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Fixed the a/c in the sport Trac, Flushed the condenser, evaporator and lines until they were clean, blew all the solvent out, replaced the seized compressor, the dryer, plugged orifice tube and put on new orings, put oil in, pulled a pretty good vacuum on it and charged it.
Saw a sweet 87-89 centurion f350 in fuquay.
Wow that is bad news. How were you going about raising it?
originally dad was trying with his tractor.. but kept lifting the wheels off the ground instead of the pole.... the we tried with my truck and the 12000lb winch... just as the pole started to lift the first time is when the tow strap snapped the first time... after that no matter how many times we tried the strap kept snapping... tried to with a larger tow strap but couldnt get it to bite onto the pole.. it just wanted to slip...
I am still around just have not stopped in here in a bit.
Even with the heat I have gotten some more work down on the truck.
Over the last week or more I hope I have all the paint needed to paint the truck, 1 gal of the red and 2 qt's of the white. Between the paint, hardener & thinners that was $600+. I already bought 2 qt's for red I used to do the firewall, insides of the fenders and the inside of the cab & door jambs. Add in primer, thinner and body filler the $$ add up!
I cant remember if I posted but I got the dent in the left fender knocked out and back in primer. Also prepped the under side of the hood and got that in primer and picked the best of the 2 cowl vent covers and also prepped it and in primer. Last week end I sanded the primer on the hood and the cowl and work have painted them but was to hot to do that.
I have been working on a dash pad that should have been sent packing but was just right to try different things on to see if we can come up with a good fix for the cracks they get.
I have used expanding foam on the large speaker hole after I hot glued sheet metal as a backer. It worked ok for that but not for the cracks on other areas of the pad.
I then tried brush-able seam sealer and it started out looking good but also failed in filling in the cracks. It did help a little in the speaker hole area. I spent time removing the sealer from the cracks so I can try something else.
Up next I am going to try the hot glue in the cracks as I think this should fill them in but not sink deeper as it cures like the 2 coats of sealer did. I should also be able to add to it if needed and if to high think I can use heat to soften and smooth out like they do for lead on body work using wooden paddles.
Tomorrow I want to get out to the garage early to paint the under side of hood and edge the cowl cover. Once dry I can install on the truck so it is out of the way but the outside will get painted when the cab is done.
With that drying I need to empty the bed (storage area for now) so I can get it off the truck so I can sand the & prep the cab for paint.
I want to do the white first then the red and do the cab first because if I started the bed then cab and ran out of paint in the middle would suck.
So cab gets painted first then the bed get blown apart for paining. Before paint I have to do a good job cleaning the garage, that may be a worst job then sanding ......... not!
Oh I also bought a tape / paper machine to help mask the truck for painting. Of course the China junk was missing parts so had to get hardware for that. Then the tape holders were to small to hold tape rolls but a few wraps of tape fixed that but missing hardware to adjust them to hit the edge of the paper was missing so had to come up with a fix for that also.
It is a 2 paper machine but was able to get 3 rolls on: 36", 18" and a 12" paper should work better than news paper I have used in the past.
Dave ----
So i decided to work on adjusting my parking brakes today. When i pulled the outer tire so i could pull the axles and not make a mess of the rims with gear oil i discover this on the inner tire of my passenger side set.
For only having less than 3000mi on them needless to say im not real happy about that. Might explain why its been feelin like its got an out of balance tire back there too.
Got the parking brake adjusted some but still not perfect. Found the star wheels adjusted all the way down. I adjusted them out a bit but when i test parked it on the hill in the back yard it still rolls. So not really satisfied with them yet. But gonna let it knock the rust off the inner drum then readjust them later.
Put parts on and take parts off but this time it is all good!
Last weekend I prepped the under side of the hood & cowl cover for paint but was to hot but we have a cool spell so I got out early to paint the under side of the hood & cowl cover.
Wile I let it dry I cleaned out the bed of the truck so I could remove it at some point.
Once some what dry I got the truck turned around so I could get the hood on the truck.
You may ask "how do you install a hood by your self"? You hang it from the rafters and drive the truck under it.
Get the hinge bolts started then lower it some so you can get the springs on.
Once on it took a little bit of adjusting to get the gaps good and to close it felt good to see it on.
I then turned the truck around again to pull the bed off. I used a few 2x4's, some straps and my engine hoist to lift it off the trucks frame.
I then used my garden tractor & trailer and lowered the bed on the trailer and parked it outside by my race car & trailer and sons Jeep.
With the bed off I was able to blow the body filler dust off the rear half of the frame. I will need to wash it all off before the bed goes back on as it is looking a little shabby.
Tomorrow I hope to check the fuel gauges for the 2 tanks now that the bed is off and I may put some gas it a tank because with the hood on I cant cap the can I have been running the truck off of as it sits too high and would hit the hood.
Dave ----
Been a while since I have touched the truck. Still on jackstands and didn't do a whole lot today, but something is better than nothing. Got out while it was still cool this morning and took the rest of the front brake lines off (easy enough). Then took the wire wheel and drill to the frame. Cleaned them up just a little bit and sprayed some rust reform on. Realized I lost my shade so decided to package up the calipers to return as cores and get some of my money back. Front driver after wire wheel Front driver after rust reform Front passenger after wire wheel Front passenger after rust reform
I also got out to the garage before it got to hot to do a little more on mine.
Bed off I checked if the fuel sender wiring was good and would work the gauge for both tanks.
Shorted out the wires to ground and even flipping the switch between the 2 tanks I got nothing?
Could not find a test light so pulled out the volt meter and was getting readings of .5xx and lower at both senders?
Checked fuses but the temp & oil gauges worked so did not think I would find anything there and did not.
So moved up the frame rail to a plug at the base of the firewall & floor where I could test for power again.
That is when I saw the frame harness had not been plugged into the main harness.
A little cleaning of the plug, got then plugged together and this time I have good wiring to both senders.
I can only hope they are good as I installed new ones when I serviced the tanks before I installed them.
Wife was out so I put her to work moving the tank switch to see if the tank valve made a sound or felt like it was working.
No sound or felt it moving but it did have power to it. IIRC 1 of the parts truck tanks was empty and the other only had about 5 gallons of old gas in it so guessing the valve was bad?
New valve has been ordered off ebay along with other things since I was there
I bought an intermit wiper switch and control box off ebay a few months back so pulled the non-intermit switch and installed the intermit assy.
Hardest part was finding a screw to mount the box to the lower dash frame and sanding the area for the ground.
I then prepped the filler panels used on the flare side that install on the back of the cab down low by the cab corners. They finish off the cab because the bed is thinner than the style side and would have a hole there and dirt / mud can be kicked up to the bed front. One of the panels had a few extra holes so welded them and ground flat. They also had some rust so brushed on 2 coats of Eastwood's rust encapsulator and hung them in the 90* spray booth .... garage to dry and called it a day.
Dave ----
Finally getting some more time on the F100.
Engine nearly back together and have married it up to the gearbox/clutch without a Mandrel so that's always a nice result.
Now I just need to do the rest of the 40 thousand things...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
its still on the ground...
