I'll post install pics and tips later but I'm a little pissed off right now.

Intake is in but had to do some government work aka afro engineering to drive my truck to my second front.

The front threaded insert was jacked up and the second screw provided with the kit would not thread in.

But due to my AE degree, I overcame that obstacle.


Used two cable ties to hold the right side down. Then placed duct tape over the cable ties. No CELs.

As to the intake, truck sounds louder under acceleration -- louder intake noise because she's getting more air. No CELs. It's important to disconnect the passenger side battery (both) and the driver's side negative connector for at least 2 hours so the ECM learns the new air intake system.

Called customer service. She sent out an email to me quick. She asked if I used the old T20 screws from the stock air tube mass air sensor mount, I DID NOT, but I'm sure they have to ask. I had the old system on the tailgate. When I got to the part where I needed to remove the mass air sensor from the old tube, once out, I screwed the screws back into the holes for safe keeping as I'm saving the old intake.

Tomorrow I'll take some pics and take a video if me attempting to screw the provided screw down also.

They had better make this RIGHT.

 

Dang, that sucks to hear! Everything on mine went together like butter... I bet they will make it right though.

 

Yeah I hope so...

 

This is for you Chad. That plug will fit in that hole on the fender side from the inside... It moves around a little but seals it up fine.

 

This used to drive me nuts when I replaced the air filter... That clamp was so close to the radiator support. Not a problem anymore.



The two boxes side by side.



When i popped out the airbox, i found the wire harness covered in salt.



This connector is also there. It has a dummy connector on it to keep it clean.





Sprayed Carwell Products oil on it and Fluid Film to keep it corrosion free.



The dummy connector...



The wire harness after being douched down. Sprayed extra Carwell oil in the fender where the harness was.








Welcome to the world of overkill. I've had this since the 90s after i bought my 96 F250. Put some on the rubber piece that goes on the intake hole from the factory. That had some salt on it also.






I used this, very little, on the silicone gasket where the air tube slides into the box to help lube it and worked great to make it easier for the tube to pop through the gasket.



I highly recommend zip tying the passenger side positive terminal up and out of the way prior to attempting to line up the factory screw through the rubber washer they provide to the threaded clip. Trust me... Just do it. I wasted a lot of time effing with it before I realized that zip tying the terminal up and out of the way will make it a lot EASIER. Believe me.



Its still a pain but way more room.



Another thing, align the foam gasket up the correct way on the mass air sensor mount.









Real life solutions when the SHTF... And 100 MPH tape...


I'm glad my Dad handed down the Jack of all trades thing to me... Thanks Dad... Miss you buddy.


I believe the truck is a different beast with that less restrictive air intake on. I'm not saying it added gobs of power, I just think if you make it easier for a big air pump (our 6.7 engine) to pump air by having a less restrictive air intake, you have some power (a little) back that you may have lost due the restrictive factory air intake.

It sounds louder... I like it. Now, just to take care of this with S&B and get a new air tube with TWO good threaded inserts...

EDIT

I just want to add that I went with a an oiled filter as that's what Banks recommended for trucks that only drive the roads -- the filter will last longer than the dry filter.

 

This is the one modification that I have held off on. Just not 100% sold on it providing gains over stock. Have been waiting to see if the modified turbo, tuning, etc is enough to pull the OEM filter minder in. So far it hasn't given me any troubles/lack of flow, etc. Maybe down the road I will get one but like the fact that an OEM filter can be bought anywhere.

 

That’s a good tip on using the lube around the rubber seal on the lid. Once it gets dirty it gets tougher to take off. I’m going to see if I can pick something up to lube it up this weekend when I take it off and blow my filter out.

I am also thinking about picking up a sock to put over mine. The front side is pretty dirty!

 

Depending on the MY. OEM filters have been tough to find for 22’s. It was part of the reason I changed over… I haven’t noticed any issues with getting filters from S&B.

