When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That stud conversion sure looks like a better way to go. If I ever need to remove my CSD kit, I will definitely go this route. Looking at the oil supply fitting location to the right of the return fitting in the last picture, I believe you will still have room to get the wrench in there to secure the fitting. Might want to mock it up while the turbo is out just to be sure. I came from the driver side over the head and it was easy, but I didn't have that stud sticking up. Again, I don't think there will be a problem, but it is worth a check now.
Those quad o-rings look nice and like they were meant to be there.
What is your plan of attack for the cowl? Heat and a pry bar or just a pry bar or another idea?
Noting wrong with a tool that provides brute force in order to reach the desired outcome.
Originally Posted by Finnishstroker
Nice to see someone installing quality T4 turbo parts..
I agree with this 100%. I would have liked for Leonard to accomplish this install before me so that I could have used his parts list and gone the same route. But, I believe that one of my videos was a big nudge for him to purchase a T4.
So for one that hasn't done the T4 install yet, is the advantage of the studs just so you can align and drop the pedestal on without worrying about dislodging the o-rings?
Theres also a crappy parts T4 install here at FTE..
Have you checked it out..? 😂
I didn’t get the joke at first.
There’s nothing crappy about your install. I have been following along cheering for you.
Noob, I’m glad that my recommendation for downpipe fitting was not necessarily required in your case. Mine wanted to hit everything! But that was probably mostly due to me not cutting the exhaust back far enough to begin with. Tight fit to the valve cover isn’t it? It was for me anyways.
That stud conversion sure looks like a better way to go. If I ever need to remove my CSD kit, I will definitely go this route. Looking at the oil supply fitting location to the right of the return fitting in the last picture, I believe you will still have room to get the wrench in there to secure the fitting. Might want to mock it up while the turbo is out just to be sure. I came from the driver side over the head and it was easy, but I didn't have that stud sticking up. Again, I don't think there will be a problem, but it is worth a check now.
Those quad o-rings look nice and like they were meant to be there.
Originally Posted by FinnishStroker
Nice to see someone installing quality T4 turbo parts..
Originally Posted by Sous
I agree with this 100%. I would have liked for Leonard to accomplish this install before me so that I could have used his parts list and gone the same route. But, I believe that one of my videos was a big nudge for him to purchase a T4.
Thanks for the kind words guys. As always, my achievements stand on the shoulders of great men that have come before me such as yourselves. I would not have gone down this path if it weren't for you leading the way.
Originally Posted by Sous
What is your plan of attack for the cowl? Heat and a pry bar or just a pry bar or another idea?
Noting wrong with a tool that provides brute force in order to reach the desired outcome.
I thought of another brute force method that is slower and more controlled while sitting in bed last night. It involves hydraulics.
Originally Posted by FinnishStroker
Theres also a crappy parts T4 install here at FTE..
Have you checked it out..? 😂
Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
I didn’t get the joke at first.
There’s nothing crappy about your install. I have been following along cheering for you.
FinnishStroker, I agree with RacinJasonWV. There is nothing crappy about your custom build at all. I bet all these commercial T4 kits started the same way as yours.
Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
Noob, I’m glad that my recommendation for downpipe fitting was not necessarily required in your case. Mine wanted to hit everything! But that was probably mostly due to me not cutting the exhaust back far enough to begin with. Tight fit to the valve cover isn’t it? It was for me anyways.
Yeah I'm glad too. Definitely sound advice in your procedures to do so though. I did have to remove the bolt that holds the ground strap to the passenger side head. The smaller 4" v-band flange on the end of my downpipe also helped squeeze through the gap between the head and the firewall. No corrections or additions to your document that I can think of so far. Good job!
The cowl area where the Turbonator's vane actuator contacts has been massaged. This is the view from directly underneath.
View of massaged cowl area from the driver's side.
Up pipes installed. Rear engine lifting bracket removed as per RacinJasonWV's instructions. The earth strap that used to go to the rear of the head has been relocated to one of the bolts that used to hold the bracket.
DPS sent a new steel drive pressure sensor line to install in place of the copper one. Sensor and line installed.
Another view of the drive pressure sensor and line.
I have a question for the braintrust: The gasket that came with the CSD kit is for a split/twin scroll T4. The Turbonator is NOT a splt/twin scroll housing. Should I trim the gasket to remove the middle bit lest it burns off and finds its way into the turbine blades?
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
