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Overkill - towed the camper to Cabelas in Tridelphia, WV. Ambient was 85. Ford Forced regen at 457 miles. EGT4 max was 1100. Seems the Banks Ram Air and 5” monster exhaust let Betty White breathe a bit better. No interest in weight loss. 13-15mpg towing I’m happy with that
sorry for cutting in
any sound changes with the intake and back exhuast?
is the miles between regens changed? More air should be a leaner burn and less soot???
any sound changes with the intake and back exhuast?
is the miles between regens changed? More air should be a leaner burn and less soot???
All I installed was the S&B intake. I never purchased a DPF back exhaust... as of yet. Just prior to taking my truck into the dealer for some work, my regen cycle changed. It actually dropped from it's 475 to 500 miles to under 500 miles. I still get my fuel from the same place and haven't changed up. I'm still running K100D+ and Max Mileage FBC. I'm thinking that maybe the distributor they get their fuel from has changed... I don't know. But since running the Max Mileage, I have noticed the truck soot load gauge passively reduce down 5 points twice since using it.
egt temps rarely get above 600. I think you need plus 800 to passive regen.
i might have been clobbers by the last reflash.
I have seen passive regens on my iDash with EGT4 in the high 400s, low 500s. In the 6.7 manual, I believe it states you will get passive regens at 572 deg F. Do you drive long enough to have sustained EGT4 temps in the 500s? I never see passive regens coming into work as the altitude drops. But when I'm driving south and it climbs, I'll see small amounts of passive regens but usually not enough to trigger a reduction of 5% on the truck soot load PID.
egt temps rarely get above 600. I think you need plus 800 to passive regen.
i might have been clobbers by the last reflash.
Okay... I don't think there's anything fishy about your truck fritz. From your thread here, in your own words:
"99% of my driving is local metro traffic. Stop and go every 1/8 of a mile or so. Go for 2 minutes, red light idle for 3 minutes, etc. Speed limit 25 mph."
I'm not busting your b@lls, but I just think the conditions of your daily driving is keeping the active regen cycles short due to the lack of any non-stop driving.
I've noticed it for me that when I don't go into work (on the 65 mph expressway) and I do more lower speed driving and more stop and go, the miles between regens drop down.
Since you do so much stop and go driving in low speed conditions, it isn't allowing the truck to get hot enough for you to get ANY passive regeneration.
Last edited by Overkill2; Aug 24, 2022 at 02:32 PM.
Reason: Correct post
Pretty impressive mileage amount for a short build up to FULL DPF
Okay so I mentioned in this thread, that I had a short active regen (8 miles) end with the soot load total dropping from 100% to 70%. I dropped a buddy off after a concert and put truck in park in driveway which ended the regen. Said regen was 390 miles out from the last one. That's low for my truck which makes me think it may have been the fuel that changed as I have not changed where I fuel up.
Anyways, I left the house early this morning in anticipation of the truck going into regen because she was at 95%. I left the house with 94062 miles at 95%. It took to 94089 miles to hit FULL. I'm impressed that the truck went a full 300 miles to get the soot load to go from 70% to 100%. The iDash did indicate some passive regeneration as EGT4 prior to the regen was in the 600s but it wasn't enough for the truck PID to drop 5%. It was a 23 mile regen and the truck got down to 25%. I won't be surprised if when I get back into the truck, she's at 20%. It's been doing that now quite often. I'll post pics of the iDash with EGT temps later as I took a few.
Okay... I don't think there's anything fishy about your truck fritz. From your thread here, in your own words:
"99% of my driving is local metro traffic. Stop and go every 1/8 of a mile or so. Go for 2 minutes, red light idle for 3 minutes, etc. Speed limit 25 mph."
I'm not busting your b@lls, but I just think the conditions of your daily driving is keeping the active regen cycles short due to the lack of any non-stop driving.
I've noticed it for me that when I don't go into work (on the 65 mph expressway) and I do more lower speed driving and more stop and go, the miles between regens drop down.
Since you do so much stop and go driving in low speed conditions, it isn't allowing the truck to get hot enough for you to get ANY passive regeneration.
once in a blue moon I might take an hour trip….but even at 70mph, my rpms are just short of 1900 rpm.
I don’t see the high egt temps folks are reporting…..mainly straight and level……no mountain roads.
once in a blue moon I might take an hour trip….but even at 70mph, my rpms are just short of 1900 rpm.
I don’t see the high egt temps folks are reporting…..mainly straight and level……no mountain roads.
From today's drive prior the regen...
EGT4 climbed some more after the pic was taken... Almost got to the mid 600s.
Damn thing took forever to go "FULL."
Temps during regen
That's where you have the problem... Level roads with no hills to climb. My soot load always climbs faster (on the iDash) when I'm driving in to work because it's down hill.
maybe I-78 west from Nj to pa. That’s pretty much up hill for about an hour.
I'm telling you Fritz, if you took that route more often because you had to, as in daily on the way to work or home, you wouldn't have any issues with short regen cycles. Guys like us who don't haul any load or pull a trailer need to have some altitude work our engines so they get hot and keep the emissions hot and flowing, and the regens out where they belong.
I forgot to mention but the ambient air temps were at 61 degrees, that's what the truck said, when that pre regen pic was taken with EGT4 in the 600s.
If you do this, post up here with your observations.
Make sure you sand smooth metal w 60 grit sandpaper for un-rusted metal for Chassis Saver
Okay so I learned my lesson here. When it comes to new smooth metal, with no rust present, use 50 to 60 grit sandpaper as per their instructions to give the metal enough scuff for the paint to hold to.
I didn't do that and just used 150 grit sandpaper that they called for (150 to 180 grit) for solid previously painted surfaces as I sanded over the metal where the bubbles were under the fender flare.
A few days ago or so, I was showing my neighbor the job I did when I noticed bubbles in the paint over the rear wheel well. It had rained previously plus I took the truck through the car wash so when I pushed those bubbles that weren't previously there, water came out...
Today I ended up cutting into the bubbles and peeling them back with my Hogue knife. The paint bonded well with the painted surfaces I sanded with 150 grit but did not bond with the metal under the bubbles.
Here's an idea of what the metal under the bubbles looked like before sanding.
You can see the circular spot where the bubble was. There were also smaller ones there as well. Its on the outside of the wheel well to the left. This spot was pretty good. I ended up scrapping it with my knife and most of the paint bonded well. So there was only a new small spot to re-coat with paint there.
Don't bother buying one of these. The sponge flexes and does not dig in the same as the regular old sandpaper does, trust me. Just wasted 7 bucks.
This is pre sanding... After I scrapped the paint off.
Close up pre sanding...
Pre sanding....
Larger part hit with 60 grit sandpaper.. As was the right part of the bare metal above it. The left circular part was not yet. Notice the roughened surface of the bare metal. This is required for Chassis Saver to bond with smooth, un-rusted metal.
All bare metal sanded with 60 grit and ready for paint. I did sand the solid paint around the bare metal with 150 grit some more though prior to painting.
