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23 years, 81K miles, and still on the OEM Kelsey Hayes pads, rotors, calipers, slide pins, & boots originally installed at time of assembly in 1999 on the KTP production plant floor.
The only brake item I've changed is the brake fluid. Just because. And nothing fancy either. Just Motorcraft DOT 3.
You exposed the secret to brake part longevity.
Take every opportunity to keep the feet off of any pedal on the floor for as much as possible, and the turn of the century OEM parts will last a long time.
Not so sure about today's parts made by unvetted, unknown, unidentified suppliers in China, who could be selling below spec rejects from OEM contractors in China. Integrity in business has always been low, but every year it seems we learn that it is indeed possible to go even lower.
OMG!!!!! OMG!!!!! OMG!!!!!
I'm going to have to print this post out and frame it for my wall. Never, never in my life did I think I was going to correct a Y2K post. Never.
Abex brake pads
TRW/KelseyHayes rotors
Akebono Calipers, Brackets, and Pins.
Being a '99, it has the original design of front caliper boots, which, IMO, were the best design. And the Olive color anti-corrosion finish on the brackets and calipers is better than the subsequent gold finish.
I'm going to have to print this post out and frame it for my wall. Never, never in my life did I think I was going to correct a Y2K post. Never.
Abex brake pads
TRW/KelseyHayes rotors
Akebono Calipers, Brackets, and Pins.
Being a '99, it has the original design of front caliper boots, which, IMO, were the best design. And the Olive color anti-corrosion finish on the brackets and calipers is better than the subsequent gold finish.
OMG!!!!! OMG!!!!! OMG!!!!!
Jack is slumming down here in the 7.3L ghetto!
What brought you downstairs?
Did you hear a brake squeal in the basement?
Wish you'd pop in down here more often.
Note the "KH" on my caliper, for Kelsey Hayes.
Pad design comparison:
The pad to my caliper shown above is the top pad depicted in the photo below (I removed it to inspect it about 6 years ago).
The pad on the bottom in the photo below is for the Akebono design caliper of F-250/350/Excursion models.
By the way, for anyone reading who doesn't know who Jack is... he was a test engineer for the company who supplied brake parts to the Ford Super Duty program for some model year genres. (eg.. the 2005 up brakes). But he worked at the brake company for years prior to 2005.
In other words, Jack is a brake expert. I'm merely a thorn in his side for the last couple of decades, and I'm getting duller every year.
My favorite Jack post was one time some spy shooters caught some pre-production vehicle testers taking the bra off of the dashboard, and got a good shot of what the new dash was going to look like (I believe it was for the 2005).
Jack quipped "That tester isn't going to have a job anymore", and to this day, I still wonder if that tester was in fact testing brake performance, and if he/she did in fact get fired over that incident.
Crap, I forgot what version of truck you actually had, a real Superduty. This is what happens when you don't visit.
Your right; I'm wrong. Canceling that order for the picture frame .....
The Akebono calipers were from 1999 to 2004 Superduty Excursion/F250/F350 brakes and TRW calipers from 2005 on. I started working in '97 for the '99 launch. But worked on many Ford models from '84, including the Ranger launch. Many, many years with the Ranger/Bronco II/Aerostar platform. There were a lot of Ford models where we supplied brake pads. Escorts up to F-350 DRW. Prior to that, my life was in formulation of air brake linings, such as 3030-197 and 931-162.
Whenever Ford gave us prototypes instead of mules, everything new had to be covered up by agreement. Pulling back the curtain was not an option for anyone, no matter how minor. If you got into an accident with one, it had to be taken back to your shop, hidden, and wait for a Ford contractor to take it back to the mother ship. We never crunched a Ford vehicle, but we did take out a prototype Chrysler LH "Concorde" in LA. That got me to fly overnight from NJ to LA. And to send a test driver home.
Started taking it apart last night. Yesterday the last of the parts I knew I needed arrived.
Weird pitting on rotors only on the inside. Assuming this is rust pitting from sitting outside over winter. Passenger side Drivers side.
