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Coming up on time to climb under the hood to get started on fuel pressure gauge install and turbine wheel upgrade with 360° rebuild.
Looking at the crazy crowded valley can I eliminate the AIH relay and move the GPR relay into its place to clear up some space for the fuel pressure sending unit? Already have deleted the AIH and have Clay’s code eliminator.
Seems easy enough but am I missing something.
Went to the tech folder and the only one for GPR relocates to the inner fender.
It has been a while since I’ve had a close look in there but may be able to cut down the mounting bracket to make even more room.
Yes you can. I deleted aih relay and moved the gpr relay to inner fender beside starter relay. Freed up all kinds of room in tbe valley for activities. You could also just move it forward to aih relay spot like you wet mentioning.
Yes you can. I deleted aih relay and moved the gpr relay to inner fender beside starter relay. Freed up all kinds of room in tbe valley for activities. You could also just move it forward to aih relay spot like you were mentioning.
Been a while since I’ve been under the hood looking at things. My forgetter is getting better and my rememberer is broke.
Your saying that the AIH is in the forward position closer to the fuel bowl/ filter housing.
No problems then. Removing that will give me lots of room for the FP sending unit.
Your saying that the AIH is in the forward position closer to the fuel bowl/ filter housing.
No problems then. Removing that will give me lots of room for the FP sending unit.
I would probably move the AIH relay battery power supply to double up on the GPR relay if removing the AIH. My understanding is they are both from the same source power directly from the battery with fusible links. By relocating, it would keep the hot wire secure to prevent accidental grounding. I feel like this is more secure than just cutting and heat shrink.
I would probably move the AIH relay battery power supply to double up on the GPR relay if removing the AIH. My understanding is they are both from the same source power directly from the battery with fusible links. By relocating, it would keep the hot wire secure to prevent accidental grounding. I feel like this is more secure than just cutting and heat shrink.
I was curious as to what to do with that power lead.
Thanks for answering that question before I asked it.
It’s what I would do. Others may have a better suggestion.
I left my AIH relay in place as a end point for the wiring (deleted wires going to AIH).
Also figured it could be used as a GPR replacement in a pinch. Of course I’ve since realized that crossing the posts with a screwdriver would also work as a temporary solution.
It is a bit tight to the FP sensor. So the AIH relay may get removed next time I’m feeling frisky.
When I did mine on the main power I took harness apart and cut the 2 tees off where the gpr and aih relay main power are spliced in. Then heat shrinked taped and reloomed.
I have an 8mm 12 point wrench so have the turbine and compressor housings off. Wheel is on the bench. Need a 8mm 12point socket for the next step. Wrench won’t do the trick here.
All bolts are removed now. Had to buy a 1/4” drive so it would fit inside the centre section to get the lower bolts on the turbine housing.
How difficult should it be to separate the centre section from the housing. 1/2 hour now and no movement. Prying, wedging, dead blow hammer, heat. Hasn’t moved at all.
I Beat the crap out of it, mindful not to damage the housing, then ended up using a chisel to get them apart. There is maybe 3/16” lip on the centre section pressure fit/ rusted into the turbine housing.
They almost don’t even have to come apart if it wasn’t for the oil seal groove that needs to be cleaned.
And just in case you haven’t seen the difference from stock to KC 300. Man it is impressive in person. The pictures I’ve seen in the past don’t do it justice.
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