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What grey did you use on the valve covers? I’m not looking forward to repainting the valve covers, but not happy with the black I painted them. They are a little rough from the reman shop.
What grey did you use on the valve covers? I’m not looking forward to repainting the valve covers, but not happy with the black I painted them. They are a little rough from the reman shop.
I sanded with 150 grit, wiped with laquer thinner, VHT Flameproof primer then three top coats of VHT Flameproof Flat Aluminum, a coat of VHT Flameproof Satin Clear then baked in the gas grill just 30 minutes on 250 so I didn’t screw up the inside epoxy or the label. It’s very durable. HTM101 used the same on his engine build.
Originally Posted by Hartwig
But why heat-resistant paint? Except for exhaust and turbo, nothing gets hot, does it?
But why not??? Haha. It’s great paint, why not use the same on the block and everything so it is the same color? The top of the engine around the turbo gets hot and around the exhaust manifolds.
Yet, the paint thing can get out of hand. All aluminum parts painted, unless it's a restoration I don't leave them bare.
Hartwig, I used 500ºF engine paint and 2000ºF pain on the manifold, and turbo too. For me Duplicolor engine 500F on most parts, 2000F Rustoleum on the exhaust parts w/clear. Barbi'd as high as I could get them.
The problem for any time I have ever done cast exhaust manifolds that have been used is the rust coming back. Blasting, dipping, whatever, if there is a molecule of oxidation left it will regrow. I expect some on these manifolds.
I removed the VC label, didn't care for it. But with the hits they took at CAT, gloss shows everything up. To the point I was thinking hammertone.
I’m headed back to get these manifolds Cerakoted again. He’s going to make sure he does the prep this time.
Jack did you take your belt tensioner apart to paint it? I have a brand new one and might leave it bare but...
Yes and no. I pulled the pulleys and painted them separately. My original tensioner didn't have the kickstand, not that I really needed it, but when it's missing you have the itch. I bought a used one that had the kickstand, so had to clean and deoxidize before painted. Painted the kickstand orange so you can see it, if possible. I had replaced the bearings in my original tensioner a few 10k ago, so I flipped those pulleys over. I still have to wipe off the paint from the center tensioner section, maybe.
Front and rear covers were painted too.
Even when you do very good prep the exh manifolds can still bite you in my experience. I've tried abrasive blasting, chem dip ...... it's hard to get used castings that clean. So I'm not going to get upset when they rust.
I think the cerakote guy is either half blind or half assed...I took the manifolds to him to prep and re-coat and he left them outside for me to pick up because he was leaving early for tge weekend. I got there and everything looked good until I saw the spot again. I don’t think he even media blasted them because it’s the same spot. I’m buying new Motorcraft manifolds and having him coat those so he’s starting with fresh material.
I got the oil cooler manifold, oil filter housing, exhaust manifold bolts/spacers and radiator brackets painted and heat cured. Front and rear covers and seals installed, new low pressure oil gears installed (yes I forgot to paint the LPOP cover). Today I’ll mask and paint that and get the oil cooler rebuilt, HPOP/cover installed and finish dressing the engine. I am also going to drill and tap heads for coolant return lines again
Jack, do you know the part numbers for the crank damper TTY bolts? I did not realize they were torque to yield and really don’t want to wait a week for ARP bolts for $37 from XDP. No one else has them with quick shipping. I found a thread on here from 2017 with several part numbers and the first one is in the photos in the next reply. What about flexplate bolts? I read a few threads you chimed in on about them having Loctite. The service manual doesn’t mention new bolts or Loctite.
I think the cerakote guy is either half blind or half assed...I took the manifolds to him to prep and re-coat and he left them outside for me to pick up because he was leaving early for tge weekend. I got there and everything looked good until I saw the spot again. I don’t think he even media blasted them because it’s the same spot. I’m buying new Motorcraft manifolds and having him coat those so he’s starting with fresh material.
With all of your mods, and seemingly unlimited budget, why not get the BD diesel ported exhaust manifolds? Available in lots of places, even Amazon.
When painting, you always, always forget something.
The flexplate bolts are reusable, but I think I bought new. They are deep in the box if I did. They are not torque-to-yield bolts.
I cleaned them up, put a little Loctite on them and torqued them down. The local Ford stealership ordered damper bolts for me and they’ll be in Tuesday. I can install those any time after the engine is nestled back in her home...
Originally Posted by Fuzzpuss
With all of your mods, and seemingly unlimited budget, why not get the BD diesel ported exhaust manifolds? Available in lots of places, even Amazon.
No unlimited budget here, my 401k came in handy for a cash advance. I can’t see spending $600 on exhaust manifolds, these are 17 years old, no cracks, no leaks. I’d rather use $600 for new front hubs!
No unlimited budget here, my 401k came in handy for a cash advance. I can’t see spending $600 on exhaust manifolds, these are 17 years old, no cracks, no leaks. I’d rather use $600 for new front hubs!
