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Dorman taillight replacement connector for right side
I replaced my passenger side taillight connector as the socket for the pin for the power for the running light corroded and came apart.
The Dorman replacement connector seems better than the factory one.
Factory connector
The replacement has a new design that has the body holding the sockets in on top which is probably a more secure design IMO. The wires were thicker than the factory wires, go figure...
Bought these on Amazon. Used my Harbor Freight heat gun to shrink them down.
These worked really well. They have glue in them.
Last edited by Overkill2; Apr 23, 2022 at 08:44 PM.
Reason: Add to post -- pics
I agree with Jollyrgr. Use solid uninsulated splices with a bit of solder in the ends finish with double wall adhesive heat shrink. Better control over the splice and the weatherproof seal. I finally ponied up and bought a Deustch master kit.
I get it all in the tank with out the stupid hose thing. with the hose you have to take the hose off to store the bottle, now you have a wet bottle and a wet hose to get that stuff all over you, then climb in to a $100,000.00 king ranch truck and make the leather stink.
sucks that you’re not far off or even off at all on a new truck price.
In regards to the Dorman connector, they used to be cheaper and of subpar quality back in the day, seems that now they’re getting their act together with at least some of the stuff.
The Dorman connector was made in Taiwan. If I can't get a Made in the USA product, I'd rather get a Taiwan product than a Made in China one.
As to doing a bare soldered wire splice with doubled walled Ancor marine grade shrink tube, I agree it's much better. I wanted simple and easy. Those splices fit into the factory cable loom for the taillight wires but some wire from the connector was bare. I wrapped the splices and the rest of the connector wires with a double wrap of electrical tape. I'll see what happens but I'm confident those made a waterproof seal on those splices.
When I cut off the factory connector, all the wires had some corrosion with the one that fell apart the worst. I have a gallon bottle of muriatic acid so I poured a small amount in a shot glass to dip the wires to clean off the corrosion. Always works like a charm. Just have to make sure there's water around to rinse off the acid.
For my 96 F250, I spent a lot of money on Ancor products at West Marine. Ancor tinned AWG cable, heavy duty tinned lugs, marine grade battery terminals.... I upgraded the big three.
My point being is I know marine grade stuff is good. I just wanted to try those butt connectors out. They have good reviews so I decided to give them a shot. We shall see... But it's always cool for the conversation when others talk about what they do. Thanks guys.
I agree with Jollyrgr. Use solid uninsulated splices with a bit of solder in the ends finish with double wall adhesive heat shrink. Better control over the splice and the weatherproof seal. I finally ponied up and bought a Deustch master kit.
Okay, I'm pretty wacked after doing the job today. My phone's at 27% battery so I'll see how far I get here. And thanks to the full spectrum CBD cream I bought on the suggestion from another EVOC instructor, my knees do not bother me at ALL..
Here goes:
The 13mm bolts on the bumper side for the bumper brace have to come out so the brace can be removed for access to the foglight mount itself and to get to the 8mm bolts that hold the whole assembly to the bumper.
The frame side of the bumper brace where those 2 13mm bolts have to come out.
The PITA 8mm bolts, which hold the foglight assembly to the bumper, are a MFer to remove and to re-install the top two. Not a lot of room on top there and especially for the outer bolt. A 1/4 inch cordless ratchet, if it would fit, would be a godsend for those two **** ers believe me.
Here's the whole assembly looking from the back side. Those retainers on top of the arms of plastic trim which prevent those cheap 13mm nuts from coming off.
I did better on the driver side as I found the body trim tool for that side. On the side shown, the passenger side light, I busted 2 of those 4 retainers.
On the drivers side, 3 made it but I snap off one of the arms because I used the body trim tool and it cracked that arm. Oh well.
Passenger side front view. Those instructions are spot on and in color.
The lights have a nut holder pocket which is great and makes mounting them to the new bracket they come with easy. I forget the Allen socket size... Sorry.
Mounted on the new bracket. The female connector will be on the bottom.
I cleaned off the arms, the housing holes and the nuts so i could use Blue locktight because 2 of the 4 retainers broke.
Three good retainers from the drivers side and....
The plastic trim arm that broke off with a good retainer on it...
You will know the light is mounted correctly when SAE is on the bottom where it should be.
Cleaned assembly with generous use of Blue locktight to hopefully keep those plastic metal nuts on those trim arms.
See that tab on the right side of the housing? There is a hole for that on the bumper.
The hole is to the right of the threaded clip for the 3rd 8mm bolt.
These 2 f *** kers right here, two sets, are what will make the job take longer because they are a PITA to get to. Like I said a cordless quarter inch ratchet would help but only if it would fit. I didn't have one so I don't know.
Last edited by Overkill2; Apr 24, 2022 at 09:03 PM.
Reason: Add to post -- pics
The Dorman connector was made in Taiwan. If I can't get a Made in the USA product, I'd rather get a Taiwan product than a Made in China one.
As to doing a bare soldered wire splice with doubled walled Ancor marine grade shrink tube, I agree it's much better. I wanted simple and easy. Those splices fit into the factory cable loom for the taillight wires but some wire from the connector was bare. I wrapped the splices and the rest of the connector wires with a double wrap of electrical tape. I'll see what happens but I'm confident those made a waterproof seal on those splices.
When I cut off the factory connector, all the wires had some corrosion with the one that fell apart the worst. I have a gallon bottle of muriatic acid so I poured a small amount in a shot glass to dip the wires to clean off the corrosion. Always works like a charm. Just have to make sure there's water around to rinse off the acid.
For my 96 F250, I spent a lot of money on Ancor products at West Marine. Ancor tinned AWG cable, heavy duty tinned lugs, marine grade battery terminals.... I upgraded the big three.
My point being is I know marine grade stuff is good. I just wanted to try those butt connectors out. They have good reviews so I decided to give them a shot. We shall see... But it's always cool for the conversation when others talk about what they do. Thanks guys.
Hey Dave I’m not trying to bust your *****. I have used crimp slices with built in heat shrink. I have some on my truck right now. I just prefer a non insulated splice because it’s easier to get a good crimp. Then use heat shrink over top. Then finish off with Tesa tape to get a factory loom look.
Hey Dave I’m not trying to bust your *****. I have used crimp slices with built in heat shrink. I have some on my truck right now. I just prefer a non insulated splice because it’s easier to get a good crimp. Then use heat shrink over top. Then finish off with Tesa tape to get a factory loom look.
No worries Jolly... I didn't take it that way. All good bro.
