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Probably not going to get much done on the truck this weekend with it being the baby's birthday Saturday, and fathers day on Sunday. I did pick up a new set of tires to try on the rear of it Monday....
They should test out everything in front of them 👀
I got some parts supposed to be showing up tomorrow and Saturday. Maybe I can get a few things knocked out over the weekend and Monday.
Brazed the fuel tank sending unit yesterday. Used a good bit of 50/50 lead tin solder. Gotta do a few things and toss the tank in.
Need to get the f250 realigned, the wore pivot bushings wore a tire pretty thin on the outside,so tires are next. If not for that, they could go for a little longer.
Between the steering, brake, front end and speedo gear shifting work, this truck drives completely different, its a good feeling.
Reattached a door molding on the sport Trac and it sounds like a wheel bearing is grinding in turns, so need to replace the hub assembly on that side. Looks like the light bar works well too.
I was going to work on the door panels by removing the spray paint someone put on it but when checking closer one was missing a piece and had a crack the other just a lot of paint.
Because you have to buy them in 2's it was not worth spending any time on them.
Moving on to the kick panels I have 2 sets 1 for AC truck and the other for non-AC.
Most of the plastic panels dry out with the heat & UV done here. If not too bad you can sand off the chalky layer and spray paint back to new.
So I was lucky and sanded the chalk off gave them a bath so close for paint.
But when you sand you remove the texture and I was just told SEM makes a spray texture you put on before painting so will look for it.
I then started to remove paint from the radio bezel using old brake fluid. Looks to be doing a good job but found the bezel was broken and paint was holding it together.
I think once the paint is off O can glue it back together to use if need be.
Thing is I have a set of wood grain bezels I want to use but the wood is not in great shape. I am going to look into using wrap to make the wood look good again but I am in no rush.
Dave ----
I was going to work on the door panels by removing the spray paint someone put on it but when checking closer one was missing a piece and had a crack the other just a lot of paint.
Because you have to buy them in 2's it was not worth spending any time on them.
Moving on to the kick panels I have 2 sets 1 for AC truck and the other for non-AC.
Most of the plastic panels dry out with the heat & UV done here. If not too bad you can sand off the chalky layer and spray paint back to new.
So I was lucky and sanded the chalk off gave them a bath so close for paint.
But when you sand you remove the texture and I was just told SEM makes a spray texture you put on before painting so will look for it.
I then started to remove paint from the radio bezel using old brake fluid. Looks to be doing a good job but found the bezel was broken and paint was holding it together.
I think once the paint is off O can glue it back together to use if need be.
Thing is I have a set of wood grain bezels I want to use but the wood is not in great shape. I am going to look into using wrap to make the wood look good again but I am in no rush.
Dave ----
I've found citristrip from Lowe's is pretty gentle on plastic parts, but works well to remove paint. Ive heard Sem makes graining pads, idk how well they work. The ford medium duty trucks used the 80-86 interior panels into the late 90's, try looking for those if you need something.
Well Saturday took the old truck to Fuquay to pick up a load. It did fine. Could be better, but overall it wasn't too bad. Brought back the trailer with a couple of tool boxes on it. She did struggle on one hill, but other than that she ran flawlessly. I'm going to be using it more and more. I sure am enjoying it, though I need to find the short in the radio, so it doesn't keep cutting out. Sure is nicer to drive when you can listen to some music.
Well today I started working on a set of traction/ladder bars for my truck. I found a premade set for about $300 but they were only 32" long and from what I've been seeing I needed closer to 48". So when I picked up the DOM tube for my roll cage I also got some smaller DOM to build traction bars out of.
I'm gonna add 1 more bar in there to add strength then they'll be ready to install I reckon.
never hurts to have extra support... especially when your dealing with something thats going to be supporting great loads of torque like a suspension part... even the canopy i built for the tractor has an additional one in the center of the triangle brace for added support...
originally i had it all threaded together with just some small tack welds to keep them from unthreading (even though they never should have once screwed together) on the tractor... but somehow he managed to snap it... i didnt have the triangle brace from the base to the front then... it was just supported in the middle about the same degree as the 3/4" pipe is... the pic there is from when i just did away with all the screw joints and welded it all solid pipe to pipe.. then added the ladder brace for the additional support... he hasnt managed to break it again lol...
I agree extra never hurts, but these aren't really supporting anything because for my class I'm required to retain a working factory type suspension. So I did the shackle flip, and removed the block so should make the suspension work better. These are just fancy traction/anti wrap bars.
ahh.. normally when i see ladder braces like that they tend to get under a good bit of twisting... why i figured the extra bracing would keep them from bowing under the stress...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
