Rebuild Thread
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
They are beefy. Very thick walled and that collector is a chunk too. I was wondering the same about the reason they left that one gusset out on the driver’s side manifold. I’m going to call them up and see, inquisitive minds want to know.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
I just spoke with BD and they said the gusset isn’t needed on the driver manifold because it’s shorter and less prone to twisting with the other 3 gussets. The paint is just high temperature paint and will burn off soon after running. I finally got Cerakote guy to answer and he said he will blast and recoat the other manifolds and my new ones plus the collector so I’m going to have them dropped off tomorrow and pick them up Friday.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,420
Likes: 934
From: Fort Worth, TX
The raw cast iron looks good, I was thinking they has already been coated. I bet there's a cerakote color to match it.
It looks like BD changed the collector. It was aluminum in the kit I had a couple of years ago.
It looks like BD changed the collector. It was aluminum in the kit I had a couple of years ago.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
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From: Texas
Are you sure it was aluminum? Melting point is 600 degrees, I don’t think it wouldn’t last with the temperatures the y pipe sees.
Yeah Even if the guy does a crappy Cerakote job at least it will have some coating on it. I’m going to cut that firewall stud off flush with the nut while I have access and I ordered some firewall material to cover that old stuff and hopefully keep the cab a little cooler. At some point I’m insulating the whole truck like nicmike did and get the AC system flushed and recharged. These 105 degree Texas days are killer.
Yeah Even if the guy does a crappy Cerakote job at least it will have some coating on it. I’m going to cut that firewall stud off flush with the nut while I have access and I ordered some firewall material to cover that old stuff and hopefully keep the cab a little cooler. At some point I’m insulating the whole truck like nicmike did and get the AC system flushed and recharged. These 105 degree Texas days are killer.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,420
Likes: 934
From: Fort Worth, TX
Yeah Even if the guy does a crappy Cerakote job at least it will have some coating on it. I’m going to cut that firewall stud off flush with the nut while I have access and I ordered some firewall material to cover that old stuff and hopefully keep the cab a little cooler.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
Collector and manifolds are at the Cerakote shop today. He’s redoing the stockers AGAIN and blasting and coating the new ones. He said the Cerakote particles couldn’t get into the cast iron pores so the rust comes through...whatever, they are getting redone and Fuzzpuss HE’S COATING THE SPACERS just for you.
Mishimoto is honoring their lifetime warranty on my radiator and sending me a brand new upgraded unit since the thinner generation 1 does not cool correctly. I bought it in April 2017 so that is awesome customer service! I just split shipping with them.
Mishimoto is honoring their lifetime warranty on my radiator and sending me a brand new upgraded unit since the thinner generation 1 does not cool correctly. I bought it in April 2017 so that is awesome customer service! I just split shipping with them.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
what about those fuel lines to the rear of the heads, do you think there ought to be a support somewhere before the connection to the braided section? could set set up some vibration and fatigue? just say'in.
I think somewhere, way back, you said what you used to seal the lower block section to the upper, some type of locktite sealant was it?
I think somewhere, way back, you said what you used to seal the lower block section to the upper, some type of locktite sealant was it?
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
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From: Texas
It’s been on the engine almost a year before this rebuild. Right now it’s just mocked up, I’ll get around to all the final wire and hose rigging once the engine is back in. What about the rest? There is no voice inflection in text so you may have been just asking an honest question but keep in mind the way the internet is these days. All good brother.
What are you referring to with the Loctite?
I’ve been back at work 15-16 hours a day since Tuesday and will be on days off starting next Wednesday and will resume full work mode. I’m not much on tinkering an hour here and there!
What are you referring to with the Loctite?
I’ve been back at work 15-16 hours a day since Tuesday and will be on days off starting next Wednesday and will resume full work mode. I’m not much on tinkering an hour here and there!
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
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From: Texas
No offense taken. Do you have the same lines from the Strictly Diesel/Driven Diesel regulated return? Is your leak truly at the braid to hard line fitting or is your line or hose compromised? I’ve never had an issue. That fitting is a compression fitting, not sealed by threads but a tapered fitting so Loctite thread sealer would be a band aid. If it’s leaking at the fittings you either need to tighten the hell out of it or take it apart and check for irregularities in the compression areas. You may have trash or a scratch causing leakage. I’d call Strictly Diesel and they’ll probably send you replacement lines. I used Loctite thread sealer on the coolant return fitting threads in the rear of the heads and in the thermostat housing fittings. Never had any leakson coolant or fuel lines since I installed this kit a couple of years ago. I just used the regulator and rear hard lines to braided stainless lines and deleted the rest and build my own fuel system with a 6.7L pump and CAT 2 micron secondary filter.
Google search “AN Fitting leak repair”
Google search “AN Fitting leak repair”
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 195
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no, I was not asking about the fuel line joint, mine is stock and no leaks. I was referring to the lower block section, some might call a girdle. The joint where this lower section bolts to the block proper, that joint has leaked on mine since it was new. I was curious if there was a sealant that is recommended for that. I have used some loctite compounds in similar situations and guessed that might be the case for our 6l's. I hope I never get to fix that leak but you never know.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,420
Likes: 934
From: Fort Worth, TX
Collector and manifolds are at the Cerakote shop today. He’s redoing the stockers AGAIN and blasting and coating the new ones. He said the Cerakote particles couldn’t get into the cast iron pores so the rust comes through...whatever, they are getting redone and Fuzzpuss HE’S COATING THE SPACERS just for you.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
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From: Texas
I believe this is version 2.0. Shipping weight on the beer can gen1 was like 34# and this one is 47 so maybe much heavier. I know the core is thicker.