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What broke said is correct. And what happens when running a Hobart Hander 140 wide open using .023....and you only have a mediocre 15 amp circuit to it is you don't get the full amperage....making a cold bead. I had to fire up my Honda 3000 to run my little mig in the attached garage this weekend.
I love my Hobart 140! The key with making the 120v MIG welders run "hot" and resist cold bead characteristics is to run Fluxcored. I run .035" flux out of my 140 Handler and it is a little beast.
FTN, why not just make another pass on it if there is any concern.
You pressure tested it. It will be fine.....most likely.
Seriously though, if you tested it and it doesn’t leak then I would use it. Don’t let us scare ya. What’s the worst that can happen? A leak in the future? Carry an extra straight boot and a couple clamps. If you run into issues then slide the boot patch over it until you can get home.
I am no welder, but back in the day when I was trying to weld on my race care floor panels (220v Lincoln mig) I found it easier to prevent burn through when using a larger wire. It seemed the small diameter wire created too much concentrated heat and not enough fill. Maybe that’s just because I’m a novice.
I also hated the flux core, but haven’t tried it again since I picked up the gas and started using it. Probably been 17 years ago....
Good morning ladies and gentlemen. Today's COA is to get myself fingerprinted for my FL carry permit application and then get upgraded hardware to pressure test the pipe to at least 50psi. If that goes okay, then I'm sanding, polishing and painting the turd.
Good morning ladies and gentlemen. Today's COA is to get myself fingerprinted for my FL carry permit application and then get upgraded hardware to pressure test the pipe to at least 50psi. If that goes okay, then I'm sanding, polishing and painting the turd.
Parts list has been updated.
for FL carry permit and polishing the turd! This build has all sorts of surprises for us.
I am hoping the new controller has the same footprint as the faulty one since you spent all that time fabricating the mount for it.
get upgraded hardware to pressure test the pipe to at least 50psi.
So what hardware are you getting to test the CAC tube to 50 psi?
If it is on the "parts list", can you break out just the parts that you are using to make your test apparatus and post them here?
I've made a few test plugs over the years, and always seemed to find their blow off points.
A real life example... a test boot and cap that held pressure all day at 20 psi, blew off at 22 psi. Just 2 more psi made all the difference, so imagine what 20 more psi can discover.
I recently put together a safer boost leak testing apparatus that I've been testing over the last week. But while my set up is designed to avoid personal injury, I'm not sure that it will hold 50 psi, and I will never test it that high to find out, because I don't intend to ever run boost pressures that high. But that doesn't stop me from being curious about what will work to reliably and safely test to 50 psi. You've got my full attention on this tangent of your project.
So what hardware are you getting to test the CAC tube to 50 psi?
If it is on the "parts list", can you break out just the parts that you are using to make your test apparatus and post them here?
I've made a few test plugs over the years, and always seemed to find their blow off points.
A real life example... a test boot and cap that held pressure all day at 20 psi, blew off at 22 psi. Just 2 more psi made all the difference, so imagine what 20 more psi can discover.
I recently put together a safer boost leak testing apparatus that I've been testing over the last week. But while my set up is designed to avoid personal injury, I'm not sure that it will hold 50 psi, and I will never test it that high to find out, because I don't intend to ever run boost pressures that high. But that doesn't stop me from being curious about what will work to reliably and safely test to 50 psi. You've got my full attention on this tangent of your project.
At the moment, it feels like I have two of everything from the plumbing department of the hardware store without any idea of what to use. I'll post up once I find something that works.
I hear you on how one never knows how close to the edge one is until you reach it. I too do not plan to run boost levels anywhere close to 50psi. I am trying to adhere to good engineering practice and test to a "proof" pressure that gives me confidence that boost levels are well within limits.
Spray diesel insise the tube on the weld. If there is a ‘leak’, the diesel will wick through and produce a wet spot on the outside.
FWIW, this is a legitimate test procedure we use to test the ‘corner weld’ where a tank shell meets the tank bottom (large, above ground tanks. Up to 350ft diameter with up to 1.5” thick walls that are high strength steel....).
At the moment, it feels like I have two of everything from the plumbing department of the hardware store without any idea of what to use. I'll post up once I find something that works..
FordTruckNoah !
How about starting a new thread on boost tester building, to walk folks through that journey?
Like start off with a photo of your current shopping Ark that you sailing up and down the plumbing aisles with right now.
Then once at home, lay out all your pieces and test apparatus builds.
It's up to you of course, but I only suggest this separately from your SXE variable vane T4 project due to guessing that those who are not at all interested in anything but stock, modified stock, or drop in turbos would entirely miss the benefit of your boost leak detection build, when it applies to everyone, regardless of what turbo they have or how it is plumbed.
I suspect FTN was planning to test the newly welded CSD pipe to 50 PSI and not the entire system. I also suspect he selected 50 PSI because that is far and above what he expects to see when the turbo is boosting.
Perhaps I am wrong though, either way I am looking forward to the results of this project.