Snowseekers 6.0 experience.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 437
Likes: 1
From: Bucyrus, KS
Yea I'd say your on the right track there. I've learned especially with Older farmers that there is belief that diesel oil changes can go 10-15,000 miles. Another issue is some people believe you can put amsoil in something and change it every 25-30,000 miles because someone they know does it and works. I know a guy that goes 20,000 on a Duramax with Amsoil with no bypass or oil analysis and once again someone told him it was ok. I don't really believe in extended oil changes. I've gone up to 10,000 in my 6.7 with T6 synthetic but I pulled a sample at 7500 and sent it off. They told me to put another 2500 on it. I pulled a sample at 10,000 and it was still good but they recommend I change it. Since then I just change it at 7500 since my usage varies. Sometimes I beat the crap out of it for a month straight and in the winter it just hauls the occasional Bobcat and some groceries. I'm pretty sure run6.0run went 600,000 + on Motorcraft 15w40 and changed it frequently maybe thats the ticket just change it at 5,000 no matter what you stick in there. Just my .02 and it prob aint worth that. haha
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
We have a 6.9 with over 500K miles that ran 15-40 all its life. We have a 7.3 turbo going on 450K now and still going that always runs on 15-40. I don't think the oil used is much of an issue as actually changing it.
I always have and always will change oil on everything around 3K miles. My personal truck(s) never hit 3K in one year so I just change them in the spring after winter storage once a year.
We just retired our 95 with a 351 that also has 400K on the clock without any motor issues its entire life. My old 89 with a 300I6 had something like 300K on the clock and survived all my teenage years with routine oil changes, also never a motor problem.
Gotta change that oil! lol
I always have and always will change oil on everything around 3K miles. My personal truck(s) never hit 3K in one year so I just change them in the spring after winter storage once a year.
We just retired our 95 with a 351 that also has 400K on the clock without any motor issues its entire life. My old 89 with a 300I6 had something like 300K on the clock and survived all my teenage years with routine oil changes, also never a motor problem.
Gotta change that oil! lol
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City MO
I did my 785k mi service last week. Oil n fuel. I made it 582k mi and that proved to be the life of these lifters. I lost ten of them. So it wasn't a random failure. I've only ran mc 1540. No matter the westher,,, just cause I don't have many cold starts on a change cycle,,, I've actually done many cycles where I've only turned the key off to change the oil. It'd run 24/7. When we were full time driving,,, I'd change the oil at least every 5 days. It was always within 5-10 miles of 5000. Thx to Fumoto. No drain pan needed. I'd pull over n change it wherever we were. Mostly Walmart parking lots. Lol. I'm considering switching to T6 since we're home more lately,, Home more=more cold starts. But it mostly sits at the shop lately as our "shop truck". Really makes me wish I would've bought this truck new,, but I bought a 06 DRW 6,0 new in 06,, n put 400k on it. So me n Julie have personally put almost 1.2 million miles sittin in 2 06, 6.0's collectively.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 437
Likes: 1
From: Bucyrus, KS
That is crazy. Take that RV.net with your Cummins fetish. Funny thing is I've have seen more Cummins motors window a block than Powerstrokes. Wait no powerstrokes at all come to think of it. One of my good friends window'd his Cummins at 200,000 and another one had 225,000 I think his didn't window but it had so much blowby that he had to add a quart every 100miles.Both were untuned. So I'm no fan of those six bangers.
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
From the failures of lifters I have been seeing I would for sure be changing them out before 200K miles if I were doing or planning any other motor work.
Honestly, any 6.0 that I would own the first thing I would do is save up $2000 and then pull the motor out and tear it down. New lifters, new head gaskets, ARP's, egr delete, turbo rebuild and cleaning, oil cooler, new water pump, and be done with it.
Like mentioned many times here before it is worth it to catch the little problems even before they are problems before you have big problems at a bad time.
Honestly, any 6.0 that I would own the first thing I would do is save up $2000 and then pull the motor out and tear it down. New lifters, new head gaskets, ARP's, egr delete, turbo rebuild and cleaning, oil cooler, new water pump, and be done with it.
