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Well Poop !
I ran into a brick wall Tuesday evening. I got all set up to sandblast the inside of two front fenders, a lower grill cowl and the backside of my front chrome bumper. SandyJet wouldn't blow sand !! grumble grumble.
Actually i was trying to cuss quietly. My wife says to wear a muzzle.
Long story short, I *****-canned the #3 sand, and had to switch to black diamond media yesterday, wrapped tape around my porcelain nozzle for a tight fit, and it worked. yeaay hooooray.
We deserve to get lucky once in awhile as a reward for our efforts put forth. _ _ right ! _ _ i keep wishing.
I don't know enough about these boxes to help troubleshoot your no-ps dilema.
Not to worry, because while sleeping on it, you might have a brain-fart and come to a conclusion !! plus plus.
knew a guy who did that w/his golf clubs. These sound a lill less expensive.
I run away in frustration (no tears tho) and get on another job till calm dwn &
can return (today, tomorrow, or L A T E R).
Well worked on the other end for a change. Putting the gas tank skid plate on so I can quite beating it up. And realized that when I put the rear bumper on (with the square tubing that goes inside the frame rail) I totally blocked off the skid plates OEM holes, from the inside. So not I have to drill holes thru the metal tubing that is INSIDE the frame rail.....always something.
The 2 square tubes went inside the frame rails...
Well quick Google search showed me a easy way to drill thru a frame rail for the relocation of the steering stabilizer bracket. Also works great when you have to drill thru a skid plate, a frame rail and square tubing inside the frame rail all in one shot. Also added some muffler extensions so I quite heat soaking my fuel tank. I needed some spare metal to extend the skid plate to more of the front of the fuel tank....
Yes the jack/drill trick worked great. 3 of the 4 rock lights installed. Front ones are to high, tomorrow I am going to look to a different place to mount them to be lower and lighting up more of the axel and inboard tire area.
Well as far as the front I do not need my fenderwell illuminated. I am thinking of putting it where the inner fenderwell goes from the flat middle part and transitions back to the down sloping area. That will get the light lower, and in turn should put more light on the inner tire and suspension. The back one is mounted to the bottom of the body and above the rock slider bar attachment tube, so it is very well protected.
Well while finishing up my rock light wiring this am I look over and see this....When did this happen, how did I miss this? Must of happened on my last off roading trip. No sound, no tell tell clunk clunk. I know I looked it over before we hit the trails. And it sure did not JUST happen. There is long term damage.
Getting to it.
Egg shaped, bent inwards and with material missing. So NO reusing this one. Oh now where is my spare axle short shaft?
All my spares are not so good, so I used the opportunity to upgrade. So now as it sets I have to wait until Thursday to get some replacement 4340 ChroMoly front axles that comes with CTM joints from Wild Horses.
Made from 4340 chromoly. Provides up to 50% increased strength over stock axles.
Machined for full snap rings. C-clip snap rings are known to come off under high stress.
1.189" O.D. U-joints. Stock Bronco U-joint caps measure 1.063", the chromoly axles use the large O.D. caps for added strength.
When they come in Thursday I have to get it in and back together, then do the other side and then load if for Fridays take off to SMORR. Gonna test those new axle shafts right away.
Well.............the new axles came in and the dvrs side went in 1st. But.....after getting it all back together late thursday night, I could not get the Warn model 9790 "inner locking hub mechanism" to go in far enough to get the large outer hub snap ring to go in. After working on it real late thursday and fri morning and taking things apart and putting back together about 100 times. Checked the inner bearing race for correct depth, no weird parts when it came apart. No parts left off during reassembly. Even after new wheel bearing, trying a different hub/rotor. A different spindle...nope.
So friday at noon we loaded the son in laws Bronco and went to SMORR with just one rig. Wheeled fri and sat am and had a blast. Then "I" managed to snap a passenger side inner axle shaft and proceeded to get all sort of bad stuck. Winch cable drag time, got it out and finally made it back to camp. Loaded and came home.
So......I talked to the axle vendor this am and it seems that YES the axle shafts (short shafts) were machined INCORRECTLY, by their axle supplier. The splines were not cut far enough down the axle shaft and that was what was causing me to have issues. And now I have a complete new set coming this way.....And that is all I am saying at the moment.
As far as its gonna go.
The problem was these splines were not cut far enough down the shaft.
Looks the same as a stock Spicer (top pic) but sure is not exactily the same.
Update. Once my new axles made it back to the vendor (on their shipping dime) they put new/different/correct outers on (I believe GM ones, long enough to have 2 groves for snap rings and the end were drilled and tapped) and they fast shipped (2 day air yea) back to me.
None the less the ol Bronco did not make that trip and in all the waiting around and cleaning up, I discovered the need to replace at least for sure the dvrs side upper ball joint. And if I am changing the ONE upper I am changing lower. And if I am doing one side....the other side is getting changed too. So going to get some Spicer OEM's ball joints and have at it.
No sense in putting all back together and risk a ball joint failure and trash a brand new set of axles.
