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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 02:00 PM
  #166  
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Man, you just took my thunder...... both ways.

My post, "Crank, No start".

Yes, you can pre-lube from the "test port" with an adapter. My plan also is to fill under the oil cooler screen, the top of the HPOP, the branch tubes while rotating the engine, then use the starter with the glow plugs out. You need to energize the IPR to confirm cranking oil through the oil rails. When done, install the plugs in top of the injector oil manifolds.

I have a pump to do this, but any 25-30psi sprayer will work. It's done on a lot of racing motors.

I'm also going to use the test port fitting as my oil pressure sender location, and possibly a oil bypass filter tie in if I put my oil bypass back on this truck.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 02:07 PM
  #167  
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I don't think that's necessary. You have an oil slick on all the parts. This is sufficient and lubricates the short time until the oil has reached everywhere when cranking
You could crank 3x 8 seconds with the starter and connect a gauge to the oil pressure switch port.
I let the engine crank without glow plugs during initial start-up until oil pressure is built up.
once you have installed the engine, crank 3x 8 seconds without FICM relay
 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 02:12 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
Man, you just took my thunder...... both ways.

My post, "Crank, No start".

Yes, you can pre-lube from the "test port" with an adapter. My plan also is to fill under the oil cooler screen, the top of the HPOP, the branch tubes while rotating the engine, then use the starter with the glow plugs out. You need to energize the IPR to confirm cranking oil through the oil rails. When done, install the plugs in top of the injector oil manifolds.

I have a pump to do this, but any 25-30psi sprayer will work. It's done on a lot of racing motors.
It was an afterthought and I have all my parts mounted and torqued. Can I also fill the HPOP sump through the turbo drain hole?
I want the fitting but they want me to wait until Saturday for delivery. I’m probably not ready for first start by then anyway...


Originally Posted by Hartwig
I don't think that's necessary. You have an oil slick on all the parts. This is sufficient and lubricates the short time until the oil has reached everywhere when cranking
You could crank 3x 8 seconds with the starter and connect a gauge to the oil pressure switch port.
I let the engine crank without glow plugs during initial start-up until oil pressure is built up.
once you have installed the engine, crank 3x 8 seconds without FICM relay
I know this is acceptable but acceptable isn’t always acceptable, you have seen the lengths we go to! I used Clevite Bearing Guard assembly lube on all surfaces except the cylinder walls where I used a light coat of engine oil.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 02:26 PM
  #169  
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I notice that you are just as nervous as I when first time switching the starter
 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 02:29 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by Hartwig
I notice that you are just as nervous as I when first time switching the starter

 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 02:35 PM
  #171  
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I have to give a shout out to White Bear Lake Ford...I called them this morning asking why they sent me an IPR with the old style screen without the reinforcements and he bagged one up right then and mailed it 3 day shipping for nothing. That’s customer service!!!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 02:36 PM
  #172  
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Did you fill the oil cooler sump before putting the cooler in?

Pete has talked about the benefits of adding a gallon of the oil through the oil filter housing to get the reservoir filled. I'm doing that too. Once you are sealed up it hard to any of that for the HPO. Other then that, I think you going to have to do the common first startup.

The engine test port, if you wanted to wait, would get you the galley filled. Many have just done as Hartwig says. Not my way on any of my motors.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 02:45 PM
  #173  
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No, I got excited about my pretty oil cooler paint job and rebuild and forgot to fill it. I did clean my stainless sump screen and stick it in though. I always fill the engine through the oil filter housing with the last gallon. I think this plus priming a couple of gallons through the test port and I’ll be good. I ordered a M14x1.5x3/8” barb adapter for it and will pick up a little pump sprayer on the way home today.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 05:09 PM
  #174  
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You were giggling, weren't you?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 05:19 PM
  #175  
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A little bit!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 09:26 PM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by SmackDaddy
No, I got excited about my pretty oil cooler paint job and rebuild and forgot to fill it.
I'm excited for you dude! I can't wait to see this engine mounted in the truck! Even though you're not loaning out your engine stand anymore.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 10:02 PM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by Fuzzpuss
I'm excited for you dude! I can't wait to see this engine mounted in the truck! Even though you're not loaning out your engine stand anymore.
I’d hate to have to send my homeboy Chuck Norris all the way to north Texas to come confiscate it...Walker Texas Ranger doesn’t play...

I got the exhaust manifolds on, now going for the up pipes.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 10:39 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by SmackDaddy
I’d hate to have to send my homeboy Chuck Norris all the way to north Texas to come confiscate it...Walker Texas Ranger doesn’t play...

I got the exhaust manifolds on, now going for the up pipes.
Are you mounting the engine with the intake and turbo installed?

On a side note, I have a neighbor who said he saw 'ol Chuck get the hell beaten out of him in a Fort Worth bar by a big off duty cop who got the first swing. What else ya got?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 11:50 PM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by Fuzzpuss
Are you mounting the engine with the intake and turbo installed?

On a side note, I have a neighbor who said he saw 'ol Chuck get the hell beaten out of him in a Fort Worth bar by a big off duty cop who got the first swing. What else ya got?
No, I just have it mocked up for right now, I’ll pull most of it off to keep it low profile going in. That damn oil pan makes it have to go up a foot more just to clear the crossmember. Too bad the crossmember can’t be removed and installed after sliding her in place...
I’m going to wrap the up pipes and collector real pretty and leave them in one unit like I do the other y-pipe. It will go in last and be nice and lined up where it needs to go and I’ll make reference marks with my punch at the joints. I got my harmonic damper bolts today and other than the IPR screen kit and oil pressure test port adapter I’m done with parts for now!
She’s just about ready!!!
 
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Old Feb 19, 2020 | 12:01 AM
  #180  
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