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The firewall looks awesome Pal, as well as the engine!
Thank you sir! I am back to work the next eight days but will be working on it after work some each day. I was about two or three hours away from first start today but ran out of time and energy at 8:30pm. I’d rather not rush.
Originally Posted by troy676
Im interested in seeing how you ran your regulated fuel return lines..i made new lines and moved the regulator over to the the left side fender. Your Doing an amazing job.
I have already been running this fuel system since last April with zero leaks or issues other than needing a sump instead of sucking air at 1/8 of a tank with the sending unit I made. It works fine until the low fuel light comes on. I will be adding a Beans Micro Sump before summer. I already have it waiting on a shelf in the shop. I ran 1/2” Parker pushlok hose from the tank to the 6.7L fuel pump to a CAT 2 micron filter to a splitter dropping down to 3/8” lines that go in the front of the heads, out the rear banjo hard lines to the regulator mounted on the inside of the alternator bolt and return to the 6.7 pump back to the tank. The 6.7 pump will automatically return water to the tank instead of through the system in case I get bad fuel. I deleted the upper fuel bowl and used the hard lines and stainless braided hoses from my Driven Diesel regulated return I had when I was running the HFCM that could not keep fuel pressure with the 175/30s during any harder acceleration or passing while towing. The fuel system was a lot of work, it all was but a little at a time to get here.
Hoses and wires everywhere! I got everything hooked up except the batteries and need to get the radiator, intercooler etc in and fill up the fluids. I added negative cables to the driver side that will run from the battery to the grounding points Jack mentions in his videos. I also added a ground from the passenger rear head to the frame. My engine did not have one. I’ll get more photos later this week.
I dropped one damn injector clip in the valley and it disappeared into thin air.
If you keep it on the engine stand for a long time you can enjoy it more, just sayin.
Naa, I want to drive her again!
I am priming the low pressure oil system through the oil cooler test port right now. $9.99 gallon pump sprayer put a gallon in her in about 15 minutes.
Hope you locate that injector clip. Back in the day we had a "tech" (loosely used term) that thought you had to pull the clips off to remove the plug off the injectors and of course, lost one. Never told anyone and just shrugged it off. Not many days later it had a no low pressure issue. Guess what went through the low pressure pump destroying the cover and gear? Atleast that was the best we could figure happened based on the pieces found and damage.
There was no way for it to get in the engine, everything was buttoned up. I removed the clips because I hate having to push them on and possibly pushing one of the plugs into the rocker box.
It’s a M14x1.5 thread and you need a 3/4” or 19mm socket to remove it. I bought an aluminum fitting with a 3/8” barb so I can slip a piece of power steering hose on it. After priming I put the test port fitting back in. Of course they couldn’t have used a standard quick release fitting, it’s some special fitting that only God and Ford techs have access to.
There's another thread here or in another forum (I think it was here due to Sean's aircraft background) where I talked about installing a pre-start "priming" oil pump as aircraft engines do, pulling the oil from either the drain plug location or putting a through-hole in the oil pan sump, then using this port to pre-oil. I almost did that but I don't plan on keeping this truck so long to make it worth the cost. A CA or southern truck, it might be a consideration, You can adapt an oil pump that is used for differential oil cooling to a heat exchanger that is used in the racing industry.
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