Crewcab Only Thread.
I need a nice rear door trim
for my build. Thanks.
Those photos are priceless for us member's to refer to while dissecting panels for Cab Preservation.
One Note: way back when I was building a Wood-Cutting CrewCab, there was a big idea that I wish I had followed thru with:
the roof panels really can use additional cross supports.
Back when I was jacking the roof back in place and pushing the support back into proper position was when my first "thought" was to pull a few supports out of a Ford E-Series Van, and then modify to fit, and weld-in Two additional roof cross supports. I STILL WISH i WOULD HAVE.
Plus, also the supports give you something to attach the headliner base material to for good support.
@dbeers02 the roof panel pieces you used for donor, did you cut them out of stad cabs from the '73-79 year span of cabs ?
Also just curious of if you are using a mig machine with .026 ga wire ?
There was a std cab 2wd '78 pickup at our local P-n-P yard with lower race track trim which I would modify carefully to fit a Crew rear door.
Speaking of Crew Cab rear doors: When I was looking for a rear door, I had to buy my now, '77 F350 longbed 2wd cab and chassis to get the door. hahaha
Then put my '77 good rest free cab onto the longbed F350 chassis, and coverted to 4x4, using '76 high-boy front spring crossmember, springs, shackles and frame mount bracketry too. Works very well even 25-years running. All OEM stuff, so easy for servicing.
where does a guy find replacement Rear Doors today, or do we need to make our own from pieces and parts. ?
I've been waiting for warm dayz to pressure wash the under-side of my '77 Crew, then give it some love with a good Scrub and fresh paint for sealing.
Personally, I do not use bed-liner or Por-15 Gook on my chassis and axle assemblies. I like using good ol Krylon or Rustoleum paints for chassis and drivetrain components. Other than rock chips and such, the paint seals well for our NorCal arid climate.
Back in 1996 when piecing together my Crew, I purchased all of my cab Rubber's from JCWhitney from the Catalogue pre-internet for me.
Now, today, 25-years since building my '77, the little Greaser-built 300-inline "mini-cummins-gasser" is still running like a Singer, and w/ a Clevite late '69's grind camshaft and steel timing gears, that whine like a mini-blower at idle. hahaha LoL
My "300 - mini-cummins-gasser" could use about 25-psi of Garrett electric Turbo-Boost to run with the Big Dogs. snicker
is from a 1979 supercab that is trimmed down. The others are from standard cabs. I panel bonded the panels together and to the drip rail structure. Strong and water proof permanently water proof sealed clear through each panel and the problem area at the drip rail.
as far as rear doors, not many options. I rebuilt the lower 1/3 of each rear door inside and out. Took some time. They came out good. Welded top edge, panel bonded the door lip. Bond created a perfect seal so no water can get in the folded over skin lip so hopefully no further rust.
QUOTE=Greaser007;21159348]My brain is now Overdosed with the Cab refurbishing that @dbeers02 so masterfully performed.
Those photos are priceless for us member's to refer to while dissecting panels for Cab Preservation.
One Note: way back when I was building a Wood-Cutting CrewCab, there was a big idea that I wish I had followed thru with:
the roof panels really can use additional cross supports.
Back when I was jacking the roof back in place and pushing the support back into proper position was when my first "thought" was to pull a few supports out of a Ford E-Series Van, and then modify to fit, and weld-in Two additional roof cross supports. I STILL WISH i WOULD HAVE.
Plus, also the supports give you something to attach the headliner base material to for good support.
@dbeers02 the roof panel pieces you used for donor, did you cut them out of stad cabs from the '73-79 year span of cabs ?
Also just curious of if you are using a mig machine with .026 ga wire ?
There was a std cab 2wd '78 pickup at our local P-n-P yard with lower race track trim which I would modify carefully to fit a Crew rear door.
Speaking of Crew Cab rear doors: When I was looking for a rear door, I had to buy my now, '77 F350 longbed 2wd cab and chassis to get the door. hahaha
Then put my '77 good rest free cab onto the longbed F350 chassis, and coverted to 4x4, using '76 high-boy front spring crossmember, springs, shackles and frame mount bracketry too. Works very well even 25-years running. All OEM stuff, so easy for servicing.
where does a guy find replacement Rear Doors today, or do we need to make our own from pieces and parts. ?
