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My question is if I need to remove and replace JUST the sector shaft end cap, how would I go about it? Basically, I do NOT want to pull the sector shaft, but need to remove the endcap to replace it. The threaded allen head bolt with a nut on it, is to make gear lash adjustments, correct? At least I am pretty sure it is, I do not want to pull the complete sector shaft just replace the top cap that some folks call it a side cap. My research has some some statements.My idea is to just use an allen key and hold the inner threaded part (bolt on top of sector shaft cap) in one place. Take the nut off, hold the allen key in its original position and then unthread the end cap from the sector shaft? Replace the cap the same way?
"And what about....readjust the freeplay on the sector shaft after assembly. To do this, use an Allen key and wrench. Turn the Allen key until there is a little resistance half way between steering extremes - the midpoint - and then back off a little bit (perhaps 15-20 degrees)"
"If I had replaced the bearing inside, I would have had to readjust the freeplay on the sector shaft after assembly. To do this, use an Allen key and wrench. Turn the Allen key until there is a little resistance half way between steering extremes - the mid point - and then back off a little bit (perhaps 15-20 degrees)"
"PS in Spg article: Even though it’s on top, it’s called the Side Cover, and it comes off next. Four bolts are removed, then the threaded adjuster stud, at the top of the pitman shaft, is turned clockwise with an Allen wrench to remove the cover from the shaft.
Reinstall: An O-ring is set with stiff lube into the channel of the side cover, then the top of the Pitman shaft is rotated to bring the side cover down flush, and four new bolts are installed. A dab of silicone sealer is then applied to the shaft where it extends through the side cover. “The only place you ever use silicone in a power steering system is right here on this little bolt,” Chip stresses, adding that silicone and power steering systems are a very bad combination."
What about? Adjusting gear lash? on the bench only, when it’s got just the right feel, the lock nut is tightened, then the setting is rechecked."
telephone West TX Off Rd? they R bronk buddies (2 decades?) & rebuild these things.
I am not the 1 to ask as all I no is "do not crank on that (1 U speak abt)
nut down! U can damage it." (the inside/whatever is under it).
A new thread at CB (I guess it's called tech now?)?
Visit local ford shop.
Ur 4wheelin buds - is any1 is a ford guy?
No worries I am not just going to go ***** nilly taking that nut off and replacing things (top cap called a side cap) without knowing the proper procedure. I am taking it to the guy (professional p/s shop) that sourced me a replacement box and swapped the guts when I cracked my box last time.
He says 10 min job, 10 bucks and I get to watch and learn. Step 23/24
good.
I can't do it (life) w/o my friends'n neighbors. I would literally B no thing w/o them. U shoulda seen Us 15, 16 mo ago w/the covid.
The F^%Kin town deserted as they waited on the state, the state wuz waitin on the fed, etc, etc. WE got to wrk & took care of each other.
"F" them.
# 23/4 right B4 ur very eyes, good~
So I drive an hour in really crappy traffic to get the new and recently modified (4 bolt top cap) installed. It was going good until the certain "Profesional" did not use a torque wrench and just gorilla torque the nuts holding the cap down. So when he used a 1/2 drive ratchet and a deep set socket and when all "heave ho" on it, he cracked an ear on one corner.....I was standing there watching and got PO as ever. My project was dead in the water at that moment.
He says is was because I was using the longer threaded studs and no washers under the nuts. And yes it is not the normal hdwr set up. Funny thing is when I installed those studs and used a torque wrench on the nuts, I did not break anything. And the set up was working great, until a part HE installed last time cracked. Also funny how it has hammer marks on it....
I can see a trend here, so I am sourcing a very HD replacement 4 bolt cap, drilling and tapping it and then getting it done right this time. Like with a friggin torque wrench.
"...cracked an ear ..."
I wuz hopin anything like this could B avoided w/a 'pro'.
"...with a friggin torque wrench..."
how I attack a "parked when ran" froz motor sometimes.
Would you wanna phone WTx Off Rd 4 a chat 1st? Chuck @ BCB
has been generous w/phone time too (1990 - how to disc break a rear).
Here is my soon to be mine and modded HD cap...I guess since the guy broke mine, he felt bad and offered this one. Ya think YEA? I guess another customer did not want that cap anymore. The blue box is my (working area) to be able to drill and tap for one hydro assist line.
Yes I am taking the case for the roller pin (bearing set up) out and putting a solid bushing in its place.
the billet looks nice.
Part (ALL?) done w/cnc?
I can just imagine the bridgeport w/an index head,
hear the cutter, see the alu chips (no curls here) drop.
Seems like a product local's would line up w/fists of $ ?
Well I now have my new replacement cap drilled and tapped for adding hydro assist. Now to just locate a new needle bearing for it, get it put in then get the caps swapped.
The only concern I would have with the new Cap is the thickness (beef) of the wall thickness holding the bearing in place. I suppose these caps have been thoroughly field-tested by the manufacturer.
_ _ _ or by You soon !! gas-it when in Doubt, and hang on for dear life !
I like your scruffy old beat-up red early Bronco on page #1 of this thread !!
I haven't read through all pages yet. so i thought I'd pop in and say hi anyway.
Two years ago i assisted a good friend with painting his pieces and parts "now '72" Bronco.
It got me away from my projects for a welcome breather, and he needed some supervision. (a brave soul).
I was the cook (paint mixer) and he was the busser (paint applier), and between the two of us we got the body tub painted one year, and all other pieces the following year Aug 2019. It looked like ford raptor gray.
My father in law drove these early bronco's new while working in Africa, and he said they were all over the road because of being short-coupled.
I have not yet plumbed-in a steering assist in a vehicle, but really no different than early units on cars.
Yes the caps internal bearing "wall" is not all that thick, but at least it does get some outside support from the steering box body itself, when installed.
Yes the ol Bronco has been years of fun. It is not a DD pavement rig and hardley gets over 20 MPH on any given trail ride.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
