea is once the metal set hardens, it’s bonded to the bad thread side and the hood threads on the bolt cuts the thread path into the metal set stuff while at the same time the lube past prevents the hood bolt threads from bonding.

at a certain point the bolt gets removed and you let the metal set cure. The retained thread pattern in the metal set becomes the new threads.

you wipe off the lube past from the bolt and after full cure, you can even torque the bolt.


sure a spring type insert will work if you want to drill out the bad hole and go thru that process. You would probally want to use some type of drill stop.