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I have the powerstop pads and rotors on mine also. Not the calipers though. They have worked great for me. I got them before they went way up in price though.
I put Detroit axle front end parts under my 03 Ford ranger and they are junk. Less then a year later ever rubber boot was already dry rotted and tore. Ball joint tie rod ends. Sway bar bushings all of them. Hopefully there brakes are better.
If you need calipers, I strongly recommend just buying them locally with a no-hassle, instant return policy for about the same price. I will swap a caliper in a heartbeat if I see deteriorated rubber and of course if the stick or leak. My experience with the red calipers has not been good and warranty replacement would be a PITA.
Same goes for rotors. No questions asked exchange for 3yrs from autozone, Napa has lifetime warrant options and I’ve never seen one fo this.
If you need calipers, I strongly recommend just buying them locally with a no-hassle, instant return policy for about the same price. I will swap a caliper in a heartbeat if I see deteriorated rubber and of course if the stick or leak. My experience with the red calipers has not been good and warranty replacement would be a PITA.
Same goes for rotors. No questions asked exchange for 3yrs from autozone, Napa has lifetime warrant options and I’ve never seen one do this.
Jason,
I did take your earlier post into consideration when making my decisions on what components to purchase.
Napa rotors are $242 each plus the 12% for our government .
Calipers are $204 + 12%.
Powerstop on Amazon was $349.00 cheaper. I just did the math. That is significant enough to justify in my head, and leaves enough in my wallet to replace either and still break even.
I know you care, and thank you for your input. I have been forewarned.
I’m not sure what happens when I post a link for Amazon for you guys to view.
When I click a link that you guys down in the lower 48 post up it automatically redirects me to .CA not .COM If you don’t get the redirect from .CA to .COM then you are comparing Cdn pricing to US = 30%ish difference.
Plus you are comparing SRW front to DRW rear, not apples to apples.
Lots of stuff you guys have access to is not available to me. Don’t ask me why. Thanks for the link though.
I have been running slotted or drilled/slotted rotors on all of my vehicles for the past 25+ years with good results. Well, until recently...
I installed slotted rotors on the truck with HAWK SD pads. At the same time, I installed slotted rotors on the Subaru with EBC Yellow Stuff pads that I bought on sale for cheap. Turned out the EBC YS pads did not like the slotted rotors.
Pad material started to build up in the slots and cause a vibration between 35 and 45 MPH while braking.
This is the first time I have seen this in all of the combinations of pads and rotors I have installed and run. I went with Bosch Quiet Cast (non-slotted) rotors and pads which were dramatically reduced in price and am happy with the results.
I don't know if the issue was the EBC pads, the size of the rotors or the combination of the EBC pads and rotors, but they did not play well together. Out of all of the no name pads and slotted rotors I have used, this has never happened. The same model of slotted rotors on rhe truck works great with HAWK SD and the previous slotted rotors did very well with HAWK LTS. Clearly there is a size difference between the truck and Subaru parts though, so maybe that is it.
I did like the EBC YS stopping power while installed on the Subaru, but out of all the cross country travels towing our 5th wheel I have found the HAWK pads to be more than adequate. Even out in MT, ID, CO, etc.
A bit more detail regarding the EBC pads and slotted rotors not playing nice together is in the links below. Maybe something to keep an eye on.
just a "how it feels" report on the Detroit rotors and pads on my excursion.
so far, Excellent.
smooth, and got rid of the pulsation it had before.
guessing the truck has about 150 miles on it since installed.
purposely got it up to 75 mph, and used light pedal, good brake effort was felt.
got off, and let it coast down, I habitually let my vehicles slow down to 35 mph or less before I use the brakes.... I can get 75k miles or more on brakes if I am the only driver.
I habitually let my vehicles slow down to 35 mph or less before I use the brakes.... I can get 75k miles or more on brakes if I am the only driver.
23 years, 81K miles, and still on the OEM Kelsey Hayes pads, rotors, calipers, slide pins, & boots originally installed at time of assembly in 1999 on the KTP production plant floor.
The only brake item I've changed is the brake fluid. Just because. And nothing fancy either. Just Motorcraft DOT 3.
You exposed the secret to brake part longevity.
Take every opportunity to keep the feet off of any pedal on the floor for as much as possible, and the turn of the century OEM parts will last a long time.
Not so sure about today's parts made by unvetted, unknown, unidentified suppliers in China, who could be selling below spec rejects from OEM contractors in China. Integrity in business has always been low, but every year it seems we learn that it is indeed possible to go even lower.
no matter how much I harp at my daughter, she drives up to the stop sign and then hits the brakes.
I just took about a kilobuck out of her checking account to replace the brakes on her car, she is a US Mail delivery employee... has to use her own car on the rural routes though....
