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If I remember right the "strap" between is indeed plastic and pretty much obsolete. I seem to remember mine was breaking into pieces when I got my crew years ago and they were no longer available and very hard to find used. My plan was to make the headliner out of aluminum with dynomat or similar on the back side and then wrap that in fabric. I was going to have the 2 pieces overlapping each other with a bead rolled step in them which could be screwed directly into the support bar for the roof. This would ditch the need for that middle strap. I was going to use riv-nuts vs. metal screws, but the sheet metal screws would have held it just fine. I have the templates here still but never got around to making the headliner.
Having had a supercab as well I could see making a 2 piece headliner to make it easier to deal with on install or removal. It would have to be custom though so hopefully you have a decent one to use as a template.
What about the metal strap covering the seam? I have a supercab and no one make a one piece headliner. I like the idea of making it a 2 piece.
Any links for education or photos of the ceiling? Is the middle metal strap available aftermarket or just jy only?
Thanks
If you scroll back a couple pages, you can see what I did. I have no idea if there is a cross member above the headliner in the supercab, like there is in the crew. That would determine if you need to fabricate something to separate the two sections.
Hey, guys I found a good motor here in Houston. It’s a 466 (.30 over) with comp cam and roller rockers, dual plane high rise intake, 10.5:1 compression, Holley 750 DP (not in the pic), solid lifters.
The builder said it’s good for 550-600hp. I have a dyno scheduled for next week, we are going to see what it can do.
If you scroll back a couple pages, you can see what I did. I have no idea if there is a cross member above the headliner in the supercab, like there is in the crew. That would determine if you need to fabricate something to separate the two sections.
I was actually thinking about pulling 1 or 2 supports at the jy to install in my scab. More supports for the ceiling and interior lighting.
I was actually thinking about pulling 1 or 2 supports at the jy to install in my scab. More supports for the ceiling and interior lighting.
This looks really good, I would think to add as much support as possible. Don’t want any rattling when you are driving around. When I get to this spot I was thinking on using the open cell spray foam to fill gaps.
I was actually thinking about pulling 1 or 2 supports at the jy to install in my scab. More supports for the ceiling and interior lighting.
Originally Posted by PhoneMann
This looks really good, I would think to add as much support as possible. Don’t want any rattling when you are driving around. When I get to this spot I was thinking on using the open cell spray foam to fill gaps.
A company called "Factory Fab" out of Idaho(I think) has just started producing aftermarket hidden roof supports and sheetmetal for Drip rail replacement/rot.
A company called "Factory Fab" out of Idaho(I think) has just started producing aftermarket hidden roof supports and sheetmetal for Drip rail replacement/rot.
A company called "Factory Fab" out of Idaho(I think) has just started producing aftermarket hidden roof supports and sheetmetal for Drip rail replacement/rot.
Going to start cleaning up my floorboards. Here are some pics. They are pretty good to start with just had some rust spots, so I flap brushed the spots down then treated the rust and painted with a rust converter paint.
Hey guys, _ _ Happy New Year
So another year dealing with Covid variants. If our Crew Cabs develope rust symptoms in year 2022, does this signify the truck (pickup) now has developed a Covid Variant ? hahahaha
I wish i had installed an additional roof support in my '77 4-door cab.
So I ordered a rim from B&R Auto Wrecking, and it was about 35 bucks I think. They had to ship it from Reno to Vegas, to their sister yard here I guess. Anyway, the guy told me that it was a rim only, even though there was a tire on it in the picture. I said fine, as it was only listed as a rim. Well, yesterday I ran over there to pick it up, and damn if it didn't have an almost new tire on it! Made my friggin day! I thought I was going to have to pay almost 200 bucks for a tire to match my others.
It is about an inch taller than the others, but for now, and seeing as how I didn't have a spare before, It will have to do. I had to paint it match the other wheels, and then tested my winch assembly that I built a couple weeks ago, and it works great!
The exhaust is about an inch closer than I had figured, obviously due to the larger tire, but I am going to either build a sheet metal heat shield, or wrap the exhaust pipe right there with the heat tape, or both.
Need to drill another hole in the hitch mount on both sides, and put a third bolt in each side of that.
Dang, it looks like it "wentintight" Goesintight. LoL
Did you get the pipe wrapped yet ?
You should Kick me, because i was in town last month in Chico, Ca. (65-miles south of me), and so popped into lhe local Pick-n-Pull yard. They were picked over, BUTT, there was a nice set of aluminum wheels with 255-16 BFG mud tires for $215.00.
I hesitated and didn't purchase the set of 4. Now I regret passing up them.
They may have "goneintight" had I tried to mount them. hahahaha
NVfab has made some more progress. Seats are mocked up, truck is sitting on its own weight and CBR radiator is mounted. Suspension cycles 14” front and 24” travel in the rear.they said they will be working on it some more this week so I am looking forward to more updates.
