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Check your piston lands after the big hit. If you hit it hard enough to break a ring, you can damage the piston land.
I had a slight burr and contacted the owner of TEM and he instructed how to polish it out since it was minimal. I don’t understand why there’s not a smoother chamfer on the lands to aid in piston installation. These oiler retainers are fragile, not a thick ring like the first two.
Chamfer on the cylinder block. Some shops do that but it can depend on the gasket sealing ring. You don't want the ring (not the o-ring) to more exposed to combustion then the compressed edge.
Yeah, a slight burr isn’t an issue, easily dressed.
I'll be paying VERY close attention to this thread.
I hope everything works out for you this time, Smack, and I'm sure you do too!
Looking forward to more pics as well as your review of the brake/power steering changes when it's all said and done. And thanks for the lead on the lifters. Seriously considering pulling my engine to replace them...and the rear main seal while I'm at it. Mostly need to figure out what I'm going to do for an engine stand if I go that route.
Thirty years ago I would get excited getting the privilege to walk around a Ford engine assembly plant. Today you can see dozens of plants on YT, showing details the public has never seen back then. There are a lot of great videos, some plants more automated then others (higher productivity score). Mercedes and BMW have some of the most advanced factories, although the specialized engines have a higher hands on, not cost effective for the volume. Truck motors tend to have less automation, too.
Now you know my motivation for installing the winch on the hoist for the crank, heads and bedplate - more accurate control. And in the videos the engine stand, full rotation.
Thirty years ago I would get excited getting the privilege to walk around a Ford engine assembly plant. Today you can see dozens of plants on YT, showing details the public has never seen back then. There are a lot of great videos, some plants more automated then others (higher productivity score). Mercedes and BMW have some of the most advanced factories, although the specialized engines have a higher hands on, not cost effective for the volume. Truck motors tend to have less automation, too.
Now you know my motivation for installing the winch on the hoist for the crank, heads and bedplate - more accurate control. And in the videos the engine stand, full rotation.
Did you see my Jack inspired winch setup in the photos? I was going to use it for the crank but ended up straggling the stand and lowering it in by hand. It’s not that heavy but at least I have the winch for other things later on. I got the dyneema/spectra synthetic winch cable too. I will post more about it at some point.
I’m about to go back out and install the rest of my pistons and wait for UPS to show up with the overnighted ring kits. I wish these went im as smoothly as those guys made it look in your videos!
I don't know what you are using for a piston ring compressor. I know I have a particular hate for the band style compressors.
A lot of people I know like this one.
This is Ideal for this motor size but expensive, a tapered sleeve just like the videos. Resell on eBay.
These are good, I have used one.
I was going to mimic that in plastic but found it held without the need to use the worm clamp. Non-scratch and cheap!!! Home Depot plumbing ABS. While it was pipe, any flange close to the size works too.
Jack I am using the Lisle wrinkle band compressor you post. I just didn’t have it tight enough. I should have bought the solid tapered sleeve and been done but the machine shop recommended the Lisle wrinkle band, they said that’s all they use with no issues.
This is a great project. I'm sure you'll do the work professionally. I am very interested in the upgraded hydroboost because my camper with 6.5 metric tons brakes too badly. Would it be ok for you if I opened a separate thread for this?
Can you please explain to me why you put the block vertically and do not rotate around the transverse axis as usual?
I ordered the 3.74” ARP tapered piston install tool and 3 more sets of rings so I can just start with a clean slate. I can’t have peace of mind thinking the piston rings in the pistons I installed with that crappy wrinkle band tool. I pulled the pistons I had installed and cleaned up the bores really well and bagged it until Tuesday when my other ring sets and the install tool arrive.
I pulled my hydroboost and replaced the main piston seal, body seal and yellow orifice tube. On my model you have to cut the brake input shaft to replace those seals and weld it back on and I wasn’t fooling with that when I could slide the shaft forward and inspect the shaft seals from the inside. They looked great and the piston and spool valve were perfectly smooth with no wear marks.
