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I later went over all the parts with a razor blade to remove all the remaining gaskets... some of the 30 year old gaskets didnt want to come off real easily.. others popped off like they were just put on yesterday..
So dirty its still brownish black after sitting all night.
Got the rear glass, all the door glass, all weather stripping, kick panels and door sills installed.
Did I post I got new tires for it so I did toe with a tape just so I can drive it. It was toed in like 1 inch.
Speakers wired and mounted, windshield molding clips installed, just need a hand getting the glass in.
Installed grease fittings on the new kingpins, greased them & tie rods, nut & bolted the suspension.
Started to install the mirror mounting hardware and found I have to come up with something else for the top mounts and think I may have that covered.
Wife is getting insurance and I hope tomorrow after my eye injection mellows out to get plate so when I get the windshield in I can drive it.
Dave '---
Decided to clean the rust and carbon out of the cylinder head. Cleaned half of them to show the before and after then cleaned the other half. Dont think its been this clean since the day it came off the assembly line 46 years ago.
Because its upside down this is the Right cyl. Mix of rust and carbon
Left cyl. (Easier to clean just carbon here)
Fully cleaned out
Other side fully cleaned.
Half and half of the intake ports
Half and half exhaust side.
Intake ports finished
Exhaust after i finished theyre not perfect but best i could do...
outlet from the exhaust...
Also spent time fixing one of my tools. Second time trying to weld aluminum with my mig. Seems with the mig thicker the aluminum the better.
How the tool broke. All the splatter there was from me playing with some scrap aluminum trying to get it right.
ugly but solid weld (im better at Tig welding aluminum.. but i dont have a tig welder...)
Couldnt figure out why my grinder wasnt working till i saw this. Wonder why it didnt work
My new spring compressor, new valve, and gasket sets showed up earlier in the week. If I get a chance this weekend I'm going to try to get that valve changed out atleast.
I will try to make this as short as possible. Bought this truck in May and knew it had a few issues. Seller said it needed a fuel pump and had some eletrical problems. I put a new fuel pump on it and the pump would not come on still. So i held the old one directly to the battery and it came on, so i straight wired the pump to the battery and it ran fine til sometime early Sept. Was working fence line on the farm and while driving to the next section of fence it cut off and wouldn't start back. After tryin a few things i gave up and headed home to get the other fuel pump. Installed it and got it going again. It sat for 2 days after that , i was backing up to unload the bed and it died again.... finally after calling a buddy in to help find my electrical issue we discovered that the prior owner had removed all the factory pins from the fuse box under the hood and put about 20 jumper wires in it to opperate off of the 3 or 4 relays and maybe 10 fuses that were still in there. He replace all the pins like they came from the factory. Fuel pump still wouldn't work so we added a toggle switch to it inside the cab. Also had to drop the tank and repair the sending unit. Now that it runs again i have found more electrical issues. I had to replace part of the harness due to several broken wires and bad connections on some of its sensors. Im still having trouble. After replacing the section of harness i drove it fine for 4 days then the battery gage started dropping. Sometimes it will come right back on dependig on how far i drive it. My farm is about 15 mins from my house some days i make it to and from and other days it drops down completely before i even gst there. I replaced both batteries and the alternator next day died before i got to the farm after you charge it fires right upor jumps off just fine.i cant figure out what is drawing so hard on it to kill it only when im driving. Did some digging and found that the trailer harness has 2 red, 2 black wires hanging out beside the connector inside the cab. Unhooked it and no problems til last night. Still running out when driving. Ever since i dropped the tank my fuel hand goes up to F and stays there til you turn off the key. Also my light on the trailer box inside the cab stays on even with the switch off. While driving as fast as possible to get home today( due to rapidly dropping battery amps) i noticed when i going around a sharp curve the fuel hand finally moved down for a split second the back to F. Could it be something on the harness when i put the sending unit back in? On the trailer harness they have the blue wire tied in with the red, could this be it also? Thanks in advance, any suggestions will be appreciated im at my wits on this one.
Dusty that hood came out great!
Wendi you got more problems than a one-legged man in a tail-kicking contest! I'm guessing there is still a bad short somewhere, or the wire that tells the alternator when to turn itself on and work is in and out. None of that explains the fuel gauge though. Wiring problems are the worst. I wish I had some useful advice!
Dropped the tank last night to see if there was anyting visible with the wiring harness. BINGO! When my buddy was wiring in the 2 wires he forgot to crimp one end of the butt connector on the red wire and there was also a few spots on both wires that the outer coating was cut and allowing them to touch each other. I put new conectors on both wires and taped up the bad spots, plugged it back it, and turned the switch on.... I now have a working fuel gauge again!!! Gonna put it all back together and give it a test drive tonight to see if that was also the mystery behind my draining batteries!
Got up at 2am on my day off. Decided to work on the engine a bit.
Discovered back when i pulled the trans forks that the they were gouged on the inside. Spent some time with a file smoothing down and polishing the shift shaft.
Other side. You can still see the factory cross hatches on either side of the gouge.
Never used my wheel cyl hone so figured id use it on the inside of the shift forks to smooth them out.
Its better and smoother. And got new cross hatches.
Then decided to clean up the covers. Little before shot here.
Ooo mirror finish on the cam retainers.
shiny covers...
When you get it so shiny you need sunglasses while you werk.
Then decided to clean up the valves. (this particular one is from the side that was "open" for 30 sum years... )
Good catch Wendi!
Shawn you've been working and polishing and grinding! (y)
just a little grinding (if you count honing as grinding)... not really much though... ill be grinding more when i get around to welding on the last shift fork thats had something eat the side of it out in a spot...
Well I set out to change my valve this morning and soon found out I need even more parts 🤦*♂️
One of the inner springs was broke... so looks like I need to order a new one. I looked at all the others and haven't found any others that look broke. Tried to order a replacement from PAC, but their website isn't working right. Guess I'll call them tomorrow.
Good catch Wendi!
Shawn you've been working and polishing and grinding! (y)
Thanks! Unfortunately it wasnt the main source of my battery drain. Test drivedid shed a lil more light on the situation thoug 99
1h. Everytime i go around a curve to the right my abs light would also come on and tha battery gauge would drop again... turn left gauge would try to move back up. Found the abs sensor on the passenger side had come loose from the clip that holds it to the inner fender, it was so worn that the 2 wires had melted together. I robbed the conector off my 99 to put onto the 01. Spliced it in, taped it up and thought i had her whooped. Ran great til lunchtime today. Everything looked good so now im down to any and all help. The only other wire that isn't hooked up is the conector for the horn which previous owner had disconnected So where do i look now?
Got the truck all together so figured I would take it for a spin.
It did not go to good, OK let's call it bad.
Master & booster are bad, master so much I will not drive it till fixed.
Truck darts left & right and after a turn wheel will not return to center. Maybe toe is still off and caster but with kingpins that can't be adjusted with out bending the beams.
Then when pulling in the drive the clutch linkage broke again.
At that point I left the truck in the yard and closed up shop to deal with this another day.
Dave ----
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