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My boost leak test rig is a PVC cap with an air hose coupling on it. I regulate the air pressure to 10-15psi and just plug the hose into the coupler for test.
I’ve used this for like 15yrs and evolved from a cap with gauge, valve, etc because none of that stuff is needed.
My boost leak test rig is a PVC cap with an air hose coupling on it. I regulate the air pressure to 10-15psi and just plug the hose into the coupler for test.
I’ve used this for like 15yrs and evolved from a cap with gauge, valve, etc because none of that stuff is needed.
Seems like y’all go to a lot more trouble??
Well, my regular boost leak tester is the same as yours. That rig with lots of wood and a porta power is a one-off special to test the CAC tube, never to be repeated hopefully.
Wow @Y2KW57 , you have put considerable effort and thought into your boost leak testing setup. What brand of air tank is that sitting on top of your Topside Creeper? My next project after this one is OBA and I could use a reservoir with several ports like that.
It is a Hitachi air carry tank. It is the only ASME code welded air carry tank that I could find locally. Most air carry tanks are not welded to ASME code. You can easily tell the difference by the bell ends of the tank.
KKR, the investment group that owns this forum, purchased the power and pneumatic tool division of Hitachi, and separately, purchased Metabo tools. Subsequently, they combined the sales and marketing of these two brands into one, called MetaboHPT for all the pneumatic tools and accessories formerly known as Hitachi. So you might find the same tank today branded under the name of Metabo instead.
You will notice the large inspection ports (distinguished by the square nut plugs), as well as how the bell ends fully round the "corners" of the cap to wrap transition forming the tank cylinder. Non code welded tanks have the weld seam AT this "corner," whereas code welded tank have the weld seam on the shell (or tank wrap).
My large compressor is down for maintenance, and my small compressors make too much noise, so the air carry tank assures enough ambient silence to hear air moving.
Leonard, how nervous were you threading those fittings into the cast Y-pipe? I remember I was very nervous because the T-fitting I bought for the boost/MAP seemed to very tight and I thought I might be cross-threading it. Turned out to work well though.
The MAP fitting installed by CSD was actually cross threaded when I got my Y. I tried to clean up the threads but probably shouldn’t have. Had some trouble getting it to seal.
Leonard, how nervous were you threading those fittings into the cast Y-pipe? I remember I was very nervous because the T-fitting I bought for the boost/MAP seemed to very tight and I thought I might be cross-threading it. Turned out to work well though.
Getting closer!
It wasn't too bad. I chased the threads lightly with a a tap before attempting to install anything. I also have a habit of turning the fitting backwards until I feel the threads "click" into place before turning to tighten.
Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
The MAP fitting installed by CSD was actually cross threaded when I got my Y. I tried to clean up the threads but probably shouldn’t have. Had some trouble getting it to seal.
I think they learned their lesson because my y-pipe came with nothing preinstalled.
The MAP fitting installed by CSD was actually cross threaded when I got my Y. I tried to clean up the threads but probably shouldn’t have. Had some trouble getting it to seal.
I think you finished my thought for me and I thank you for that... I realized after you wrote your quote above I was misremembering what happened with the fitting. I removed the CSD installed fitting in order to install my own T-fitting and when I went to re-install the CSD supplied fitting it was not very confidence inspiring.
Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob
It wasn't too bad. I chased the threads lightly with a a tap before attempting to install anything. I also have a habit of turning the fitting backwards until I feel the threads "click" into place before turning to tighten.
I think they learned their lesson because my y-pipe came with nothing preinstalled.
I also attempt to turn the fitting in reverse before installing an important part like this, but was still very nervous due to the way the CSD supplied fitting came out of the casting. It all worked out fine and I was grateful for that. Good to hear that his shop is no longer installing the fitting for the customer. Due to their **** poor packing, I could see this being a problem as UPS throws it from truck to truck.
Looking forward to more images and updates. I think you are right on par with the length of time it took for my install as well. I had to wait until the weather cooled off, then I added things to the list like UVCH, gaskets, GP's, etc.
Just looked but I don’t have any photos on my phone of the condition. The 90* MAP fitting was definitely not straight as shipped by CSD. But it also wasn’t tight and didn’t have any sealant. I figured they just stuck the fitting in to keep it from getting lost but whoever installed it tapped the hole must have still been asleep at the time. It was way off. But I should have just sealed and reinstalled in the gross angled condition as those threads were already made. Figured worse case I could just drill out and tap a larger hole if needed.
For the record, the extra hole I drilled and tapped for my boost fitting worked fine.
The intake temp sensor hole/threading in my CSD "Y" is angled downward. Really annoys me. I have thought numerous times about attempting to re-drill and thread, but I know it will only make it worse. It is sealed as-is. LIkely would need TIG welding and then re-drill and tap. Between this, the fact the Y could fit better to the plenums and the downpipe, I consider the CSD kit as serviceable, but not all that good.
Yep. I'd go with the CSD mount and up-pipes, Irate Y and intake tube (just bought this intake tube to change from the S&B to a 6637 style), and probably the Irate downpipe.
I finally managed to break the wire shield on the cowl after multiple installs and removals for mockups, clocking, etc. It's a discontinued part so the only thing left to do is fix it. Carbon fiber repair in progress:
