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I tee into the heater core supply and return where the hoses run parallel to the firewall for VO conversions.
I also usually use a 1/4 turn ball valve instead of the complicated and failure prone ‘automatic’ valves.
Thanks @SkySkiJason . I did not fully appreciate what you were telling me until after brokestroke posted pictures of his Excursion's auxiliary heater hoses. Can somebody rep SSJ for me please? I'm in rep jail for him too. I seem to be in rep jail for everybody.
Y2K, the CSD kit is good, but the fit could be better. It would be fine if the Y didn't fit my truck... but this seems to be a common issue across all installers. Is it a show stopper? Nope. Is it annoying? Most definitely. I am a bit of a perfectionist at times. It is frustrating to see something happen time and time again. In my tiny mind it seems easy enough to modify the cast for the Y to actually make it fit, but I'm sure it's harder than I imagine.
I noticed in your photo the stock Y doesn't have retaining rings. So maybe it's not as big of a deal as originally thought. I will wait and see FTN's results. If his Y stays put (without the bracket) then I will likely cut mine the next time it is off the truck. The misalignment makes a headache out of what should be an easy part of the job.
Originally Posted by Y2KW57
Some things happen at 36 psi that don't happen at 16 psi.
I think I will install the bracket as a safeguard. Trying to shoehorn the CSD y-pipe back into place after it pops off out on the road is not something I want to attempt. @RacinJasonWV , the other thing the factory y-pipe has going for it is the fact that it has a v-band clamp holding it to the turbo to keep it from popping off the plenums. None of the T4/SXE y-pipes have that going on. Now I have even removed the lip on the y-pipe so it's a double whammy. I considered turning a recessed groove behind the ends of my newly-configured CSD y-pipe to form a new lip but I lack the equipment.
Some things happen at 36 psi that don't happen at 16 psi.
I have ran the stock spider to 32psi with the MST and 38r, but as FTN mentioned it does hard connect to the turbo in this configuration which could help retain it a bit.
Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob
I think I will install the bracket as a safeguard. Trying to shoehorn the CSD y-pipe back into place after it pops off out on the road is not something I want to attempt. @RacinJasonWV , the other thing the factory y-pipe has going for it is the fact that it has a v-band clamp holding it to the turbo to keep it from popping off the plenums. None of the T4/SXE y-pipes have that going on. Now I have even removed the lip on the y-pipe so it's a double whammy. I considered turning a recessed groove behind the ends of my newly-configured CSD y-pipe to form a new lip but I lack the equipment.
Adding the bracket to a correctly fitting Y may be easier than fighting the misalignment on a normal T4 conversion too.
Having someone run a small bead around the Y ends may be another option as a safety margin solution.
Originally Posted by brokestroke
No problems with my cut stock spider without the lips in the casting up to 36psi.
FWIW
I have never had an intake y come loose. I ran an AFE Blade runner for a long time, that had no bead (shoulda kept it and used it with my t4 kit...), I never used the bracket that was included to hold it, ran 38+ psi through it with zero issues. When I picked up my csd kit I tossed that bracket back on his shelf before heading home
Lots of progress made this morning. Turbonator is fully hooked up, actuator calibrated (had to loosen the mount get wiggle room to install y-pipe) and functioning nominally IN the truck. You may recall this is the step I ran into problems with the Turbonator the last time. I estimate engine startup no later than Monday, probably sooner.
I dont understand how there can be an fitment issue in mass produced kit,which have been in production for years..Surely all major(Irate,CSD and Obsession) manufacturers have test fitted their kit in stock confiquration..🐒
This Turbonator is a little different story,since it has that controller box attached in turbine housing.And it is relatively new for 7.3..
I can't help quoting myself after all that misalignment this and misalignment that, talk in this thread..
Imagine if i would have purchased a 1500$ + 24% VAT+customs,T4 kit and then be grinding those "quality" parts with a big smile in my face..🤡
I did have my share of trouble with my domestic so called "machinists" and "welders"..👺
Atleast my parts were one-of-a-kind type around here,not a "mass" produced by PROs..
Biggest surprise in my T4 build was the lack of professionals around metal work,here in central Finland..
I can't help quoting myself after all that misalignment this and misalignment that, talk in this thread..
Imagine if i would have purchased a 1500$ + 24% VAT+customs,T4 kit and then be grinding those "quality" parts with a big smile in my face..🤡
I did have my share of trouble with my domestic so called "machinists" and "welders"..👺
Atleast my parts were one-of-a-kind type around here,not a "mass" produced by PROs..
Biggest surprise in my T4 build was the lack of professionals around metal work,here in central Finland..
Noob,i can almost smell the smoke allready! 👍
You and Mr. Brokestroke are the people I was referring to when I said "homemade". Both of you are very skilled at what you do and we commend you for your drive and passion to "geterdun".
Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob
The more I work with this kit the more I feel the same way you do. Having said that, the fit of the plate , pedestal and up pipes is flawless.
I agree that at least the critical and precision pieces are good to go out of the box. Could you imagine if the pedestal was not perfectly flat or the oil ports were off by 1/8"...