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Where are you located? I know I’ve got a lot in it, which I don’t expect to get it all back. I need to sit down and figure it out. It was built over about 2 to 3 year process and I went through a divorce in the middle of all that so it was money here and there when I had a little extra. What do you think is a fair price? You would need the divorced transfer case also right? It also has a Bronco II rear tank, not sure what tank yours has, but the side tank won’t work with the divorced transfer case and additional cross member.
. I am in asheville just a few hours up the road from you. I have just a cab so far in my quest for a crewcab. I would love to come look at your frame
I was torn between my current colour (white) and my company colour (Mooneyes yellow).
That Sir, may be the answer - it looks awesome as a 2 tone in those colours!!!!
I always thought this would be cool. Plenty of room to sleep in there that way.
Originally Posted by 1KILLERZ
I second that. Would be awesome for sure.
Originally Posted by black & blue 78/9
Should be no different than cars with bucket seats that lean way back. Although most do not lay on the back seat but almost flat.
Originally Posted by Mannysouza
Take the lock out off and fab up some bracketry to run two linear actuators you could even recline the bench a little if you wanted
Originally Posted by DirtyLarry79
Look at the way the front seat back is captured in place. There is a sort of eyelet bolted to both sides of the seat that keeps the back of the seat in place. The wiggle in the seat is from the space in the eyelet. On a normal front seat/ our back seat the eye is made into a hook and when you move the latch for the seat back you’re actually unhooking the same spot the eyelet goes around in our front seats. So it might be possible to modify the hook in the opposite direction to lean back instead of forward.
A stop would complicate things. If you have anything higher than the back seat you’ll be crushing it into the seat. Laying all the way back on the front of the back seat bottom would be nice but it pretty much means your rear floorboard will have to be empty and no one in the back seat. Pretty much no matter what noones gonna be able to be in the back if the front seat is reclined.
I’ll try to post pics of the latch today so we can all visualize it. I believe our front seats have the bar connecting the eyelet on each side just like the latches on the back seats.
Originally Posted by Mannysouza
I just gave away my seats out of my crew cab. Without them and a tape measure it would be impossible to know for sure. But you could slide the seat all the way forward to add a few inches. I remember the eyelet but that is nothing a die grinder couldn’t fix.
Thanks Guys!!!!
I have the back seat out currently, and the front seat needs to come apart in any case, so I might just decouple the front seat hinge and see where the seat back lays out....either way, I will post pics here.
I currently do plenty of solo interstate trips 10 - 12 hours each way in my 05 F250, and random kangaroos hopping across the Highway mean driving while sleepy can be a death sentence.
I'm 6'4", so sleeping sideways across the back seat just ain't cutting it - I'm hoping laying back the front bench in the dentside to meet the back seat base to form a flat bed will allow just enough diagonal angle to make 2 hour roadside power-naps work well!!
Those long drives certainly give me plenty of time to imagineer how I could set up my 75 Crewcab........
Went out to fire up my pickup the other day and engine cranked fine and no-fire. Hmmm (I actually said more than Hmmm).
After looking in the carb intake while working the throttle, the accelerator pump was not squirting fuel. Hmmm.
After removing the carb and replacing the pink rubber umbrella accel pump intake check valve, and still, No Squirt of fuel.
That meant the outlet check valve was not seating, and allowing air to be sucked in instead of fuel for the next squirt.
Off came the carb, and I removed the squirter nozzle, then turned the carb upside down to remove the 'needle'.
I sprayed wd-40 up in the port ro flush, and re-assembled. The accelerator pump is now working once again. Yippie !
To reward myself, I took a break and had a smoke for sanity sakes.
The Holley 4-bbl carb resides on my Clifford equipped inline 300-six banger engine.
Since my restoration / build completion in 1998, the engine has a stumble on accel from a stop sign. I've lived with it.
Way back, I fiddle-farted with power valves, accel pump shooter nozzles and accel cams to no avail.
Recently, however, I spoke with a carb guy and he suggested a 28 size shooter nozzle and a no. 8 or 9 power valve.
Do you think I remembered to check the above while I had the carb off of the engine ? Heck No, dumb me.
Guess I'll be living with the stumble for awhile longer yet.
Pushing around a 6k lb pickup with a 300 cubic inch engine is a struggle. Even tho I had the rotating assembly balanced and running the 4-barrel carb, I don't feel much get-up-and-Go. I know, I should have rebuilt the 400M engine which came in the F350 longbed crewcab 2wd, but at the time I was building me a wood-cutting picku, and we don't need much horsepower driving up into the woods empty. My theory was: I need more brakes coming downhill loaded, than I do horsepower. hahahaha
Just thought I would share my tribulations.
Does $$$$ grow on Trees ?
It had better if you wish to install a oem 4x4 power steering box on your pickup, whether rebuilt or slightly used.
That is why I chose to source a PS box out of a '91 2wd Ford F150 pickup. Nobody has a use for a 2wd PS box right !
Therefore, the Ford corporate PS boxes are almost sold at give-away pricing $40.00 each, with hoses and pitman arm.
The steering box works very well with my home-brew Cross-Over Steering setup using a DynaTrac passenger side steering arm.
Yes, I am just rambling for something to share, but I know there are several Ford Truck Nutts who drive a 2wd wishing it were 4wd.
Personally I feel those expensive-as-gold oem steering boxes used on '77-'79 4wd pickups are OVER-RATED, and a rip-off, unless someone just insists on being a Purist. I can paint the top of my affordable steering box Blue, so I'll have a "blue-top" box. haha
Above photo showing the '91 Ford Corp power steering donor box installed on my home-fab mounting bracket (removable).
Please excuse the filth because my pickup lived 6-years on the Pacific Coast upon completion of my 4x4 conversion.
The front king-pin Dana 60 came from a donor '79 Ford pickup hauled to California from Alaska in 1996.
At the time, I paid $600 smackers for the D-60, and completely disassembled and rebuilt it with $800 in parts. good to go !
Just curious:
Any of you guys looking for an earlier closed knuckle Dana 60 w/ drum brakes ?
I know a guy who has one, but he would probably not part company with it for less than $1k.
I had looked at a '72 F250 4x4 a year ago, which I did not purchase. The seller showed me his extra closed knuckle D-60.
Hi guys here is my 79 F700 cab sitting on a 2016 f250 frame with a 6.7 powerstroke and f250 front clip. I’m looking for a forum where I can get feed back and interaction lol I’ve have some project threads in the past with no interaction which kinda defeats the purpose
[QUOTE=6805eagleguy;20305609]Hi guys here is my 79 F700 cab sitting on a 2016 f250 frame with a 6.7 powerstroke and f250 front clip. I’m looking for a forum where I can get feed back and interaction lol I’ve have some project threads in the past with no interaction which kinda defeats the purpose
man this is exactly what I’m looking to do. I’m too intimidated to actually start it 🤦🏼♂️ I’d love to follow your build!
Dang eagleguy, that looks awesome. I agree with firemedic, this is exactly what I would like to do. Great to see a project like this. If you start a dedicated build thread on here be sure to include a link to it. I'd love to follow along (and live vicariously through you )
Hey guys, well I got the 460 (466) on the dyno and now in the process of putting it in replacing that old 351m. It gonna take some time but I’m finally making some headway…any inexpensive way to do the front accessory drive…v belt or serpentine? The Dyno tech said that it’s running about 50hp light….if this was a little white lie…then I’m still happy with these numbers
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