When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If it helps you replumb your Ranger valve away from your turbo, you might consider tapping into the driver's side of the engine block for a heated coolant supply, similar to how the Excursion is plumbed for the rear climate control. There is a point after Cylinder 8, and another point between Cylinders 4 and 6. Using these points will eliminate all the heater hoses traversing across the valley under the new turbo, which will provide more flexibility in the rearrangement of your 4 way Ranger heater valve, as you are no longer tied to 6 ways of having to plumb that intersection.
Since the block taps I propose on the Driver's side head are on the same side as your fuel tank, the hoses to deliver hot coolant to your fuel tank remain on the driver's side frame rail, and only have to reach up to the rear and middle points of just the lower part of the driver's side head.
Serving suggestion.
That is an excellent suggestion. I will replumb as you have described. One project at a time though. Let's get this blasted engine up and running first.
EDIT: Do you happen to know what size threads those coolant access points have?
EDIT Again: Somebody please rep Y2kW57 for me. I'm in rep jail.
I do but I still managed gel the fuel one time. It took a lot of work to get the truck going again. Maybe it was just a bad batch of fuel but I have no desire to relive that experience.
I have decided to implement Y2KW57's suggestion sooner than later while access to the valley is still relatively uncluttered, at least the heater valve relocation part of it. The fuel heater will get reconnected at a later date.
In other news, I just remembered I have one more sensor that needs to tap into the intake Y to read pressure.
The Turbonator's boost pressure sensor has to tap into here too.
Drilling the Y.
Notice the hole is off-center relative to the boss.
That is an excellent suggestion. I will replumb as you have described. One project at a time though. Let's get this blasted engine up and running first.
EDIT: Do you happen to know what size threads those coolant access points have?
EDIT Again: Somebody please rep Y2kW57 for me. I'm in rep jail.
Same thread as passenger side front.
Using the factory service manual, locate the heater hose routing for the Excursion. That Excursion part can be used, or you can pull the existing part from your block (I wouldn't...I tend to leave non leaking seals alone) to mic threads.
Or, just pull a plug (plug between 4 and 6 is easiest to access, but may or may not be same thread as aft port on driver's side, which is the forward port on the passenger side.
On some applications of the International T444E's, the water jacket port between 4 and 6 is used.
What I'm suggesting to you is something that I have had planned for a top water fuel heater to frame relocation for the last 18 years... I just never moved to a climate where fuel heating was required, and the whole WVO boat set sail without me for lack of a no or low cost supply before the collectors consolidated into big time businesses
Leonard, so on the T-fitting you have MAP and Turbonator and then the new tapped port is for the boost sensor?
I am in jail for sending a rep to Y2KW57 as well.
I think your COA to complete the engine block heated coolant supply as a preventative against fuel gelling is a solid plan while you have the truck in the garage and torn down a bit. The idea provided by Y2KW57 will not only clean up the engine bay, it will make the use of the coolant as a heater more reliable and fortified since the hoses were close to the turbine of the upgraded turbo.
The tee will supply the MAP Sensor and boost gauge. The big stainless steel blob above the tee is the Turbonator's boost sensor.
I am currently fighting with the y-pipe and getting it in with stiff RiffRaff plenum boots (brand new) and the Turbonator's actuator getting in the way.
When I did the 363 I used new longer boots. The method used in my write up didn’t work. I used Sous’s method of barely on (the Y I think) and angled. Then pushed the whole shebang on together once they started over the mating parts. The write up revision currently in process has this noted.
I have been texting with Leonard to try and figure this thing out. The problem is that the Turbonator sticks out much further than the turbine housing. I think he almost has it, just needed to take a break for a moment...
I asked if he could get the Y-pipe onto the plenum without the boots, just setting there and he said it was a tight fit. I suggested he bring the boots up as high as possible on the Y-pipe and then try to slide the boots down onto the plenum once they were setting hard surface to hard surface. I don't know for sure that will work, but I am hoping for a "victory" post soon.
I am a defeated man for today. No matter what I've tried, I can't get the Y-pipe to slip into the boots. Out of curiosity, i sat the Y-pipe on the plenums to see how bad the misalignment is. It turns out it sticks outboard of the plenums 1/8" on each side. Why my plenums stick so far into the valley I have no idea. It may be because the heads and block got decked during the rebuild. I may have to consider cutting the bottoms of the Y-pipe shorter.
View of driver side of y-pipe from the rear looking towards the dront of the vehicle.
In happier news, I found out I do not have to do much to connect the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust.
A short bit of 4" tube, a 4” to 3 1/2" adapter and a lap joint band clamp (not pictured) is all that’s needed.
I am a defeated man for today. No matter what I've tried, I can't get the Y-pipe to slip intobthe boots. Out of curiosity, i sat the Y-pipe on the plenums to see how bad the alignment is. It turns out it sticks outboard of the plenums 1/8" on each side. Why my plenums stick so far into the valley I have no idea. It may be because the heads and block got decked during the rebuild. I may have to consider cutting the bottoms of the Y-pipe shorter.
The issue is not your truck/plenums, the issue is the csd y pipe. I have actually ground mine down on the outside bottoms to help it slide in. I also heated my boots and that helped as they were more pliable.
My Irate pipe is sooooo much easier, I may order another one and toss the csd y next time...
This issue is enhanced more so by my beans plenums as well.
My Y-pipe had a similar fit Leonard. As I said over text, the best way I found was by putting the boots on loosely and wiggling the Y-pipe into place. But, you have additional hardware in place from the Turbonator making this already somewhat difficult task much more difficult.
If you cut the Y-pipe, be very careful not to cut too much... I trust your ability to see things through correctly, I just don't want you making a mistake where it is not easily recovered from. Worst comes to worst, you get a Y-pipe from Irate and call it a day. If I ever need to remove my Y-pipe, I may do just that depending on how many pennies are in my piggy bank at the time.
If you have the stock intake spider still, what about cutting it up and using it? Will likely gain a bit of clearance on the backside as well. They trim up pretty well for use in T4 setups.
