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Looking forward to putting it to the test next weekend.
6 hrs behind the wheel yesterday pulling the trailer up to the property.
Truck certainly behaves differently through the corners and over the bumps with the new shocks, bushings, and stabilizer.
Shudder Braking issue…
light pedal pressure, nothing,
mid pedal pressure, shudder is present, but has been tamed down.
heavy pedal pressure, smooth’s out.
Unloaded road test in my neighborhood was all good no matter what I did with the pedal pressure.
First stop for wife and dogs break, got out and checked EVERYTHING with the infrared. Rotors, rims, tires, trailer hubs.
Passenger side rear rotor on the truck is running 45°f hotter is the only anomaly. 97° d, 140°ish, p.
Next stop, 80-85°f. Not crazy hot like smoking but warmer on a consistent basis. 135° d, 215° p.
Something is hanging up.
Takes me back in my mind to SSJ’s post… sometimes a warped rear rotor will transfer through.
Got some more work to do when I get back home, and not disappointed one bit on what I just spent on the front end.
A couple three years ago I had a front caliper that would get stuck in the braking position, ONLY when the 5th wheel was attached and I was in traffic. Smooth sailing in all conditions when the truck was unloaded and I was steady moving even with the 5th wheel.
I discovered this condition 4 hours from home and replaced the caliper and hose at the campsite and later replaced all of the front brake components when we returned home.
You could very well be dealing with a similar condition on the rear.
@F350towing was the parking brake fully disengaged? What was the caliper temperature?
E brake was fully disengaged. At least at the pedal.
I’ve been pretty diligent after there was an issue years back with the bracket being bent, not fully disengaged, but e brake light was out. Let’s say there was some smoke that alerted me to the problem after a short trip.
My wife’s van is doing something similar. I won’t bore y’all with the details but sometimes it will shake during braking (normally at higher speeds), sometimes it is perfectly smooth, comes and goes. I feel like a rotor is warping a bit then going back into shape. I’ve been carrying the temp gun and do not see anything strange with any caliper or rotor temp. Think I’m gonna start swinging the parts hammer. Just guess a side and change everything on that corner. Then proceed to the other of it doesn’t fix it.
Point of my rambling… guess I’m watching your thread for clues that may help me as well.
This should make the track bar bushing’s easier to do. Couldn’t turn it down for $150.00 off Facebook Marketplace.
As far as the brake temperature checks go…
no temperature anomalies on the way home all four corners on the truck. Shudder is still present under mid pedal braking. I can push through it and it does smooth out significantly with lead foot braking.
I’ve got 5 weeks until our next trip so rear brakes will be done by then.
Onto another subject, AC.
Ranger valve is working great, never has the AC blown colder when it’s working.
Usually from my experience when under heavy load the AC will kick out to preserve power on long uphill pulls. I had the opposite yesterday. While coasting on the downhills the AC would kick out until I got back onto the throttle. Worked like a champ all the rest of the time.
Wanted some input/insight before taking it in for AC service.
Dammit!! Why don't deals like that hydraulic press come up around where I am?!
The other day, a member here picked up a 1.5 running hp (not "peak") belt driven all cast deep arm Made in USA MK Diamond MK-101 wet tile saw, with stand, for $10 on Facebook Marketplace.
I've never been on Facebook (Facebook won't let people who refuse to join Facebook see what is on Facebook) but dang.... the classified ads on Facebook seem to have incredible deals.
