When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
it looks to be a 1992 and up.
I need one from 1988 to 1991 that uses a cable for the speedo but that price sure looks nice.
Would also need the hydraulic pedal assy. Cross members so i dont have to drill the frame, and floor cover.
If I found the transmission for a good price I could hunt for the other parts before starting the swap.
Dave ----
So after seeing Dave's truck. I've started getting a bit of a bug about getting back to work on mine.
So I said I did the bed liner. Here it is. I'm really happy with how it turned out. I'm ready to go crazy using this stuff EVERY WHERE on the truck now!!!! 😁
It does look good. My floor was lined when the bed was on the parts truck I just use Dupla color bed liner to make it look good before bolting on the bed sides.
I also used it on the top & bottom of the cab floor.
I have used SEM inside the cab on my truck and on my car project and would not use anything else.
Dave ----
Some have used it all over on their trucks even on the outside
Looks good, Josh
www.semproducts.com makes a liner that can be tinted to match the color of your truck. Used it in the bed of my 87 F250
This was the cheapest per gallon I could find around (auto parts store, can't remember a brand).
Originally Posted by FordTruckfan89
Sem is what i used on my door panels, great products. I may bedline my bed whenever I get around to fixing it up and painting it.
SEM on the doorpanels. Paint on the door or on the actual plastic panel? I may have to think about that. Mine are all looking worn and rough. Though my carpet in my truck is looking really rough. I'll grab a quick picture of that.
Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
That's it blame me LOL
It does look good. My floor was lined when the bed was on the parts truck I just use Dupla color bed liner to make it look good before bolting on the bed sides.
I also used it on the top & bottom of the cab floor.
I have used SEM inside the cab on my truck and on my car project and would not use anything else.
Dave ----
Ok Ok Ok.. three votes for SEM. I will check them out next time...
I used it on my door panels. I couldn't find red ones in good shape, found blue ones and painted them. Holds up great. Not very cheap for spray paint. I used the color for a fox body mustang interior the same year as my truck, matches very well.
I used it on my door panels. I couldn't find red ones in good shape, found blue ones and painted them. Holds up great. Not very cheap for spray paint. I used the color for a fox body mustang interior the same year as my truck, matches very well.
Same here on the plastic & vynl dash pad.
I had to redo everything because they looked bad or were painted black.
The metal lower part of the doors were painted with the same red as the body was.
On the SEM dye make sure the part is washed really really really good then wash again.
There is a prep I sprayed on before the dye.
Dave ----
I used the sem soap, then primer, then paint. The soap is like gojo/fast orange, but it's blue.
I used Dawn dish soap to wash the parts as it will cut the grease.
If it works on animals in oil spills it has to be good on car / truck parts LOL
I did use the spray on adhesion promoter before the color coats.
The only place I have seen any problems is 1 door panel and I don't blame the product.
The plastic parts in our trucks dry out and get chalky where the outer layers just turn to powder.
To try and fix this to get to a good solid base you use course sand paper to cut thru it then a little finer but you want to leave some scratches to make it look like it did from the factory.
SEM does sell a textured spray but both cans I have would not spray and I cant remember where I got them to return.
Anyway there was an area I did not get to a good base and my lunch box cooler hit the panel and flaked the paint off. The cooler is also pretty big and I am sure it would have left marks in a new cars panels also.
Other wise the panels look good enough till I can get new ones some day.
Dave ----
I used the sem soap, then primer, then paint. The soap is like gojo/fast orange, but it's blue.
Cool. I may ask for a reminder when I get to that step. Right now things are on a bit of a hold spending money wise until the house sells and Disney is paid for.
Originally Posted by Cracker289
Josh was that roll on or spray on bedliner?
Roll on. I did the cheapest I could find. If this was a truck I used more often I might spend more and do a different brand\type. But I'm pretty cheap when it comes to doing stuff on this truck.
Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
I used Dawn dish soap to wash the parts as it will cut the grease.
If it works on animals in oil spills it has to be good on car / truck parts LOL
I did use the spray on adhesion promoter before the color coats.
The only place I have seen any problems is 1 door panel and I don't blame the product.
The plastic parts in our trucks dry out and get chalky where the outer layers just turn to powder.
To try and fix this to get to a good solid base you use course sand paper to cut thru it then a little finer but you want to leave some scratches to make it look like it did from the factory.
SEM does sell a textured spray but both cans I have would not spray and I cant remember where I got them to return.
Anyway there was an area I did not get to a good base and my lunch box cooler hit the panel and flaked the paint off. The cooler is also pretty big and I am sure it would have left marks in a new cars panels also.
Other wise the panels look good enough till I can get new ones some day.
Dave ----
Yep I use dawn for everything car related. All these expensive different gimmicky cleaners. But elbow grease and good ole Dawn has always done me right.
Except on washing new cars. They have this spray, called Simonize, I can't remember what it is, but it helps cars shine on the lot, when new, and dawn takes it right off.
So I picked up a project today. I was thinking an easy flip, get it running good and get everything working, then turn around & sell it. But it's worse than I anticipated in regards to rust and rattiness, plus I think I ruined the transmission by towing it in neutral instead of dropping the driveshaft, so I'm sure I will wind up taking a beating on it in the long run! It's a 1983 F-100 with a 1969 era 351w motor. Motor will crank & fire when you put gas in the carb but it won't run. So either fuel issues or carb issues there. Bed floor is gone, but nothing that a sheet of diamond plate from Dillon Metal Supply in Raleigh can't fix. Knock on wood...
I'm surprised Dillon supply will sell you anything smaller than a semi truck load.
Replaced a cracked y pipe on the f250, and had to " weld" a exhaust reducer together, looks like crap but it's solid and doesn't leak. In a rush with flux core
All I have is flux core too, spatters and looks bad but otherwise seems to always hold well.
Dillon charges $20 per load, even if you are only buying one piece. But it's still cheaper than going retail usually. Although I haven't tried the new place in Garner yet, "Metal Supermarket" I think it's called.
I hope you tie that truck down better on the trailer cracker than the guy i saw towing an escort the other day... everytime he stopped or took off the car on the trailer rolled back and forth in the tire webbing... a good distance too... wasnt like "ohh heres a couple inches".. i wouldnt ever have noticed that... this thing was rolling close to a good foot on the trailer... i was surprised it was still on the trailer when i saw it...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
