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Snowseekers 6.0 experience.

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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 06:12 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Misky6.0
Snow,

Really really really appreciate the picture of the backside of engine with complete exhaust system on.
Will rep when i can...
I repped him for both of us.

Great thread Andy!! Keep up the good work and post up as many pics as you can.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 06:17 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker
This one is still good, its gonna take its new parts and like it.
It may be cheaper for you to buy a shortblock with a warranty. Just saying.....
 
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 06:43 PM
  #48  
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More pictures of random stuff.





This is the cylinder head with the deal hole.


 
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 06:49 PM
  #49  
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Those pictures look eerily familiar--LOL.

Well.......The dead hole if obviously from the cam/lifter. If the cylinder walls look good, lifter bore is good, and heads are good then a Cam isn't that expensive it's just a lot of work to put in but can be done without pulling the pistons/rods out. I'd put rod and main bearings in, have the heads done, and let her rip.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 07:00 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
Those pictures look eerily familiar--LOL.

Well.......The dead hole if obviously from the cam/lifter. If the cylinder walls look good, lifter bore is good, and heads are good then a Cam isn't that expensive it's just a lot of work to put in but can be done without pulling the pistons/rods out. I'd put rod and main bearings in, have the heads done, and let her rip.


I'm hoping. The cylinder walls and lifter bore are nice.

I am honestly hoping the crank can be lifted enough for the cam to clear without unbolting the rods.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 07:48 PM
  #51  
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Cam and lifters on their way. lol
 
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 08:18 PM
  #52  
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Anyone pulled the no no bolts and rear crank balancer? Whats under there? Anyone have a pic? I hear there is a keyway but no one ever gets them back on right for some reason.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 09:08 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
You'd better check the front cover first. It may be trashed and give you a chance to upgrade to the 100mm water pump cover.
Maybe If Trashed But if Not






Just get a Good water Pump with Metal Impellar
That Metal shaft and Plastic Impellar combo sucks
 
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 09:10 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker
Anyone pulled the no no bolts and rear crank balancer? Whats under there? Anyone have a pic? I hear there is a keyway but no one ever gets them back on right for some reason.

NO NO NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't Pull them

You will be buying a Crankshaft if you do its a Machine fit Part

Its a Balance thing it might Eat seals and journals and all Hell bust Loose LOL

Can See right where the rear main seal RIdes on it with rear cover off
 
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 09:28 PM
  #55  
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Here Ford Test for Heads

https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...adFlatness.pdf

Turns into a Video Its Pretty Good FORD SPec check

Thought I had something Different From the Way Cheezit recommended to check Heads I cant find it yet
I do remember he mentioned some stuff in the Video he was doing to tesst
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 03:23 AM
  #56  
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From: Spanaway
Originally Posted by Snowseeker
Anyone pulled the no no bolts and rear crank balancer? Whats under there? Anyone have a pic? I hear there is a keyway but no one ever gets them back on right for some reason.
If you look on Ebay sometimes you can find one that someone has done IT.
But the way the grind the crank after the cap is bolted in place is the
reason that I think they say it's a NO NO. If there is not a key of some type
then you never going to get it to line up right without regrinding it.

Sean
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 05:42 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker
I am honestly hoping the crank can be lifted enough for the cam to clear without unbolting the rods.
Unfortunately it's not that easy. Timing the cam and crank is a trick because of the angle cut gears. You can be one tooth off and it "looks" good, but when you use the timing tool you'll find that your off. You can pull the crank and cam and leave the pistons in the block but it takes some serious work and patience to get it back in because of the rods and crank throws interfering with each other. I ended up having to turn my crank because I had a main get scratched up from metal going through the system.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 03:11 PM
  #58  
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So you guys are saying I should just pull those bolts out take the balancer off and slide the cam out. K, be right back.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 03:17 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker
So you guys are saying I should just pull those bolts out take the balancer off and slide the cam out. K, be right back.
Yup and order a new crank while you're at it--LOL.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 03:23 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker
Anyone pulled the no no bolts and rear crank balancer? Whats under there? Anyone have a pic? I hear there is a keyway but no one ever gets them back on right for some reason.

Josh
 
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