So if I had known how easy it was to just pull up and off the bottom outside door window weather strip, i would have done this before instead of just keep spraying the spot with Fluid Film.



Before removing the bottom weather strip off the door.


The bottom weatherstrip removed. I did take a 1/4 inch 1/2 inch socket and place it between the door and side weather strip piece so I could get behind it.



Prepped and ready for paint. You can't see it but i have that socket in there.


The socket in place there...


Another shot of the bed wheel well scuffed up.


I only got two coats of silver on today. Had to go with the fam running around. I'll take pics tomorrow if it's not raining.

Still had that window open and saw flashes... went out to close it. Of course it's gotta rain now but paint felt dry to the touch because it was humid today and it's cured by moisture. Will see how it holds up when I go to recoat.

 

I do my regens at 65 mph with 6th gear locked out which gives me 2k RPMs which is where Ford programs the engine to be at during a manual stationary regen.

At 70 mph, you would be in the ballpark then. My regens took longer when I left the truck in 6th gear because she dropped RPMs... They probably were at 1700 if I'm guessing right. I'll make note of that as well.

 

So I'm screwing around on Rockauto.com when I went into the fuel and air section. They have the Motorcraft FD4615 fuel filter set for $59.79 which is about 10 bucks cheaper than dieselfiltersonline.com where I bought 3 sets of MC FD4615 in the past and still have 2 sets. The next oil change I'm due for a fuel filter change.

So from there,

Diesel3Tech+Motorcraft Diesel3Tech+ provides dual-stage filtration with a primary filter comprised of four high-performance materials, and a secondary filter with a dual-layer filter media, achieving filtration efficiency above 98% for 10 microns, above 99.8% for 30 microns and filtering particles as small as 4 microns. The diesel-fuel filters use advanced technology, including a hydrophobic (water-repelling) mesh and a special coalescent felt layer to achieve water efficiency removal above 98%.

• High-performance filter media for outstanding cleanliness
• Superior water-separation performance
• Conductive resins for electrostatic discharge
• Superior gaskets and welding

Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): BC3Z9N184B

That secondary fuel filter is a damn good filter IMO.

Just FYI for you 11 to 16 guys.

 

Where are you getting your automotive paint from? i get mine from these guys.
https://www.automotivetouchup.com/
I have bought from these guys more than once.

 

It's not automotive paint Bone. It's a specially designed paint made for treatment of rust. Check out the links I posted. It's totally different than automotive paint. It cures by exposure to moisture. At one point, that Chassis Saver paint will get top coated with their epoxy Bedliner called Monstaliner. Guys have done their whole vehicle with that stuff before. Check out those links. I'm sure it's info you have never seen before.

 

I was able to get two coats on yesterday but the rain today is preventing me getting on more. It rained very lightly after the first coat but the truck was parked under the Bradley pear tree whose branches hang over the driveway. So the paint stayed dry. Then I got a second coat on that had at least an hour and a half of dry time before it started raining again.

I got a few pics before the rain moved in again. I applied the paint with a Q tip as the area was very small.


With the flash on.


Flash off


It seems like the paint bonded to the metal this time due to scuffing the metal with that 60 grit.


Passenger rear door... There was very light rust there...


The corner




Since i will recoat after 24 hours, I'll have to scuff the paint with 400 grit sandpaper but could probably use 150 grit real light.

Once I have at least two more coats of the silver down, I'll top coat it with the antique satin black I used.

I gotta be honest here, I really am a function over form guy as opposed to the other way around. My goal is to make sure that the paint properly adheres to avoid problems, then cover it with Monstaliner for the ultimate protection.

I'm really not against eventually coating the whole truck in Monstaliner for the ultimate durable coating on my truck. And IMO, on the plus side, I won't run WITH the crowd, I'll STAND out.

I recently sold my mom's car and the guy who bought had a same gen truck as mine that was deleted. We were talking truck stuff when he mentioned that mine was a gasser... Because I de-badged the truck. I smiled and said, "No, it's got a 6.7."

