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no, I was not asking about the fuel line joint, mine is stock and no leaks. I was referring to the lower block section, some might call a girdle. The joint where this lower section bolts to the block proper, that joint has leaked on mine since it was new. I was curious if there was a sealant that is recommended for that. I have used some loctite compounds in similar situations and guessed that might be the case for our 6l's. I hope I never get to fix that leak but you never know.
Originally Posted by SmackDaddy
The banjo bolt? Have you replaced the crush washers?
He's asking What product if any did you use to seal the bed plate / upper oil pan joints?
He's asking What product if any did you use to seal the bed plate / upper oil pan joints?
I was working and trying to read through, sorry. I didn’t know the term girdle!
I used a very light bead of Motorcraft grey silicone down both bedplate seals and on each end then before the front and rear covers went on I put a dab on each end per the service manual. If you use it on the sides don’t use so much it smashes out inside the crank case, just a super thin bead and new gaskets of course.
Do not use the anaerobic red Permatex, it won't cure properly. I used the anaerobic initially, but when I switched to another crankshaft I found the red just didn't cure properly as it is supposed to. Talking to Permatex tech service about it makes you feel like a little kid who just broke something. It's totally the wrong application according to them, the manufacturer of the product. They offered other Permatex products to use as a gasket skin, but none of them are formulated as a non-oil foaming RTV like the TA-31 is, and they admitted that.
It can be on both sides of the gasket; it's formulated for HEUI diesel.
I use for engines and transmissions:
Elring Dirko-S Profi Press HT
or
Victor Reinz REINZOSIL
very clear recommendation to buy from me. The products can be applied generously and harden completely. So you need not be afraid if something of it swells inside.
I have used these two articles 100 times in engines and transmissions, both very good products, I think you can find them in the USA as well
I've always used Permatex Ultra Black on valve covers, front covers, oil pan, diff covers, etc with great success. And it's always in stock at the local chain stores.
I've always used Permatex Ultra Black on valve covers, front covers, oil pan, diff covers, etc with great success. And it's always in stock at the local chain stores.
For projects like this that are planned out for months the Motorcraft grey silicone is not hard to come by. Just grab one if the half tubes for the caulk gun and it will last the whole project. No way was I using anything but recommended sealant on the bedplate, oil pan and front cover because I don’t plan on doing it again. Especially the bedplate! I think it was about $12 for the tube and it’s great stuff. Not knocking the Ultra Black but not for this project.
Considering how leaky these bed plates are, I think I'll try something different than what's recommended by ford, if and when the time comes.
I don’t think it’s the sealant that is causing the leaks, I think it’s the application (or lack) of it and how clean the person is prepping the surfaces. I’ve been around a while in many industries and there are a lot of people that are not as detail oriented as come of us are especially when assembling an engine. I highly doubt many shops are taking the time to clean the surfaces and apply sealant like some of us do. They slap these things together like a cave man and bolt it up. I’m not saying the Permatex Ultra Black isn’t good, it’s just not what I would use when dropping $8-9k on a rebuild. I’ll be honest after all this and update as the years go by.
Considering how leaky these bed plates are, I think I'll try something different than what's recommended by ford, if and when the time comes.
Chris, actually the Ford procedure is to use the O-ring gasket by itself, then add a dab of the RTV to the places where castings meet when adding the front and rear covers. From an OE perspective they are to be installed by themselves, dry.
Its within the aftermarket service world that a skin coat of sealant has been adapted.
The early engines had some poorly machined surfaces noted early by Keith Browning.
Some have used the anaerobic, I found it doesn’t cure there. I used the Ford product and told Mac he should too. Permatex does not have an RTV that does not promote oil foaming, which is something we need to avoid with a design that uses motor oil as a hydraulic fluid.
I doubt when the assembly line was on bedplates they were rubbing the sealing surfaces with white Sontara aerospace wipes with acetone until the wipe is completely white. That’s what I did on the block, heads, any sealing surface where a gasket or seal is going. I’m going to lose my mind if I develop a leak anywhere.
I was just cross referencing sources on sealants and came to the same conclusion on foaming of fluids due to using the wrong sealant. Transfer cases, diffs etc too.
Chris, the application of the HEUI with the 7.3L caused the development of the TA-31 RTV. The leaching from the silicone (as RTV or from the application of it onto gaskets) interferes with the anti-foaming additives.
The modern engine assembly line for the past two decades has been close to a white room environment. They have HEPA filters everywhere, everything gets washed. That's why I went F******* nuts when I watched the Ford video of the CAT facility doing the engine rebuilds. The initial milling of the bedplates was too coarse, despite the thinking the O-ring would take care of it since it was in the groove.
Tomorrow is my first day off in eight days so it’s time to knock this project out. I got a few items in while I was gone. Turbo Performance Products custom made my girl a red turbo blanket and titanium exhaust manifold blankets. I picked up my Cerakoted parts this evening. Decided to go with a darker gunmetal color. He coated the stock manifolds, new BD manifolds, collector and just for Fuzzpuss...the bolt spacers. I got them bolted up and will wrap the pipes tomorrow.
My tail lights were on the truck when I bought it and recently I lost 3-4 LEDs on each side and the gasket was cracking. I decided to go with the black ones in the same model. My full replacement rear pipe bumper, cladding and front bumper will all get bedlined black soon so it will look nice. I am on the fence about the third brake light. I’ll leave it red for now. I am going to tinker with the old lights and see if I can replace or repair the LEDs that are not functioning. If anything I have spare lenses and reflectors.
Tomorrow I am insulating the entire firewall and AC box in preparation for the engine to slide back in her home. I have a punch list...
6.0 Rebuild Punch ListTorque exhaust manifolds
Flush cooling system before first start
Supplemental battery cables driver side
Wrap fuel lines with heat tape all the way to the frame
Harmonic damper bolts
Magnefine power steering filter
Mishimoto power steering cooler and build lines
Motorcraft Air deflectors install
Updated IPR screen swap
New Mishimoto swap tranny fittings/Fumoto
Build power steering hoses and cooler mounts
Firewall/AC air box insulation
Install manifold blankets
Prime oil system with 2 gallons through oil cooler test port
Install engine
Flush transfer case and fill with Motorcraft Mercon V (add a little Dextron for foaming per Sweeting)
Replace fuel and coolant filters
Install Beans sump
Skid plate cover plate
Rear bumper retrofit/backup light install
Paint bumpers and trim black or have bedlined
Beamtech LED headlight install
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