I found this site when looking into the 6R140 filters and if it had any revisions when it came to the filter gasket/o-ring at the top.

https://www.transmissionpartsdistrib...-bc3z-7a098-b/

FORD LINCOLN

6R140

'11+ 6-SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:

FILTER

• ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT
• FITS BOTH GAS & DIESEL MODELS

• FITS 6R140 EQUIPPED FORD:
• F-150 '12-'17 6.2L
• F-250 & F-350 SUPER DUTY '11-'17 6.2L, 6.7L
• FITS 6R140 EQUIPPED LINCOLN:
• NAVIGATOR '11 5.0L

• ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT 6R140 FILTER
• FORD BC3Z-7A098-B

Anyways, I find it interesting that lighter duty applications used the same transmission. I'm wondering if any internal upgrades were made for our 6.7 application? Just thinking out loud is all.

 

Something's not right... F-150 '12-'17 6.2L The F150 didn't have a 6.2 in the aluminum body trucks starting in '15 MY and although I don't know much about the Lincoln Navigator, I looked up engine options for that year and came up with the 5.4 so I seriously doubt any half ton truck/SUV used the 6R140 medium duty transmission.

 

The 6.2 liter in the F150 sounded weird for sure. And that's why I posted up. Thanks Troy.

 

IIRC, the 6.2 was the original Raptor engine, and optional in the Limited

 

According to Wikipedia here, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_R...T_Raptor;_2010)

First generation (SVT Raptor; 2010)[edit]

First generation (P415)

6.2 L Boss V8 Transmission 6-speed 6R80 automatic Dimensions Wheelbase SuperCab: 133.3 in (3,390 mm)For the 2010 model year, Ford SVT introduced the F-150 SVT Raptor, its second vehicle derived from the Ford F-150. In notable contrast to the on-road capability of the 1993-2004 SVT Lightning, the SVT Raptor was optimized for off-road performance, similar to a desert racing vehicle. "Raptor" was initially the vehicle's placeholder nickname during development, with Ford having to come to an arrangement with Mosler for the Raptor name rights.[1]

The first production Raptor, molten orange with the digital mud graphic, sold at auction for $130,000 with all proceeds above the MSRP going to charity. The race version, the F-150 SVT Raptor R, was built for the Baja 1000 races. It uses a 6.2 L V8 engine rated at 500 hp (370 kW).[2]



It used a 6R series transmission but no idea if that 6R80 used the same trans filter or not.

Good call Dave.

 

The 5.4 was the original Raptor engine.

 

Don't know if this true or not, but it's in that Wiki link.

Powertrain[edit]

For 2010, the standard engine was a 5.4L V8 with 320 hp and 390 lb-ft of torque, while an optional 6.2L V8 (shared with the Super Duty) churned out 411 hp and 434 lb-ft.[4][3][7][10] Both engines were paired with a 6-speed automatic transmission.[7] For 2011, the 5.4L engine was dropped from the F-Series, leaving the 6.2L V8 as the only engine offering.

 

I have expressed my thoughts on deletes and if anyone here has paid attention, then people should know that I am not against them.

With that said though, a lot of folks think that just because a truck is deleted, that there will be zero problems. I present this as I think it is interesting as it's from someone who is a lot smarter than myself and who knows big truck diesel engines. I'm just presenting this here for information only.

https://pittsburghpower.com/blogs/ne...-your-own-risk

I have been using that Max Mileage and think it definitely has improved my regeneration cycles by reducing the time (mileage) it takes to complete them. I will be posting up here soon on a few regens that I thought were interesting.

There is a million mile deleted truck on You Tube but there was also a very close to a million mile stock truck as well.

 

I think I am sold on the idea of installing a extra capacity aftermarket pan on my truck's 6R140. It's funny but my 1996 F250 had a B&M extra capacity pan on the E4OD transmission.

So I first settled on the ATS deep pan as it has an extender with it that drops the filter down because of the extra 8 quarts. Plus the drain plug is the lowest point for draining. But then I thought, I don't think the trans needs an extra EIGHT quarts. That's a lot.

Then I came across the B&M and it held an extra 3.67 quarts. More reasonable IMO. It also has a drain which appears to be right at the very bottom for a complete drain of the pan. What I liked about it also was that it was the only pan that came with an extender, like the ATS, but also has longer trans filter bolts with metal spacers. Seems to be a better thought out kit to me.

Since the extra capacity in the E4OD fluid circuit, amongst other things as well, helped make my E4OD last pushing a lot of lake effect snow, well... it's time I overkill my 6R140. Like I said, it's what I do.

I would also epoxy those high temp rare earth magnets to the bottom as well.