 

I thought you were just going to paint it with auto paint.

 

I just looked at your pictures again and saw this was near the window. What a odd place to rust. As for sand paper and I guess you know this already but the wood sandpaper is different than automotive sandpaper. They use a different material for the grit. It's a pain to paint and get it just right.

 

No problem. I've used this paint, Chassis Saver, before on the receiver of my 94 4Runner that's in my garage. I wire brushed the loose rust off, cleaned it and painted over it with the antique satin black Chassis Saver. The paint has faded due to the door spring being busted and I haven't fixed it yet, but zero rust has come through. I'll take a picture when I think of it and post here. It's made to adhere to tight rust, no loose pieces, and seal it from oxygen preventing further rust as long as it's properly prepped and cleaned.



The weather stripping has a metal reinforcement that must have dug into the corner of the door, it looked like it was pushed into the corner, and worn the paint off from vibration of the movement of the truck and rust happened.

As to sandpaper, no I did not, I'm clueless when it comes to that. But the 150 grit sandpaper scuffed the solid paint great as did the 60 grit scuff the bare metal really good for adhesion of the Chassis Saver.

 

The auto sand paper which is dark gray or black is good for cars and the other stuff is good for wood. Auto sand paper you can get 3,000 grit for finish sanding on the paint. They have heavier grit for removing rust like you are doing.

 

I was just looking through the sandpaper I have. I do have some automotive wet/dry sandpaper in the higher grits; 220,320 and 400 and some even higher. I sanded the Chassis Saver with the 400 as that's what they call for when the recoat time goes over 24 hours. I painted a third coat yesterday and was going to do a 4th but our neignbors were walking the dog and stopped to chit chat. It got dark and I said screw it. I'll apply a 4th coat today after work and if it dries to the touch, a first coat of the black over it.

But it does say on the heavy paper packaging of the sandpaper that I have in the lower grits not just for wood but for paint as well (for general purpose). I know where you're going with the automotive sandpaper in the higher grits, for finishing. Me, I'm a hack when it comes to finesse work like that -- or rather for me, a lack of.

I probably will not get to the Monstaliner before winter, but I'll throw a set of Weather Tech mud flaps (for the non flare application that I'll sell later on when I do put my factory flares back) on before winter to keep the snow/ice/salt off the factory side steps. I will treat the brackets with Chassis Saver before they go back on. Only the front brackets were real bad with rust. The middle and rear brackets were not bad at all. I'm debating on having my factory side steps powder coated so when I go to sell them, as I want an aftermarket set of wheel to wheel side steps (which I would coat with Monstaliner before they went on), I'll be able to ask more for them.

 

Back in the early 90's I was a professional painter for custom cabinetry. We always used Aluminum Oxide based papers. I've dabbled a bit in metal work and finishing as a DIY'er (not professionally) and I've always used Silicon Carbide for wet sanding. Not sure if anything has changed over the years or not.

Here is some info about the different types of sandpapers after a quick search.

 

Dave it must suck in the rust belt. Have you thought about POR15. You can paint it right over rust on parts that you can't see like brackets. I am not familiar with the product you are using but the P0R15 Looks like there is a process. I have not had to use this because it never snows here
https://por15.com/collections/rust-prevention

 

I don't have a big knowledge on sandpaper like I did in HS wood shop LOL. I don't do much woodworking these days mostly wet dry on some painting on a car I own. Sanding I got down pat but painting, not so much

 

It does suck Bone, for sure. I have heard of POR15 and have used it on my last truck, the 96 F250. It was on the driver's side floor. I prepped the floor the way they said to, unless I screwed something up, but it rusted again. So I stayed away from it. It's the same concept as the Chassis Saver is which is a coating for rusted metal. I can't remember if POR15 goes directly over rust or not like Chassis Saver does. Thanks but I'm sticking with Chassis saver based on what I've seen with my own eyes, i.e. the Chassis saver coated rusted receiver on my 4Runner.

Maybe one day I'll have the 4Runner going and I'll drive that in winter instead of my 16.