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Some of the guys in this thread wrote they felt the truck had more power. Do any of you guys that have installed the new blue cps have access to a dyno or any race times to prove or disprove this ?? Even if there is no power improvement , if the motor runs smoother / quiter I want one. Will be installing one soon. Just curious though if someone out there can test thier truck with the new blue cps.. If someone does please update us..
And it couldn't even hit the camshaft, either, as it senses the rotation of the camshaft drive gear and that's the only thing it comes close to.
Pop
Yes I miss quoted. When we were talking about this issue I meant to say the blue sensor hitting the cam gear, not the crankshaft. So you are right Springer!
i just got back from a ride after installing the "blue cps" in my 2000 ford f-250, and it runs much smoother and quieter, but i didn't notice any more power. I'll report back on fuel mileage and any other updates
Just installed mine tonight, had a rough time pulling the black one out but the blue one went in nice. Truck was not quieter but is smoother. I am putting on 350mi. tomorrow so we will see about mileage. Mine was only $105.14 with tax. I was surprised.
had a rough time pulling the black one out but the blue one went in nice
Mine was the same way. I'm not sure why it was so tough to get the black one out. It's only been in there for maybe a year. But, man, that thing was jammed in there tight.
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[QUOTE=SpringerPop
Most of what he told you is just plain bunk! I won't get into it unless someone asks, but as an example, the International DT466 has a RADICALLY different crankshaft. It's a six-cylinder engine, for goodness sakes! And the sensor wouldn't hit the crankshaft, anyway, it senses the camshaft position. And it couldn't even hit the camshaft, either, as it senses the rotation of the camshaft drive gear and that's the only thing it comes close to.
Pop[/QUOTE]
Actually the cam sensor can very easily hit the cam shaft. The air gap of the sensor is .020-.030", .025"is ideal. Many times when you remove a cam sensor you can see where teh sensor hit the pick up wheel, thus the reason for the shims. You can also have the cam gear not sweated on correctly from the factory which will allow the cam to walk back and forth causing a cam siganal noise (the #1 fault code thrown for a cmps) You also need to check the run out of the pick up wheel. The runout could be caused by the above and or a warped pick up wheel.
The old cam sensors are hard to pull out because the o-ring swells. I've used a three foot prybar to get some of them out, broken others in half, and even heated one up to break the o-ring seal.
Never heard of anyone changing a sensor as pm. Some vehicles eat up sensors and others have never had the originals in them from 1994. Luck of the draw I guess.
Just changed to the "Blue" CPS. It was a B*tch getting out. Did not think it would come out. I don't know if others have the second Alternator, but mine was beside the CPS and prevented me from coming from the side. I had to come from the front, over the the pully. Not much leverage from that position. The 'Blue" CPS went in easy (I lubed the o-ring). i'm going to fill up today and find out if any MPG increase on next fill-up. The idle seemed smoother and quieter. Its been too warm here in the Chicago area to see how it starts in the cold weather.
__________________
01 F250 7.3 PSD CC 4x4 Lariat Auto
Skyjacker 6" lift 35in BFG Tires
A.R.E Cap
Viper Alarm
K&N FIPK w/Filter wrap
3 Gauge A-Pillar, "Blue" CPS
hpx mod, Preadator Tuner, 4in Exhaust Turbo back
I finally recieved funding from Congress(ie.Wife). Paid 105.15 from local dealer. Before he made his new movie King Kong must have tightened that 10mm bolt. Had one heck of a time getting it loose. Truck does run smoother will post mileage readings at next fill up. On a side note, the Blue CPS magnet would pick up a snap on 1/4 drive ratchet and 10mm socket(deep well). Original one wouldn't even budge it. I'll let y'all know what happens!
I noticed two different part numbers listed in this thread. One is the IHC#1807339C92 (which diesel performance products has) and the other is IHC#1825899C93. Which is the correct part number for the 2002 7.3L PSD?
I don't know if others have the second Alternator, but mine was beside the CPS and prevented me from coming from the side. I had to come from the front, over the the pully. Not much leverage from that position.
I don't have a second alternator (wish I did though),but I found the easiest way to access the CPS is actually from under the truck. It's still a tight fit between the radiator and the engine, but for me, it's easier from underneath.
I noticed two different part numbers listed in this thread. One is the IHC#1807339C92 (which diesel performance products has) and the other is IHC#1825899C93. Which is the correct part number for the 2002 7.3L PSD?
Thats because the C93 is the cps that matches the original one in your engine, and the C92(blue cps that diesel peformance products has) is the cps for the dt466 engine. Guys are reporting better performance with the blue cps. Either will work, just your choice i guess.
Still havent gotten mine, got a notice of oos. Money was refunded yesterday, so I am gonna have to order another on Monday. There is a guy selling them for $85 on fleabay. I think I will go that route... Guys, please post MPG changes as that is a key factor to this upgrade. Thanks!!
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