Official NCFTE Works Thread
Now that it's cooled down some, maybe I'll get motivated to get something done on my stuff too...lol.
Excursion...
Change the coolant
Change differential fluid
Plugs and boots
Install front receiver hitch for platform basket
Expedition...
Install a transmission dipstick that is serviceable in the engine bay instead of under the truck.
Be Good!!!
Now that it's cooled down some, maybe I'll get motivated to get something done on my stuff too...lol.
Excursion...
Change the coolant
Change differential fluid
Plugs and boots
Install front receiver hitch for platform basket
Expedition...
Install a transmission dipstick that is serviceable in the engine bay instead of under the truck.
Be Good!!!
I've gotta do my oil cooler on the f250. Pcv hose on the sport Trac, throwing lean codes

Little before and after comparison here.

All the casings after i finished soda blasting.
The machine shop I had press the old / new bushings and then ream to fit did not do the job right. When they reamed the bushings they did each side to fit the pin not all the way thru to the other side.
When I went to put it all together the pin would not go thru both bushings so I used a wheel cyl hone to make it fit. The spindels would flop side to side when done so don't think to tight.
It could be the toe is out? It was hard to do by myself using a tape measure.
Thanks
Dave ----

Dave ----
Then added a lot of weld more to the ball side. Then ground & filed back into shape. Also had to run a 9/16 nc die down the threads to clean them up and a tap in the block.
Got it back together and adjusted and worked great so on to the brakes.
Bought a new master (not rebuilt) and rebuilt booster and the swap went pretty easy but ..............
I have no pedal and yes I bench bled the master before it went in.
Had the wife help bleed the brakes, she could not tell me if the pedal would pump up or got better after each wheel bleed.
Still low pedal and mushy so Saturday morning we bleed again with motor running still low & mushy?
Someone said maybe adjust the rod between booster & master, I did check this before installing and this rebuilt is longer than the old one and what the book has listed but I make it a little longer, still no good!
I have my works show in Apex I want to take the truck to and still crappy brakes so I adjust the crap out of the rear drums to the point it will not roll down my drive, still not good but it does stop.
So we give the truck its first wash & dry, pack a few hand tools just in case. We have AARP for towing if I cant fix it.
Wife is not happy at this point but off we go first stop at the gas station to top off the tanks. The rear tank is not working the gauge and did not have the time to really look into it.
I was happy the gas went in both tanks pretty fast as it can be an issue with them & the vent in the filler hoes.
Wife did not talk much on the ride to Apex and I was ok with that as I was more into the truck.
I have a squeak that starts about 10 miles into the drive in both direction but was gone when I took the truck down the street today to return the cores and get keys cut for the truck.
Yes the truck made it back home under its own power and other than the darting left & right is not a bad riding & running truck.
I forgot to get pictures at the show sorry.
Today got a late start, took it down the street to return cores get keys cut and other than brakes it is a nice truck.
I want to pressure bleed the brake system and Auto Zone dose not lend that tool so time to make one.
I started to make one years ago with 3" PVC, some 1/4" nipples, ball valves and hose but did not have a cap for the master.
I used the cap from the old master, a screw in tire valve with the core removed.
I trimmed the gasket so it is just around the edge and in the center to pass fluid to each side.
I filled the PVC, cap in place and started to add air and forgot about the vent in the cap and sprayed fluid.
Cleaned up the cap and engine bay, mixed up a little JB Weld to seal the vent.
It needs to setup for 16 hours so I will get back to it in a few days.
Dave ----
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I started replacing the drivers seatbelt in the f250, cleaned up the new belt it and scrubbed the molding I pulled as well. Started cleaning the foam out of the cab corner that likes to hold moisture and rot it out.
Been sneezing all weekend, must have a cold. Got some nice used 32" tires mounted on the sport Trac, had to heat up and bend some inner fenders to stop them from rubbing. And still tracing down a set of lean p0171 and p0174 codes.
Cut and buffed the hood in class, it's done.
On the bleeder thanks for the offer, I think I should be good with the one I am making now that I have the vent hole sealed.
The only thing I see wrong on using the cap from the old master is because it has the raised parts the wire clamp sits on and the fluid comes in at the top of the large one it fills up.
So when you remove the cap that fluid just spills out. I had a large towel down under the master to catch it but thinking I need to put more down for this next try.
On the 15 psi max that is what I seen posted on a few different sites using Google as I did not know.
That is why I marked it on the side of the bleeder assy. as I will forget the next time I go to use it.
It was posted if you went more than 15 psi it could hurt the system? Thinking maybe seals?
On the way home from work I picked up more brake fluid so if I get home early one day I can pressure bleed the system and fingers crossed I get a good pedal.
Dave ----
And Dave, I think over 15 may damage seals, mine never needed over 5-10psi to flush out old fluid, I couldn't get mine to bleed out right without it.
And Dave, I think over 15 may damage seals, mine never needed over 5-10psi to flush out old fluid, I couldn't get mine to bleed out right without it.


now i just need to get some longer bolts to mount the engine onto the engine stand... since its made more for like connecting to where the bell housing bolts to. the bolts i have arent long enough so need to get some longer ones to get where the engine normally bolts to a bike so i can paint it... will also have to make something to keep it pushed away from the engine stand and not move back on the bolts but that wont be hard to do... lol...
also got the rest of the piston rings out of the piston that was frozen in the engine.. had to chip away the build up over the 2nd ring before it broke free but the upper one came out in pieces... i just finally got the last piece of that ring out today... the other piston came apart easily... then cleaned them up... this is a before and after shot...


the left one still had the rings in it... i took them out after taking the pic and cleaned it up too.. I need to pick up a ring groove cleaner tool to go through them for when i get the new rings...













