They are still hand built by humans. Jigs are not perfect and some variation is always possible. My Irate up-pipes touched my block and had to be manipulated - but the next (2) I installed went together with no issue.

 

So I did some welding grinding today.


silver-soldered a wire bead onto the new 60 degree elbow.


Elbow tacked to the CSD tube while both ends were in the truck and lined up.


Do you think it's smooth enough that it will be unnoticeable after painting?

 

I couldn't care less how smooth the joint is on the outside, or if anyone will notice or SEE the joint after painting.

My concern is whether or not YOU will HEAR the joint after that tube is pressurized.

From the photos you presented, the fit up of the joint was butted tightly together and tacked, with no V bevel (that my old eyes can perceive), and no gap.

Without a V bevel or a gap, there is no way to tell that full penetration through the thickness of the tubing was achieved.

The puddle could freeze on top of the tubing, and then you grind the caterpillar down to make it smooth, only to find that under pressure, the very thin layer of weld metal remaining (that didn't penetrate the parent material) isn't enough to withstand the fatigue cycling of thermal expansion and contraction combined with pressure ballooning and contraction.

Welding thin tubing like that is not easy by any means. That is why I was encouraging you to try and see of CSD would make it right. It isn't as if the dimensions of the 7.3L pedestal mounting locations differ from block to block.

It is true that people use different turbos, however, and may clock the compressor housing differently, so I can see how going back to CSD might be a difficult ask.

However, welding thin tubing is difficult too, especially tubing that is going to be subject to a high volume of pressure and thermal cycling.

Appearance would be the last thing that would concern me, but if removing excess weldment circumferentially around a tube, I would be inclined to use 120 grit flap discs, stopping well short of final diameter, and then finish with an inverted sanding belt of 320 grit following the contour of the tubing.

Ideally, a preferred joint might be tig welded and left as welded, with no abrasive resurfacing at all.

 

How do the larger s400 series turbos fit compared to the s300? Are they larger overall? I believe the csd is designed to be used with either, and maybe that is why the fitment of the drivers side pipe isnt a perfect fitment to the s300?

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A bigger compressor scroll (cover) is only going to make the fit worse.

 

I just did the install again to put on the 363/68. My gap looks pretty much identical to Dan V’s with other turbos.
As I mentioned before, the Y prevents clocking the turbo any lower so I feel this will be about best case for anyone installing this kit. My outlet is a frog’s hair from the Y. I understand your concern about stressing the boot with an improper alignment but I used Sous’s fix.

Yep, salty and old school sounds about right. I liked him when we spoke on the phone. I mentioned people using a longer boot to overcome the poor alignment and he was oblivious to any concern with it.
His kit “fits” ok but it’s not refined like you would expect from a kit from a big name like Banks. Basically it works fine but it isn’t a direct bolt in so it’s almost like he expects a little custom tweaking along the way.
1- the Y does not fit right. I fought with it yesterday and was growling about it the whole time. It’s just way too wide for the plenums. Seems like the casting should have been fixed by his supplier years ago as this is a very common complaint.
2- the CAC alignment to the Y is off like in Dan and FTN’s photos above.
3- the downpipe either hits (or is very close to) the valve cover or the firewall. I opted to clear the firewall well so it doesn’t rattle in the cab.

Still a pretty good kit for some hand built custom stuff but would love to see these few items refined a bit.

 

@Y2KW57 , you make some astute observations as always. I am forced into some bad welding habits because of my POS MIG. Judging by the control panel, I am supposed to have 4 power settings. In practice, I have 2: barely enough power to give me a burn or enough power to blast a hole through 10ga sheet steel in 2 seconds. As a result, I am unable to weld a nice continuous bead. Instead, I have to lay down a blob, let it cool then weld another blob next to the first one. The result makes popcorn ceiling look smooth. I used to put bevels on butt joints but found they do not help with this welder. I have inspected the joint from the other side with my endoscope and verified that there was full penetration. I would love to own a TIG though if anyone wants to start a GoFundMe. I will take your advice with the flap disc and sanding belt to smooth the joint.

@SRBF150, @Dan V and @RacinJasonWV , I sent an email to CSD on Friday morning. I have not heard a thing back. I will happily send pictures of the modification I have made to them if they are willing to bend me a new one.

 

Sounds like you need to switch the polarity. When you open the side cover there are usually 2 terminals with wires, switching them changes the polarity. MIG/Gas uses a different polarity than MIG Fluxcored.

 

I was running fluxcored on the correct polarity. Ran out of gas.

 

What broke said is correct. And what happens when running a Hobart Hander 140 wide open using .023....and you only have a mediocre 15 amp circuit to it is you don't get the full amperage....making a cold bead. I had to fire up my Honda 3000 to run my little mig in the attached garage this weekend.

 

Well crap. What should I do then? Cut her open and start over?

 

Noob, what intake are you running?
I have a new Irate drivers side cooler pipe you can have if you want to try it.
It just doesnt work with an s&b style intake

 

That's a very generous offer ESwift. I have an AFe Stage 2.

 

Not sure if it would clear that or not

 

Use the angle boot as proposed..?🙊