Here is a picture of the angle of my engine oil pan when I change it. My driveway angles down towards the street. I put the truck on the HD version of plastic ramps. It does test them as they bend some, but they do the job. Here's the pic.


It angles back towards the hole. I think for the next oil change, i may buy a cheap camera on the flex piece from Harbor Freight to get inside of the pan and present it here. Like i said before about ARod, the Ford tech on YouTube, i respect his experience and skill but this is the same guy calling anyone who runs oil past 5k miles a bozo, even with having the oil analyzed.

I'm the backyard bozo that drains the oil hot. I'm just wondering how many trucks get drained at the dealer that are not hot and that this leaves some of the crap in the bottom of the pan. If the oil is up to running temps, this shouldn't be a problem, am I RIGHT?

While I CANNOT completely rule out a PPE oil pan for my truck, as I am OVERKILL, I feel comfortable running the stock pan. My UOAs are coming out very good at bozo levels of 7k plus miles.

 

Nothing like draining the sump and filling with fresh oil and installing a new air filter.

 

Yeah buddy...

 

Certainly is, but even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and then.

 

You be careful with those ramps son. I think you may need to get the Overkill version.

 

Yeah I know... I'm thinking of possibly pouring in high strength concrete in the front part. might be heavy as schitt but cheaper than a steel set. Thanks...

 

I think there is some high strength expansion foam that might be better and lighter. Duck tape all the underside if it's all open and make a hole pour it in let it form and set. An idea..

 

If I was a betting man, I would bet ARod is performing an oil change on an ambient temperature engine based on how long the oil continued to drain. Another observation there was a pretty good amount of oil still draining when he installed the drain plug and oil filter.

 

Duplicate post

 

Yeah but I got a bag of high strength concrete in my garage now. I'm looking to save money here... they are the 8k lb version but my truck does tax them some...













I'll let you guys know what I come up with...

 

Spot on assessment Troy. I agree... I'm thinking that that truck was sitting in the lot, he pulled it in, oil was still "cold" (ambient temps and not at full operating temps) and proceeded with the oil change.

 

I had my truck in last week for the recall emissions update and a few other issues. It lists on the invoice about the 21E01 that I find interesting:

"Accessed the diagnostic port, and performed a Powertrain Control Module and a Transmission Control Module software update as per the Recall 21E01 instructions."

I don't recall anyone mentioning this or it being discussed in the 21E01 Recall thread that was made.

I had a squeaking noise coming from the right side which I suspected the ball joint(s). They found play in the upper and the lower was binding. The wheel bearing was seized into the knuckle. They had to heat up the knuckle and in the process, destroyed the bearing pounding it out in the process. I got a new bearing!

For the non-functioning rear camera, where prior the camera itself was replaced, they found an open ground circuit in the tailgate harness. They replaced the tailgate harness and I now have a working rear camera again! They found no damage nor corrosion in the harness. They stated that they have seen this before so it might be a clue, a faulty tailgate harness, to you guys in the 11 to 16 MYs for non-working rear cameras.

They replaced the left locking hub because it wouldn't turn. I know I have to turn them every so often but I guess I have take them apart and re-lube them. I was going to buy some Warns but you lose the auto-lock feature. It's not like I'm doing heavy duty four wheeling with the truck so I just gotta learn how to take them apart and keep 'em lubed up.

They also reset the air sensor pressure system as I've been dealing with that before. So far so good. But Joe, the truck service manager, told me to call him if the tire PSI fault light comes back. I hope it don't because I've been here before with it.

Now all I need is one of the left side ball joints to go bad before the end of December 2023 when the premium warranty is over so I can be set for another 90k miles.

 

Sounds like the “rust belt” is taking a toll on the Ford, not too terrible, just rolled over 106k on mine and the steering is definitely going to need attention before too long. Definitely have some parts going south, oilfield lease roads and Louisiana highways are starting to take their toll.

 

Hey dude... good hearing from ya.

Yeah, it doesn't help that they use the liquid stuff. I have to get to mild rust at the rear of the rear wheel wells and on the rockers. Gonna use Chassis saver and MonstaLiner.

Under the truck is not bad. Just a few spots. Like I've said, it gets Carwell oiled every year. I still have the stock shocks and steering stabilizer. Still rides good but will think of new units at one point.

That your deleted ride or the stocker?

 

stocker, recently had vacuum pump oil leak, fixed that, just decided to change the pump since I was there. Serviced the transmission and been changing the oil regularly, but I haven’t played with the steering components much, need to check em out and make sure they’re still good or change em out. Can’t tell if it’s just me or if the steering is getting loose.