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Snowseekers 6.0 experience.

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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 06:44 AM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by bismic
Good to know, I will look into my documentation to see the source of the date I posted. I thought it was a TSB.
Unless the pump you sent me was a 90mm pump my cover has never been changed and your pump fit perfectly. I think there is a difference in how the lower hose comes off the pump cover on the newer covers?
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 07:05 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
Unless the pump you sent me was a 90mm pump my cover has never been changed and your pump fit perfectly. I think there is a difference in how the lower hose comes off the pump cover on the newer covers?
The pump you received is the 100mm pump.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 07:26 AM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by bismic
The pump you received is the 100mm pump.
LOL--I knew that it was my friend
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 07:43 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
But without a dowel pin you are relying on the shank
of the bolts for alignment. I can see it not sitting the
same as when it was put together and had the finish
grinding done. I might do it if I had to but if I don't
then I won't. Plus if you do pull the bed plate you will
know that it has been sealed with a fresh seal.

While we are on this subject I have this to share with you.
If you would like I can take some measurements so you
can see if you can make one.





Sean
Thank you very much for the offer! From what I see though I don't think I will need it but I will keep you in mind!

Originally Posted by npccpartsman
It may be that the flange is specific to the crankshaft it was originally mated to for balance reasons. By the video and just from what IH/Ford engineering states that "small" amount of weight makes a difference. It would be interesting to see if rotating it gives it a different runout.

What I am thinking is the crank was almost intentionally machined with a runout at the flywheel side. Then the balancer was attached and was machined true. OR basically the same scenario but with the bolt holes being drilled slightly off true. That way if the balancer is in any spot but the right spot the flywheel and torque converter have runout which cause the shake which also would cause failing seals and take out the bearings.

Either way, if I go the route of pulling that balancer off the crank I will check it over with a fine tooth comb and find out what is exactly is not machined or drilled true.

I am just totally dumbfounded why on earth they would put that adapter on there unless they planned to use multiple different adapters for different flywheels for different vehicles. Otherwise there is no reason for that extra part, bolts, process, and whatnot. It is a waste of manufacturer money and they don't take kindly to that kind of shenanigans.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 03:05 PM
  #110  
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Took some more stuff apart today.



Found some of the first needles bearings I have seen.





The screen was popped off the end (not sure if o-ring caused it) and the o-ring was wavy.





The pump cover got it the worst.


The lifter and the pieces I found in the pan and pickup screen.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 03:14 PM
  #111  
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Boy the pictures get worse like a metallic cancer in there.
Great job of documenting it though !
Continued good luck towards a successful resolution!
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 03:14 PM
  #112  
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Not to bad.



This is the oil pump housing. At least it fared better than the oil pump cover.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 03:16 PM
  #113  
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Is there any easy way to know one of these lifters is going bad and about to break apart like this? A friend just had the same problem on an 06 model. Just did my heads and studs had I known about this I would have looked closer at mine before it went back together. Keeping my fingers crossed and all that other stuff!
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 03:54 PM
  #114  
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I'd be tempted to pull the freeze plugs from the lifter oil galleys and check them for debris also. Are you going to completely strip the block from here or just try to clean everything out and leave the pistons "intact"?
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 04:08 PM
  #115  
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From: Spanaway
Originally Posted by Snowseeker


Not to bad.



This is the oil pump housing. At least it fared better than the oil pump cover.
Looks like metal munchies. Here is one thing to check just to see how much
was taken out of the circumference. Place the ring back in and check the
side play with a feeler gauge. I'll look up the clearances later for you.

Originally Posted by chester67
Is there any easy way to know one of these lifters is going bad and about to break apart like this? A friend just had the same problem on an 06 model. Just did my heads and studs had I known about this I would have looked closer at mine before it went back together. Keeping my fingers crossed and all that other stuff!
There is a shop in Tacoma that any time he has an engine in that is
over 200K miles he will replace the lifters. He does a lot of cab off
work so I don't see it as being too hard to get to the back side of the
engine to pop the cover and pull the branch tubes so the lifters can
be swapped out for a new set.

Sean
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 04:18 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
I'd be tempted to pull the freeze plugs from the lifter oil galleys and check them for debris also. Are you going to completely strip the block from here or just try to clean everything out and leave the pistons "intact"?

Pistons will be staying in. Everything cylinder wise looks perfect so I won't touch any of that. I think with the motor being as full as it was, everything got a good bath wash down to the pan. I'll put a couple of those super strong earth magnets on the drivers side of the pan and check it during oil changes. Everything I am seeing seems to show that the oil cooler and filter stopped everything but possibly some super fine dust.


Originally Posted by Yahiko
Looks like metal munchies. Here is one thing to check just to see how much
was taken out of the circumference. Place the ring back in and check the
side play with a feeler gauge. I'll look up the clearances later for you.



There is a shop in Tacoma that any time he has an engine in that is
over 200K miles he will replace the lifters. He does a lot of cab off
work so I don't see it as being too hard to get to the back side of the
engine to pop the cover and pull the branch tubes so the lifters can
be swapped out for a new set.

Sean

I would as well if I were doing studs and gaskets! After seeing more than a few of these now I would be totally tempted to put lifters in any 6.0 with over 150 on it while doing the other work. Besides, whats another $400 while a guy is "bulletproofing" his 6.0. lol

I would very much appreciate that tolerance spec as well!
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 04:28 PM
  #117  
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From: Spanaway
It's not very likely that any of the bearing fragments made it past
the oil filter. But there is one place where it would be a disaster
and that is in the piston cooling jets. Plug one of the ports up and
that piston will be in a world of hurt fast.

Just a thought.

Sean
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 06:33 PM
  #118  
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I don't know what the Big Deal is Over the Water Pump anyways

The 10mm Bigger water Pump didn't solve the Problem

The Problem is a Plastic Impeller on a Metal Shaft that Slips

To Bulletproof the problem Everyone needs a Water Pump that Metal Impeller on Metal shaft


Its like folks Try to make it out like 90mm Wont Cool and that Bigger 100mm pump is the saving Grace LOL

When In Fact the System has the capacity to cool VERY VERY Well with Either size Water Pump IMO
and the weak link is the Impellar
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 06:44 PM
  #119  
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I would agree and will be looking for a metal impeller pump when replacing.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 06:57 PM
  #120  
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I mean its very common that Everyone says the FAN Kicks on and the Temps SHOOT Down no matter the Pump size they had

You want to run cooler Custom tune the Fan different

Guess its obvious I didn't agree with some changes Ford Made LOL
 
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