 

Can't believe people still buy into the "Cold" air intakes. They were designed for racing engines where a lot of parts are replaced after each race.

 

I can't lie, I agree with you. Some people just like spending money on modifications that are not necessary or return very little on their investment. That's just my opinion take it for what it is.

 

No worries man...

I go along with what Gale Banks says because the guy has been building engines for a real long time. He's the one I believe who said the internal combustion engine is basically a big air pump.

The Banks CAI intake system for my truck flows 26% more than the stock air intake. The S&B is 36%. To me, that means the engine can move air with less restriction. I'm not knocking the stock intake and I'm not saying it doesn't work, but IMO I can do better with S&B.

The engine sounds different now... A little louder. It also feels a little stronger under hard acceleration.

My next mod will be a 4 inch DPF back exhaust. Not looking for sound as I know the DPF kills the turbo sound but again, more flow out. I'll go with a Banks single exhaust tip just to be different. I can't stand the stock tail pipe. Plus I'll look like a gas truck because I took off the 6.7 badges. I like flying under The radar but that's just me.

I'll give you another example of improving air flow that frees up more power is an aftermarket CAC. On my list of mods is an Mishimoto CAC. It flows 22% more than the stock intercooler. Is it adding 40 more lb ft. of torque? (From their website) No. It frees that up by flowing more freely than stock.

So if an engineer like Gale thinks that a free flowing CAI will help the engine, then I'm going to agree. But I get it, different strokes for different folks. I'll have a dry filter as an extra when I'm cleaning the oiled filter. I may even buy another oiled filter to have as an extra just in case.

Good luck with your truck.

 

You do you bro. All good... Opinions are like @$$ wholes.

Stock air intakes are designed for the masses. They keep the air intake quiet. I definitely have a louder air induction noise now.

And some people don't like emissions so they delete their trucks because they don't like dealing with DEF. To each their own.

I've seen that video before. I've seen quite a few of Scotty's vids and he shows a cheap design with a cheap filter NOT enclosed by an air box like the Banks, S&B and others so the filter is sucking the hot air from under the hood. The S&B I bought does not.

I disconnected my batteries for a minimum of two hours, probably so the ECM can learn the new air flow through the sensor, and DID NOT have a CEL.

But trust me, with my overkill/not afraid to mod my truck attitude, I'm used to people telling me what I shouldn't be doing to my truck.

 

All Super Duties come with a CAI as stock... that's a Ford thing. Maybe let them know?

Anyway, I did choose to "upgrade" mine with the S&B also. Why? Because I wanted too and it's my money. But also, OEM filters for 22 MY are tough (sure, but not impossible) to get. It doesn't seem to be a problem getting filters from S&B, and there's not much difference in price if you factor in shipping. Besides this, I thought it looks better, and then yeah, I don't imagine more air flow can hurt the truck... but I do like the way the truck sounds now much better too!

 

That video he posted does not even apply to our trucks because what the video shows is a cheap POS non-engineered "cold" air intake that places the filter under the hood so it sucks all the hot air from under the hood.

The S&B and Banks reuses the rubber piece that goes on the bottom of the air box so it meets the factory piece of plastic that feeds the stock box the fresh "cold" air... Just like the factory designed.

Well S&B does have an huge open filter system for our trucks, the 11 to 16 MYs, not sure of the newer trucks but that was only due to customer demands for them to offer that as I remember the intro video when they first came out. I am totally against doing that as all you are doing is sucking in hot, under hood air which reduces power. But that doesn't stop some deleted guys from doing it because I've seen it on You Tube.

 

Yeah that Teflon goop made that tube slide in like butter.

If you get a sock, let me know what you think.

Also, S&B are shipping out a new air tube with hardware kit for the mass air sensor. I told them about how when I was trying to get the screw started, I just about crushed the end of the gasket.

I think I'm just going to run the tube as is and have that second air tube for a back up. I'm getting no CELs and have no problems. I replaced the cable ties with another set and it's much more solid than the first time I did it.