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Boost leak check was eventful. Now I know what people mean.
Popped when I was on the passenger side checking CAC to Spyder. Put a dent in the drywall 10 feet away, and scared the 💩 outta me. 1 minute sooner and I would have been in the line of fire. Was testing at 20psi.
Had to replace the hose clamp.
Got it all buttoned up and fired. Now have a CEL. Been so long since I’ve run a scan that my tablet is completely dead. Inside sipping a coffee while it charges then out to find the culprit.
Figured I’d post how I manage to get my engine bay lit up nicely.
I have a ton of fluorescent lights in my shop but with the cclb I find that I can’t backed up far enough and with the hood up indirect lighting with lots of shadows is all I can manage.
500 watt Halogen throws lots of light and as an added bonus keeps your back warm in the winter months.
Just replace, to much stuff that can go wrong when removing broken bolts. And if you do install a new WP dab the bolt threads with some anti seize for the future.
Just replace, to much stuff that can go wrong when removing broken bolts. And if you do install a new WP dab the bolt threads with some anti seize for the future.
Already out. Replacement on order and will go pick up after lunch.
Had to make a pulley holder to get the clutch fan off.
Old thermostat is opened up for the flush. Only got one of the block plugs out so far. Drivers side. Passenger side still to go. I threw in the towel for today.
Longest prep time for a coolant flush ever. Should have been done by 10am. It’ll be next weekend before I can make it out to the shop to get it done.
It’s all back together and pressure tested the cooling system.
Had a leak at the thermostat housing flange. Cheap tin that reminds me of Chevy valve covers. Fixed it the same way. Removed housing and used a little persuasion with a hammer and punch on the underside to get it a little concave and put more pressure on the o-ring. Worked like a charm. Second test was leak free.
Could not for the life of me get enough leverage to crack the block drain on the passenger side. Had to pull the starter to get that one out.
Ran the garden hose into the degas bottle with the block drains open, engine running, for about 1/2 hr for the flush.
FPG is showing 58lbs at idle and dips slightly when I punched the throttle. So far just stationary testing.
It currently has a storage policy for insurance, road insurance goes on at the end of this month.
Looking forward to seeing the spool improvement with the KC turbine wheel.
Had a leak at the thermostat housing flange. Cheap tin that reminds me of Chevy valve covers. Fixed it the same way. Removed housing and used a little persuasion with a hammer and punch on the underside to get it a little concave and put more pressure on the o-ring. Worked like a charm. Second test was leak free.
Was this a brand new thermostat housing that leaked?
Or was it the one that was on there previously?
Can you show a photo of your hammer and punch trick that fixed it?
A facsimile flange would suffice... just to help us visualize your technique.
I borrowed some images from Amazon as a set up for the hand sketch of what I found and how I fixed my issue.
Underside of housing.
Close up of lip / pressure area for o-ring sealing
Topside of the housing.
Once I had completed the flush and brought it up to temperature I did the final visual check to ensure there were no leaks. It was weeping at the housing to water pump connection which surprised me because of the O-ring there.
Took it apart to investigate and found the issue was twofold. First the housing was crowned, second the bolt locations were dished down.
The bolts were bottoming out before enough clamping pressure was being applied to the O-ring.
I simply flipped the housing over and gently used a pin punch to correct the dished areas at the bolt locations and went a little further to create a crush area to exert further pressure on the O-ring. Then I focused on straightening out the crown.
Put it back together and no leaks.
I’m going to be keeping a close eye on this and if it gives me any troubles it will be replaced.
While doing some research I also found this on Amazon. Looks like it will reinforce the clamping area nicely.
The billet housing from riffraff is not much more than that reinforcement, if you decide to go that route. Good save on the existing housing though. I've had to do similar with a ball peen hammer on transmission pans and such.
Your handwriting is a lot better than mine, sir.
The billet housing from riffraff is not much more than that reinforcement, if you decide to go that route. Good save on the existing housing though. I've had to do similar with a ball peen hammer on transmission pans and such.
Your handwriting is a lot better than mine, sir.
RDP billet is $65cdn plus shipping and taxes but that is what I’ll replace with when the time comes.
Crazy amounts for shipping. USPS covers the taxes and duty fees, if I go UPS they hit me on the tail end with the landed cost. Headed to Mom’s in May down in Tri-Cities. Gonna check shipping cost to there instead.
Not sure if that link to Amazon redirects you to .com but my link was to .ca so $33cdn for the Dorman part.
