Looks like a solid design and I am glad you told us that was a hole saw. I thought that is what it used to be and would have asked if you hadn't said anything.

I really have high hopes that this works out very well and beyond your expectations.

 

Thats ingenious. Best part is how it looks like its meant to be there. Phenomenal work!

 

Leonard, is there a reason, given that the drive pressure sensor is fed by a tube, that you just didn't extend the tube to a more suitable location?

 

I used their tube because they were very specific about using their tube and only their tube for the warranty to stay valid.

 

Well, when one is waiting on parts before one can proceed, one does things like putting the old intake Y pressure tap for the boost gauge in the case polisher for 36 hours.

 

FordTruckiNNovate

(For the holesaw hemisphere, not the polishing. For the polishing, see FordTruckNomofingers. )

 

An idea to make a heat shield from a hole saw is very innovative!😎

 

FordTruckNeverfailing

 

This reminds me of the capstone project for one of my classes. Local businesses had volunteered to host teams of students to create a business plan for a new project for each business. This one business was a 2-man operation sharpening dental picks run by 2 brothers. They had 3.2 fingers between the 2 of them according to the student team that worked with that business.

 

I almost used a hole saw to make a boost leak detector.



Almost.

 

I can see that working. Why didn't you?

 

Milwaukee hole saws have too many holes!





The back plates have four pin location holes for the arbor, in addition to the central threaded hole for the arbor.

The pin location holes are for the spring loaded collar in the arbor to engage in the hole saw back plate to keep the hole saw from winding up the threads of the arbor in a way that might make them nearly impossible to separate in the field after use.

Then, there are two additional holes on the back plate for plug removal, plus four diagonal slots on the sides of the hole saw, also for plug removal. Just too many leak opportunities to have to seal against to be bothered using it.

The reason why I considered the 3" hole saw is because I did not want to use plastic. If I'm going to launch a missile across the yard, I want it to be one missile that I have a reasonable chance to stand out of the way of, not a bunch of randomly flying splinters of plastic shards.

But a flat metal disc will not do either, The boost leak testing plug of desire has to be 3 dimensional, like a cup, for the boot clamp to have enough purchase to seal against, which is why a hole saw came to mind.

I did find a solution, although I just realized that the photo below doesn't show the "depth" of the metal disc cup, which is about the width of a boot clamp, and yet narrow enough to fit between two reinforcement rings on a reinforced boot.




I actually took this photo when you announced that you were going to subject your welded tube to a 50 psi pressure and hold test. I redesigned the seals in this arrangement of fittings to flat seals (previously O rings) to prevent hidden squeeze out.

 

Damn these high-quality hole saws with the extra features that make them inappropriate for unintended applications!!

That's why we should all have one of these.

 

I use remote hoses and just stand on the opposite side of the orifice(s) being pressure tested.

The boost leak detectors offered by the phalanx of vendors who sell to this market are cute, but crazy.

It is utter insanity to have a tiny 0-100 psi gauge on the face of a boost leak detector.

In order to read the tiny bunched together demarcations on the gauge, you have to look closely at it.

And where is one's face positioned in order to look closely at the gauge? Directly in the path of the blast zone.

It's like looking down a live canon. Makes no sense.

Yet the typical boost leak detector as copy cat offered across most vendors is simpler and cheaper and more compact to manufacture and ship, so we have a product that addresses the demand of the market while fulfilling the profit motive of the vendor, but does not really serve the best interests of the purchaser. No way do I want to have my face in front of the typical boost leak detector to read how much pressure it is holding or to monitor the rate of decay.

It doesn't take a bunker to address the concern.

With a remote mounted, correctly "sized" gauge that is readily readable and easily resolvable within the range of pressures tested for, the truck itself can be used as a "bunker", to keep the face out of the blast zone.







In the photos above, I have isolated the just the charge air cooler (an all aluminum header tank Banks "Technicooler" that is now 20 years old) to check the tube exchanger field for any cracks. There were none. It held 25 psi for an hour.



In this instance, I have isolated the intake Y half of the spider and control the test in 1 psi increments, limiting the test to 4 psi to avoid distension of any seals in the crankcase. 3 psi was plenty adequate to find the leak I was looking for...




Ironically, leak was at the T to the boost gauge, tee'd into the line between the Y manifold and the MAP sensor.

 

Wow @Y2KW57 , you have put considerable effort and thought into your boost leak testing setup. What brand of air tank is that sitting on top of your Topside Creeper? My next project after this one is OBA and I could use a reservoir with several ports like that.