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Yeah, well, if I don’t put it away I’ll never find it. There’s a reason I have all my tool drawers labeled.
I believe in abrasive cleaning, but then chemical cleaning/de-rusting for parts like the exhaust. If not then new. But that’s my experience, others may have a better way.
If those BD up-pipes haven't shipped yet, cancel the order. They were nothing but trouble for me, in addition to two more possible leak sources to worry about. Plus they had an issue with harmonics, creating a fluttering sound at low boost that drove me bananas! I couldn't be happier with the Windrunner Performance pipes. They were actually welded in-place on a 6.0 block; fit is perfect.
Here's a pic of the BD elbow kissing-off on the mounting stud for the firewall heater pipe. Yeah, that elbow takes up a lot of space.
This is the only pic I have of the Windrunner pipes. They look a lot like Anthony's from pics I've seen. Notice the heater pipe stud has been clipped short?
Yeah, well, if I don’t put it away I’ll never find it. There’s a reason I have all my tool drawers labeled.
I believe in abrasive cleaning, but then chemical cleaning/de-rusting for parts like the exhaust. If not then new. But that’s my experience, others may have a better way.
I don’t think he even blasted them the second time...
Tool drawers?!? Haha I need to invest in some soon. I’m going to finish insulating this shop then start permanently storing tools and parts.
Originally Posted by Fuzzpuss
If those BD up-pipes haven't shipped yet, cancel the order. They were nothing but trouble for me, in addition to two more possible leak sources. I couldn't be happier with the Windrunner Performance pipes. They were actually welded in-place on a 6.0 block; fit is perfect.
Here's a pic of the BD elbow kissing-off on the mounting stud for the firewall heater pipe. Yeah, that elbow takes up a lot of space.
This is the only pic I have of the Windrunner pipes. They look a lot like Anthony's from pics I've seen. Notice the heater pipe stud has been clipped short?
A few people I talk to and wrench with (one is Toreador Diesel on here) have the BD up pipes with no issues. If they suck I’ll sell them or give them away. I can cut the firewall stud short, that’s not an issue. The collector and pipes are larger than stock so they flow more so that must be why they are so tight back there. I’ll do some hardcore heat abatement back there and on the collector and pipes as well. I’ve seen windrunner on the other forum but didn’t know he had pipes. They never came up on a search either and I looked for three hours yesterday.
Man they shipped faster than expected. I’ll have up pipes and manifolds waiting for me when I get home. I’m about to slide her back in the engine compartment this week. I got my steering gear installed yesterday and cleaned the inside of the intake manifold and mocked everything up and took a few photos. I’ll post more tonight with manifolds and pipes on.
That looks great Mac. You're really making me rethink the color of my valve covers.
I almost went with gloss red but there are a lot of engine builds with the accent color on the valve covers. I wanted alternating color scheme too. It won’t really matter once it’s buried under all the accessories, hoses and wires but it will look nice before it goes in!
The Mishimoto thermostat housing is raw aluminum and looks almost exactly the same color as the Flat Aluminum VHT. Look at the EBPV sensor bracket for comparison.
I could have been done with this thing and driving it already if I didn’t fart around with all the paint and cleaning fasteners like I have OCD or something...it’s going to be like that new pair of work boots you don’t want to scuff up then a week later you forget about it and the new wears off!
Add to that you won't move forward until you think you have all the videos you need of the work, and then don't use 3/4 of them. I just spent 4+ weeks of free time with a HFCM. I should have had this motor done in two weeks.
I modified the EBPV bracket so it wasn't over the T/S housing.
Fasteners, a whole other sidetracking subject ...... although not that bad in time.
I have to get back to my fishing guide side job, take my son and lady fishing and get some projects around the ranch done before it’s 100 degrees. The way it’s looking that won’t be far off. Razzi might have to wait until next Winter for his 6.0 rebuild!
A really very good job! I guess there's no better way to do it.
Whenever I see such an engine on the engine stand, I would like to test run the engine before installation. Has anyone realized that yet?
Could you connect the FICM and PCM with used wiring harnesses? I always let my engines which I overhaul (but all mechanically controlled) run on the engine stand before installation.
I’m not cheap, especially if I’m polishing rusty bolt heads and cleaning threads on every fastener before it goes back in...maybe run6.0run would be a cheaper option??? Bwahaha
Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
So in Texas, there is only allowed one engine stand in the state?
I don’t want my engine stand or lift going anywhere again, last time I loaned it out I had to drive 6 hours round trip to get it because my UCF cylinder heads issue...and that’s where this honey badger hole endeavor began!
Originally Posted by Hartwig
A really very good job! I guess there's no better way to do it.
Whenever I see such an engine on the engine stand, I would like to test run the engine before installation. Has anyone realized that yet?
Could you connect the FICM and PCM with used wiring harnesses? I always let my engines which I overhaul (but all mechanically controlled) run on the engine stand before installation.
That would be another week of wrenching and more money buying test tanks and you have the wiring harness, PCM....no way. It will run the first time bolted up to the motor mounts and transmission! You let us know when you get a 6.0 running on a stand and post the whole process on here, I’ve got to see it. Not being facetious at all!
Ok guys, I know I can just crank to prime the oil system blah blah blah, read it all, been there done that. Have any of you actually primed the oil system through the oil cooler test port with a remote pressure tank like a pump sprayer? I would spend the money on the fitting and pump sprayer if someone can give me a reason it will work. I just really want to have the oil galleys and everything full before the engine is even turned one time. I lubed everything as specified by Jeff and I primed my oil rails through the plugs but I really want to just have fresh oil right there from the start to eliminate any possibility of issues. Give me some feedback and I’ll order the fitting I need to thread into the test port...
Jack I found an old thread on a test port gauge install for low pressure oil monitoring. Can I just buy the fitting with a 3/8” barb and go at it with a pump sprayer and pump about 8-10 quarts in? I haven’t checked but one of the fuel pressure regulator fittings may be the correct thread. I have the whole fuel bowl that has all the original fittings.
