Snowseekers 6.0 experience.
Sent from my ANDROID using IB AutoGroup
Sent from my ANDROID using IB AutoGroup
Sent from my ANDROID using IB AutoGroup
This pic doesn't show the cover,,, but it's Tousley

Here is the prices,, item 9 and 10.

Good deal on the pump,,, Thx for the number.
Speaking of Tousley shipping,, I just spent $5k a couple days ago,,, n they overnighted the overhaul kit for FREE!!! 66lb box. I like them. I would've been sad if I had bought it at that price!!!! But,, Generally, if you need a lpop,,, You need to fix the reason for needing the pump.
Thx Tim for the number!!!
This pic doesn't show the cover,,, but it's Tousley

Here is the prices,, item 9 and 10.

Good deal on the pump,,, Thx for the number.
Speaking of Tousley shipping,, I just spent $5k a couple days ago,,, n they overnighted the overhaul kit for FREE!!! 66lb box. I like them. I would've been sad if I had bought it at that price!!!! But,, Generally, if you need a lpop,,, You need to fix the reason for needing the pump.
Thx Tim for the number!!!
There were quite a few early motors that broke gerotors for no apparent reason and Elite even offered a billet gerotor set to replace the stocker because it was assumed that no replacement gerotor was available without buying the whole assembly, but that wasn't the case. I just always replace them as cheap insurance while I'm in that area.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts

The bad cam lobe on the old cam.

It would be interesting to know what oils were used in the two motors.
Old cam:
New cam:

An interesting thing, the new cam alignment holes and dimple are one tooth different than the old cam.


See the cam timing/alignment holes are offset to the keyway on the new cam and strait in line on the old cam.


On. Red loctite on the balancer bore and snout of crank. Blue loctite on the bolts.

As I suspected because of the press fit there is no readable runout.

But it had a horizontal runout of .003". Just impacting the opposing bolts to the low side wasn't quite enough to bring it in true. I had to back off the low side bolts ever so slightly and then hit the high side to bring it in true. After that a quick go around again with the impact, check again, and all is nice and true down to the readable .001" resolution.

I was able to look down the locating hole before pulling the balancer and see the crank was drilled so I was less worried about pulling it. Without the locating hole I can see where the balancer can be up to 1/8" or more off centered. However I believe one reason why it is hard to get these reset right is not only getting it in its original orientation but being a press fit and no toque spec it seems they can be mounted a bit crooked with just an impact. Even with a torque value it would be hard to get it flat because of the press fit. I am confident with the dial indicator it can be set almost perfectly (give or take a very very minimal if any at all). Even with the rear cover on I believe you could get an indicator on there and get it set very well. It would be interesting to check a "bad" crank just to see if this is all true.
We shall see if we get a shake. I may check the flywheel with the dial indicator as well just to see if any small runout is magnified.
The balancer itself I checked over and only found a small difference between the outer surface and inner crank mating surface not being 100% concentric. But all this may not be exactly the same between one motor and another.

The bad cam lobe on the old cam.

It would be interesting to know what oils were used in the two motors.
Old cam:
New cam:

An interesting thing, the new cam alignment holes and dimple are one tooth different than the old cam.


See the cam timing/alignment holes are offset to the keyway on the new cam and strait in line on the old cam.


Oh I agree, all aspects would be interesting to know about. I do know the original stuff all has 180K on it. The new cam, all I know is it is out of a F350 between 03-07 and was a running low mile motor. I find it strange that a running low mile motor was parted out.
I did pull the upper pan and flush everything out inside the motor and check to make sure there was no extra needle bearings or material hiding somewhere up in the motor in a corner. Now though I have to wait for a gasket kit so I can start putting junk back on the motor.
On that note, what is the deal with the ford and garret turbo rebuild kits? The ford kits is cheaper but looks like it is missing half the o-rings, the garret kit looks like it has everything that is in the turbo? Or is it the garret kit comes with the install hardware as well?
I also notice every gasket kit has different gaskets in it. Some are missing this or that, some are a total rebuild kit with pistons and all. Anyone happen to have links to good complete gasket sets with oem stuff and good prices? Don't need pistons and rings and whatnot but I do need pretty much every o-ring and gasket for the motor and everything on it. I would like to support Clay at riffraff but it seems he doesn't have whole kits. I put together a gasket set with everything I could find on his site but it still seemed to be missing quite a few things.