Both sides the wheel bearing seal has been leaking. Not enough that it’s been dripping and easy to identify on a visual, but enough to contaminate the e-brake shoes.
Greasy, Grimy, Gack.
Passengers side shoes are definitely more worn.
Going to pick up the brake lines as well. Everything else will be new, might as well be 100%
Back on its wheels and test drive / break in on seating the brake pads was done today.
I could not get it to shudder under braking.
Feels better through the pedal, like a more firm feel. That could just be in my head to justify the $$$ spent.
Definitely has better stopping power ( that’s not in my head) Since I’m cash poor, and receipt rich right now I’m gonna hold off on Yellowstuff pads for the front at the moment. I’ve depleted the maintenance fund for the year.
Yesterday we “were” headed to the property for a week to meet the electrical contractor. Trailer on the back for the first time since the brakes were done.
Shudder is gone. I do declare that issue is behind me now.
Update on the AC.
Spoke with a local AC shop. He suggested that possibly the coil for engagement of the clutch is getting weak and when heat soaked doesn’t pull as good as when cooler, and that RPM’s may help it engage. Kinda explains the cutting out when coasting on long downhills and kicking in once I get back on the pedal.
Checked the clutch gap and was at about .060, pulled the shim and now sitting at .025 and clutch cycles as it should.
Fast forward to yesterday and 20 minutes into the trip, AC cuts out and starts pumping hot air into the truck. Get pulled over and pop the hood to check. Clutch is not engaging. Wiggle some wires and click. Wiggle some more and find that it’s this plug. Cleaned up the connection and a bit of dielectric and this issue is fixed.
Back on the road.
4r100
I posted a thread looking for some quick diagnosis, but long story short direct drive clutch pack has started to slip. 2-1/2 hours into our 6 hour trip.
I have an appointment for 7:30 on Tuesday morning with Summit Performance Transmission.
It won’t be cheap to replace, $5,500.00 installed, but a damn sight cheaper than taking on payments for a newer truck.
Once I get it back I’ll post up the build sheet for the trans. He was explaining the build to me and guarantee’s for up to 500hp for 2 year’s unlimited miles.
Kinda felt like Charlie Brown… transgo tugger wha wha wa, steel six tooth planetary wha wha wa, raybestos green wha wha wa, 5 something pump wha wha wa, billet torque converter cause wha wha wa.
Kinda like taking a drink from fire hose. Yup, I got some of it, but most went right on by.
That’s because everything said in that video is gibberish. The guy is a professional narrator who has done many engineering presentations where he had no clue what he was talking about. He finally made that video as a parody.
Also, only noobs call it the internet. Us l33t surfers call it the intarwebz.
That’s because everything said in that video is gibberish. The guy is a professional narrator who has done many engineering presentations where he had no clue what he was talking about. He finally made that video as a parody.
Also, only noobs call it the internet. Us l33t surfers call it the intarwebz.
That’s because everything said in that video is gibberish. The guy is a professional narrator who has done many engineering presentations where he had no clue what he was talking about. He finally made that video as a parody.
Also, only noobs call it the internet. Us l33t surfers call it the intarwebz.
sorry I more or less gave up when Nutscrape (netscape) was no longer available... i hate windows.
Been struggling with AC output temps so yesterday I took on the task of cleaning the condenser and straightening out the bent fins.
Napa only had a multi with 5 combs. 15 being their finest. Didn’t fit obviously since our condensers are 18. Since mine wasn’t too bad I did it with a small screwdriver one fin at a time. That took too much time but quicker than waiting for the tool from Amazon.
Today I took on the challenge of cleaning the evaporator. Some of the lower bolts are definitely a brail operation. Thanks to @Sous for his video which I watched twice before taking it on.
Once I got it opened up I was somewhat disappointed with how clean it was, meaning not much to be cleaned, not much expected gains in efficiency. I did find signs of a critter being in there at one point as there was some shredded rag.
Put it all back together and went for a road test.
Our last trip down from the property and ambient temperature was around 95-100°f and vent temp was in the high 60’s.
Road test today netted a yield of 44°f however ambient is around 75° so not an apples to apples comparison but encouraging.
