it’s actually a chevy color, Admiral blue. The paint booth is darker than it should be. I can’t wait to get it out in the sun. I saw this color on a Vette and just had to have it on my truck.

 

Well, I’m still waiting for my truck to be finished. Anyway, the truck needs everything, any suggestions on where to start? I was thinking on wiring, door seals and interior, like new seats and console from a newer truck. I’m a larger person so need big seats to be comfortable.

 

Hmm,
I am wondering if we need to start an CrewCab Thread no. 2.
For some reason, I had trouble adding photos to this thread, and when clicking on "add photo", the program locked up. hmmm.
There are 251 pages in the crewcab thread. Do we just continue to add more ?
I was able to add a photo Thrusday evening, Oct 21. of the concept '69 Crew.

Just a few days ago, I wrote a lengthy dissertation of some of what I have learned doing 4x conversions, and when I went to add a photo, this program locked up and I lost everything I had typed.

I don't have any in-construction photos of my '77, because back in 1996 when i was doing my frame-off build, I was not yet on the internet, so no place to share photos then, so no history shots.

 

Testing adding a photo…

 

Looks like you passed the test.

 

That red crew passes all tests. Is it a '76 ?

Ok, I'll try once again:


above photo from internet of Gateway Bronco's concept 1969 Crew. I like !!
Decades ago in the mid '70's, a local guy who lived 50-some miles in the sticks, drove a '71 longbed high-boy powered by a 300 inline Six. (it could have been a '69 or '70)
Back then mostly only logging men and utility workers drove these endlessly long beasts. For daily use, I'd have to run 38" Dick Cepek funn countries to drop the truck down to accessible height.
The turquoise and white is buff.
On my 300 powered F-350 Longbed crew '77 2wd to 4x4 self-made high boy, I'm running 255-16's and 4.10 gears.
Originally I ran 3.50 gears, and in the mountains and pulling a 3500 lb trailer, the 4.10's were better.
Now if I were to drop a nicely warmed 385 series 460, I think for my mountainous roads, I'd still be better off running 4.10's. If i were running the flat Sacramento valley, the 3.50's would be much better for gas mileage. well, maybe not, as it takes a certain amount of fuel to move a certain of weight.
My son's 5.7L Toyota Tundra averages 12mpg running 35's flat ground.
My '77 will average 13 on a 200 mile trek empty, so close to the modern day OD Tundra. LoL

Ok, enough bs for the night. enjoy the '69 concept

 

‘74, thanks! That’s a sweet ‘69.

In other news, Factory Fab is now making replacement drip rails for crews, along with roof braces to add some support that the factory didn’t.

 

So I took my entire dash out to address some minor issues I was having with a vac leak, and my dash cluster lights not working. while I had it out I painted




up everything and cleaned up 40+ years of dirt. Got everything back together and now I dont have brake lights. I found some bad wire connections, and fixed them, but I think I may have disconnected the hot wire to the brake. Does anyone know the color of wire I may have disconnected? I know I can probably just run another wire to the switch, but I have 2 wires that were not being used when I put it back together. There were about 5 when I started removing them and patching the holes in the fire wall. The ones left are original wires, but I just want to connect the right one if possible.

 

Dang ! Nice job on the Dash-rehab Pete.
Did it go in tight ? hahahaha (Gozintite) LoL
As nice as your dash looks now, I'm gonna have to reconsider mine. I had painted everything but my dash, back when I painted my pickup. Hmmm.

What pointers might you wish to share with us guys if we were to tackle this job ?

 

Well, there are only 5 bolts that hold the dash in place. I disconnected everything like, the bezzle/cluster, the glove box, registers lighter, steering column cover and HVAC/radio. Then there are two bolts above the steering column, one in the e brake bracket, and one at either side of the cab. If I had known how easy it was, I would have done it years ago. I cleaned everything out, with a leaf blower, and dry paint brush, and would strongly suggest eye protection. The shop vac was ok, but wasnt getting to some of the tight areas.


edit: there are a bunch of screws along the top of the dash that need to be removed. 6 total I think, and the ones on eitehr end are hard to get to without a shorty phillips screw driver.
When putting it back together, set the glove box into the opening behind the dash before setting the dash in. I just didnt want to be fighting with it while trying to get it back in place, and risk damaging it, just screwed it back in once the dash was set. Man I couldnt believe all the bad wire connections and holes in the firewall. Would have never seen them if I hadnt done it. The whole damn truck smells better too. I would suggecst not leaving the thing out very long, so you dont forget stuff. Like I did with the brake light wire....

 

After breaking out the old Chilton manual, I was able to chase wires down, and figure out the passenger brake light wasnt working from the damn turn signal switch in the steering column. Would have never figured that out normally, but was patient and chased wires until there was no other solution. I was actually able to disassemble the turn signal switch, clean all the terminals, and put the old one back together and everything is now working. I ordered a new switch, but will just let this one ride for now. For the first time since I have owned this truck, every single light on the exterior not only works, but as it was intended.

 

Gozintite:
Good to hear you had success with your turn signal switch efforts.
And the body of your Crewcab is looking pretty smooth.

So, here I sit not working on my '78 E-259 Chateau wagon, again.
My next step is to re-install my front fenders and such to then run to the glass shop so they can remove the windshield bezel so i can clean and paint the pillars.

 

I am sooooooo pissed right now. I took the head liner panels out that I made years ago, and had some work to do on the trim support for the center, as I cant find the plastic pop on trim piece.
I cut down the track of the trim support, at either side of the cab, as it was forcing a weird transition at the ends.

track cut away

trim modified slightly

center trim support dry fit

trim modified slightly
Modified the trim pieces to accept the new metal at either side.

Went to grab the back head panel, and ****ing dropped it!.........

 

**** me to tears!

 

Yup...but--on the bright side--at least you have a perfect pattern for the new one.