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Why not? The only thing I thought of taking off would be the high pressure oil rails to get the stand pipes in. But this is also why I asked if the injector o-rings are known to fail at all? If the are I will pull them and reO-ring them now but if they aren't known to have problems I would rather leave them be.
Why not? The only thing I thought of taking off would be the high pressure oil rails to get the stand pipes in. But this is also why I asked if the injector o-rings are known to fail at all? If the are I will pull them and reO-ring them now but if they aren't known to have problems I would rather leave them be.
The simple answer is that it's a bad repair although I applaud everything you've done this far. Since you're in it this far pull the injectors and redo the O-rings. Assemble the rockers and pushrods as you intstall the bolts AFTER you set the head on the head gasket. I think it will save you a lot of problems down the road. This isn't a place to cut corners.
The simple answer is that it's a bad repair although I applaud everything you've done this far. Since you're in it this far pull the injectors and redo the O-rings. Assemble the rockers and pushrods as you intstall the bolts AFTER you set the head on the head gasket. I think it will save you a lot of problems down the road. This isn't a place to cut corners.
With your experience and obvious knowledge it won't take you much longer and you might find something you don't like. Have you checked the heads for flatness?
I wouldn't do anything to them until I'd had a chance to let them run. How have you not pulled them?
Since I've talked you into pulling the injectors I'd remove and polish the spool valves while they're out. There's a link in the tech folder on how to do that somewhere. The only thing to watch out for is that the valves are directional but it's only one tiny bolt to get them out.....
Forgive me for taking a step back, but am I to understand that you cannot time the cam to the crank without removing that balancer?
.
Ford makes a tool to do it.
I found that simply lining up the two drilled cam gear holes with the dowel pin and center drill (middle) of the crank sets it in time perfectly. This can be done with a strait edge (stiff ruler). I can take a pic of this before I put the rear cover back on.
I found that simply lining up the two drilled cam gear holes with the dowel pin and center drill (middle) of the crank sets it in time perfectly. This can be done with a strait edge (stiff ruler). I can take a pic of this before I put the rear cover back on.
That would be great if it's not too much trouble, thanks.
You did mention about measuring the runout on the flex plate since that is what is bolted to the balancer. I would be interested to see what that is.
That simple thing is heavy.
Speaking of tools I just had someone ask if they could barrow
my seal setter and after when others have side I am inclined
to drop by the guys place and do the job and not leave the tools.
So far 2 people have loaned and 2 people have gotten back tools
damaged in some way or an other.
The big think I hear is that people try to use power tools to drive the seal
when you only need hand tools. They end up beating up the tool.
At about $250.00 used on ebay....Well you get the rant/worry.
Scuse me for butting in.......So you're saying off road diesel will not harm anything or set of any codes in the fuel system of a 6.0? specifically a 2007 6.0? I ask this because I live a few miles from the nearest fuel stop and in the winter months I will need to make a special trip there to fuel my truck.......BUT sometimes when plowing snow I will no doubt find myself running low and I DO have an off road fuel barrel for my equipment that, if I needed it would be nice to be able to use out of that barrel in a pinch. I know in some of the diesels it will shut them down but I DON"T know when that started to be implimented that is why I am asking now. Thanks in advance for input.
the only difference between red tank and #2 is the dye, and the lack
of taxes paid on the fuel. it won't hurt anything other than your wallet
if you get caught on the road and the officer checks it. in calif. it's expensive
to get caught. very.
if you are running red tank, and run it down as low as you can, and fill
it up with #2, run it down as low as you can and fill it again, it should
pass a dip test....
the only difference between red tank and #2 is the dye, and the lack
of taxes paid on the fuel. it won't hurt anything other than your wallet
if you get caught on the road and the officer checks it. in calif. it's expensive
to get caught. very.
if you are running red tank, and run it down as low as you can, and fill
it up with #2, run it down as low as you can and fill it again, it should
pass a dip test....
Thanks, Living where I do I don't worry much about the dip test. I do remember a few years back?? along about the time they started dyeing the fuel a bunch of people having major issues with putting the dyed fuel into their on road pickups, mostly the logging industry guys. I remember they had to be towed to the dealer and getting re-flashed or something to that affect and there where injector issues. the problem could have been just bad fuel, it just seems strange that the fuel they put into the trucks was the same fuel they where using in all of their off rd logging equipment and those things ran fine on it. I should add that it wasn't Ford specific, I recall some Durmax trucks where involved too. I don't remember any dodge/cummins engines included but then again this isn't dodge country.
Last edited by Mcrafty1; Nov 19, 2013 at 04:23 AM.
Reason: content
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