I've been waiting for warm dayz to pressure wash the under-side of my '77 Crew, then give it some love with a good Scrub and fresh paint for sealing.
Personally, I do not use bed-liner or Por-15 Gook on my chassis and axle assemblies. I like using good ol Krylon or Rustoleum paints for chassis and drivetrain components. Other than rock chips and such, the paint seals well for our NorCal arid climate.
Back in 1996 when piecing together my Crew, I purchased all of my cab Rubber's from JCWhitney from the Catalogue pre-internet for me.
Now, today, 25-years since building my '77, the little Greaser-built 300-inline "mini-cummins-gasser" is still running like a Singer, and w/ a Clevite late '69's grind camshaft and steel timing gears, that whine like a mini-blower at idle. hahaha LoL
My "300 - mini-cummins-gasser" could use about 25-psi of Garrett electric Turbo-Boost to run with the Big Dogs. snicker[/QUOTE]
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Thank you very much for your thorough explanation of how you saved and reconstructed the roof.
By the way, when you said you used Panel-Bond for attaching roof panel pieces together, and for attaching the Roof-to-Drip-Rails.
A close friend who has worked his career in Auto-Body repair in a Ford dealership, cannot say enought Good about the benefits of Panel-Bond use.
There was a '77 F350 factory longbed CrewCab chassis for sale a couple years back already, and I was SO TEMPTED to purchase it as they are SCARCE.
Here in California, DMV uses the Chassis numbers to dictate the registration of a pieced together conglomeration of parts to make a complete vehicle.
I just wrestled with a No-Fuel issue on my 300 six with Holley 600 cfm universal carb.
Discovered the pump was sucking 15-inches, pushing 7-inches, and sucking air because of a split fuel hose at the connection to the fuel pump. go figure.
Always something, and Panel-Bond probably would not have worked for this gremlin. hahaha
Keep wrenching and dreaming
It is not mine, but I do know there are people looking for these.
And, for Calif, it's pre-smog.
1970 ford f350 crew cab 4x4 for sale by owner - Millville, CA - craigslist
I tried to upload a photo from my laptop, but don't know anything about photo URL's. I had no luck listing in the Marketplace either, and I did try.
I thought I could simply drag and drop, but it appears I have to have the photo residing on some second-party website like Flickr, or PhotoBucket or whatever. wtf
Why must it be so frigging difficult to simply attach a photo for everyone's behalf ?
_ _ _ guys, I gave it a good try and failed due to website Logistics.
The price seems a bit steep until you look at what you are getting, being a rare CrewCab which for us Calif folks is PRE_SMOG.
I look at this CrewCab in the eyes of how many man-hours have already been applied to cleaning up the body and mechanical's.
The value is not in Paint, but the structure and rarity of these CrewCab's.
I wanted to share this pickup with us CrewCab lovers because each one is unique, regardless of pricing.
Yes, I still have a passion for these 4-door, 6-pack Crummies. LoL
Any of you fitted auxilary heater behind the back seat, i was wondering should get one, i allready have thermo top evo that heats the engine , but becauce trucks own core and blower is not any means nothing more than noisy i could try to fit a cheap chinese diesel heater with own tank, or just proper parking heater that takes fuel from the trucks own tank, that could be easily controlled by the same mobile app that i have for the engine heater.
The price seems a bit steep until you look at what you are getting, being a rare CrewCab which for us Calif folks is PRE_SMOG.
I look at this CrewCab in the eyes of how many man-hours have already been applied to cleaning up the body and mechanical's.
The value is not in Paint, but the structure and rarity of these CrewCab's.
I wanted to share this pickup with us CrewCab lovers because each one is unique, regardless of pricing.
Yes, I still have a passion for these 4-door, 6-pack Crummies. LoL
Good find! It looks pretty straight and rust free, but it's still overpriced.
Now if it has a fully documented, freshly rebuilt motor by a reputable shop (which doesn't appear to be the case), rebuilt transmission, transfer case, and axles, working EVERYTHING, then maybe it's in the 20's in value. My guess is that the F-350 longbed conversion to 4x4 is probably more of a liability than an asset, but I'd be happy to be wrong about that!
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