Like mentioned many times here before it is worth it to catch the little problems even before they are problems before you have big problems at a bad time.
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
That is crazy. Take that RV.net with your Cummins fetish. Funny thing is I've have seen more Cummins motors window a block than Powerstrokes. Wait no powerstrokes at all come to think of it. One of my good friends window'd his Cummins at 200,000 and another one had 225,000 I think his didn't window but it had so much blowby that he had to add a quart every 100miles.Both were untuned. So I'm no fan of those six bangers.
Which years? I have heard that some are good and some are bad just like ford diesels. An I6 is naturally balanced and are normally very good motors no matter what they are.
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
Yeah I grabbed the camera late again today.
Turbo all apart and everything cleaned and ready to put together again.
Doesn't look much like it but it is clean and smooth.
Housing and ring cleaned and smooth. Vanes were just wiped down clean and installed as is. I think the oil helped clean everything out for me ahead of time. There wasn't much carbon deposit at all to put up with.
I put the shaft in the lathe and used an edge of a screw driver to clean the carbon off the shaft. Worked great! Pic with new ring installed.
Bushings and cage thingymabob.
Slide it in, wobble the shaft to pop the ring in the housing and spin on the impeller.
Line up all the lines with the oil drain. Not much needed with the alignment pins in the housings on this unit.
Instal with new turbo instal kit.
Not much left!
Turbo all apart and everything cleaned and ready to put together again.
Doesn't look much like it but it is clean and smooth.
Housing and ring cleaned and smooth. Vanes were just wiped down clean and installed as is. I think the oil helped clean everything out for me ahead of time. There wasn't much carbon deposit at all to put up with.
I put the shaft in the lathe and used an edge of a screw driver to clean the carbon off the shaft. Worked great! Pic with new ring installed.
Bushings and cage thingymabob.
Slide it in, wobble the shaft to pop the ring in the housing and spin on the impeller.
Line up all the lines with the oil drain. Not much needed with the alignment pins in the housings on this unit.
Instal with new turbo instal kit.
Not much left!
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 437
Likes: 1
From: Bucyrus, KS
My 2 friends that have replaced motors both had 05s. Ive read on other forums that the back cylinder tends to fail on those Common Rail motors. But yea I'm with ya on the I6. They usually run forever. Ford's 300 I6 and the Jeep 4.0 I6 are prime examples on gassers anyways.
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You been pi$$ing around with this engine for year's now.
Is it in and running yet? 
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
hahahahaha. Are you trying to goad him Adam? I'm learning lots plus it gives me something to do during the day.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 215
Likes: 1
From: Buffalo NY
Crap, is his name Andy too? I think we found the link to our problems.
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
haha, you guys crack me up! 
I found a couple boxes on the doorstep! It is a new OEM lpop and new OEM water pump!
New exhaust flex section is on the way to fix the bad one on the drivers side up pipe. I just may have to put this thing back in the truck soon.
Next I'll have to spend a few bones on fluids. Is the regular pink ELC good for the 6.0?
I found a couple boxes on the doorstep! It is a new OEM lpop and new OEM water pump!
New exhaust flex section is on the way to fix the bad one on the drivers side up pipe. I just may have to put this thing back in the truck soon.
Next I'll have to spend a few bones on fluids. Is the regular pink ELC good for the 6.0?
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
Few more things in today.
Oil pump, why does it say cover?
Then new water pump in, pulley back on, ground wire for battery back on, and power steering pump back on. The power steering pump is very wet and I worry the shaft seal leaks or the high pressure line fitting at the pump leaks. Is the pump a hard change when in the truck? Can it be reached easily from the bottom?
I just have to install the main seals and fix the one flex joint in the exhaust and I guess it is ready to go back in!
No input on the pink ELC?
Oil pump, why does it say cover?
Then new water pump in, pulley back on, ground wire for battery back on, and power steering pump back on. The power steering pump is very wet and I worry the shaft seal leaks or the high pressure line fitting at the pump leaks. Is the pump a hard change when in the truck? Can it be reached easily from the bottom?
I just have to install the main seals and fix the one flex joint in the exhaust and I guess it is ready to go back in!
No input on the pink ELC?