This probably won't happen for awhile but stayed tuned. I have other things to install before this gets done.

https://www.holley.com/products/driv...rd/parts/71397




I'm thinking I like the black better than the all natural aluminum version pan.





Definitely can see some good spots to epoxy those magnets at...



Hardware kit... like I said, a well designed kit.

EDIT

Reading over the instructions, this pan retains the factory donut magnet for those who don't modify stuff like I do.

Or maybe I'll save some $$$ and just get the natural aluminum pan.

 

This has also been on my watch list for a few years now...


BD Diesel's

PRESSURELOC

PART # 1031320
TRANSMISSION PRESSURE CONTROLLER FORD 6.7L POWER STROKE 6R140 2011-2019

FEATURES

• 76% more theoretical holding power
• Delivers up to 300psi line pressure at WOT
• Only active when boost over 15psi, unlike solenoid foolers or plugs which are active all the time
• Does not create parasitic load or extra heat when inactive
• No transmission relearn required
• Installs in under an hour

I like that it only works for boosted situations over 15 psi and it's not always on like their replacement solenoid that is an alternative solution to this.

When you are hammering the throttle, I don't think you want a lot of slippage with the stock lower holding pressure to create more heat and more wear particles in the fluid.



https://us.bddiesel.com/products/6r1...30073632948288

 

I am also in the market for one of these. This is what she...errr, it looks like.



Disregard the truck.


I'll post up when I decide which one I go with.

 

Another great shot of the topside creeper I like...

 

I pulled the trigger last week for the S&B intake.

It came in yesterday. I took it out of the box to take some pics.

Quality parts to be sure. All I know is that the air filter is huge as is the intake box itself. The inside of the box is very smooth. Thick material whatever it is.

Here goes...


This is one big *** filter. I ordered a dry filter to use when it comes time to clean and re-oil this one. I also ordered the cleaning kit for this filter but they haven't come in yet.












Here's the intake box itself. It's massive.
















Intake tube...



The filter end...



Quality stainless steel worm clamps with stainless steel screws....



The screw less gasket for the plexiglass top cover for the box. Thick quality stuff.



The cover for the fender side extra air intake hole... I'm thinking I'm going to run mine without this cover on. Once again, a super thick, quality molded piece.




Been working like a dog... Tired as ****. But hopefully will install this tomorrow, my first regular day off. Then will take more pics during installation.

 

Nice! Glad to see you went with the S&B CAI! I have been loving mine... well, the little extra growl that I can hear from it. I am currently running the dry filter and have the oiled filter for back up. I currently have about 4500 miles on mine and it's starting to get dirty.. I was wondering if I should take it off next weekend when I change my oil and just try to clean it up a little... the front side that is directly in front of the air intake is pretty dirty, but the rest of it isn't bad. I am in an area with a lot of dust though... I also ended up leaving the side intake cover off so there is more air flow coming in... I wonder if it can be installed from inside the box... this would make it a lot more convenient to remove or install the side cover without having to actually pull the entire box out...

Also, FWIW, I have almost went through about 2/3 bottle of the FBC... I think it is helping. Granted, my driving is much more appropriate now for a more complete combustion and better performance overall for the truck... I have been driving 28 miles one way to work at 55-58 mph, so about 60 miles per day, plus often trips to Des Moines, so I will run about 70-72 mph down I80. Anyway, I have been keeping my Auto Regen turned off and turning it back on when the truck says it's almost full. The last 2 times I have regened I started it when the truck read 95%, and after it completed my iDash reported something over 800 miles, and the last time (a few days ago) it reported 900 miles! Also, the last tank of fuel I filled up I hand calculated at 20.54 mpg, my highest yet! So, I think my driving habits are making a big difference, but 900 mile regens are pretty hefty for not towing, and I would imagine the FBC has some influence on that... maybe I am wrong...

 

You new truck guys and your auto-regen disable SUCK. 😂 I'm just envious is all.

I've got the batteries disconnected to start. Just having my 2nd cup of coffee now.







I would have gone with Banks as I like the way they shaped the air box itself but I don't like that they don't replace the air intake tube to turbo and use the stock one. Plus replacement filters are 50 bucks more than S&Bs. S&Bs filter looked bigger than Banks did for my MY.

Also like the clear lid on S&B and screw less top cover. I do see that Banks are making monster sized filters for the newer trucks though. They call them big *** filters. If I had a 20 MY plus, I'd have to look at the Banks more closely. Their system for the new trucks looks great but obviously didn't look at the two closer because I don't own one.

Stay tuned...

More discussion on my Max Mileage will be posted also.