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Most who have not read the International (and maybe the Ford) service manual don't mark the gears. You are fine with the new gears. I did my front cover before the intake; I have not seen DTR's video. I'm close to having a front cover video published but have not done the narrative due to my winter voice.
You need to put dabs of TA-31 where the cord gasket nubs are and use Loctite 262 under the wear sleeve. I also lightly shaved my nubs, but that is my own thing. The manual gives torque specs but without a pattern. I laid out my own pattern for the cover and seal cover, and torqued the bolts in steps. I also oiled my bolts, not that it's needed with stock bolts. But I had cleaned my bolts with acetone, so I had removed the oil included with the black phosphate coating. The clamping force (pre-load) would have been less with the higher friction, non-oiled bolts.
The dampener bolts are a high torque value, ~178lb-ft. I measured the torque while doing the 90ºs rotation stated in the manual, my Snap-On wrench can do that. Mechanics often wedge the flywheel against the bell housing to lock the crankshaft. On a stand, I had a bar across two bolts in the rear of the crankshaft going to the floor. The later version of the video includes showing the ARP bolts for the application, and that torque is MUCH less, using only 90lb-ft, so it would be easier for an in-frame repair. A conversation with ARP about why the difference was their statement about the difference in lubrication, but I have a hard time believing that the clamping loads are the same. However, I have never read anyone having a dampener come loose with the ARP bolts. So for $50, you might want to consider getting them.
Most who have not read the International (and maybe the Ford) service manual don't mark the gears. You are fine with the new gears. I did my front cover before the intake; I have not seen DTR's video. I'm close to having a front cover video published but have not done the narrative due to my winter voice.
You need to put dabs of TA-31 where the cord gasket nubs are and use Loctite 262 under the wear sleeve. I also lightly shaved my nubs, but that is my own thing. The manual gives torque specs but without a pattern. I laid out my own pattern for the cover and seal cover, and torqued the bolts in steps. I also oiled my bolts, not that it's needed with stock bolts. But I had cleaned my bolts with acetone, so I had removed the oil included with the black phosphate coating. The clamping force (pre-load) would have been less with the higher friction, non-oiled bolts.
The dampener bolts are a high torque value, ~178lb-ft. I measured the torque along with the 90ºs rotation stated in the manual, my Snap-On wrench can do that. Mechanics often wedge the flywheel against the bell housing to lock the crankshaft. On a stand, I had a bar across two bolts in the rear of the crankshaft going to the floor. The later version of the video includes showing the ARP bolts for the application, and that torque is MUCH less, using only 90lb-ft, so it would be easier for an in-frame repair. A conversation with ARP about why the difference was their statement about the difference in lubrication, but I have a hard time believing that the clamping loads are the same. However, I have never read anyone having a dampener come loose with the ARP bolts. So for $50, you might want to consider getting them.
I had put up an unfinished video for someone else to preview, so I'll share that here (for the day). You'll have no idea why I showed so much of the front of the block in the beginning.
thanks for sharing all of the information, do you have any recommendations for dealing with that O-ring on the top of the front cover that interfaces with the intake manifold? Some folks say you can loosen the intake manifold hardware allowing enough space for the O ring to go into place and not push on the cover excessively causing issues with the oil pump gears. I noticed my oil pump gears came right out with a magnet. It seems like if the cover is not aligned well it could cause binding and premature wear on the lpop.
You have alignment guides located on the block for the cover. With the guides locking the cover, I don't see how later on there would be any gear contact or pressure.
You could loosen the manifold bolt to get some clearance. While the intake manifold gaskets are reusable, I don't know how reusable after your miles.
I guess if I had to install the cover with the manifold in place, I would use some weatherstrip adhesive to hold the o-ring in place while I was lifting up the cover to compress the o-ring and get the cover on the locating guides. I just don't know how much force that would take. In my world, I prefer to have the intake manifold off.
You have alignment guides located on the block for the cover. With the guides locking the cover, I don't see how later on there would be any gear contact or pressure.
You could loosen the manifold bolt to get some clearance. While the intake manifold gaskets are reusable, I don't know how reusable after your miles.
I guess if I had to install the cover with the manifold in place, I would use some weatherstrip adhesive to hold the o-ring in place while I was lifting up the cover to compress the o-ring and get the cover on the locating guides. I just don't know how much force that would take. In my world, I prefer to have the intake manifold off.
Yeah I think some alignment pins like you made would be great. Do you remember the thread diameter/pitch for the front cover bolts? Wonder if I can make some myself to make sure this thing goes on happily.
Doing the R&R of the intake manifold is not that muck work.
You can have it off and back on in short order. One thing to keep in mind
is that you tighten one side then the other.
I use threaded rod when putting many things together, I believe the cover was 8mm.
But those are not the guide pins I was talking about. I showed in the video the two guide pins that register the cover over the crankshaft and the oil pump gears.
Let me highlight what I think your main issue is, the corrosion/erosion of the block; all of your coolant port exhibit this to some degree, but the exit from the driver's head is the worst; where it leaks..
A quick image again from my video, my block, not as detailed as a photograph.
When we look at your block's output port, the severe corrosion is compromising the seal of the gasket. If this was a bare block, I'd be welding that area to fill it in, then milling the front cover surface to dress it. You've got a really tough situation there of how to fill it in for a good seal. An exemplamary amount of cleaning to get it to clean metal, and then a decision of how to fill it in and with what.
Let me highlight what I think your main issue is, the corrosion/erosion of the block; all of your coolant port exhibit this to some degree, but the exit from the driver's head is the worst; where it leaks..
A quick image again from my video, my block, not as detailed as a photograph.
When we look at your block's output port, the severe corrosion is compromising the seal of the gasket. If this was a bare block, I'd be welding that area to fill it in, then milling the front cover surface to dress it. You've got a really tough situation there of how to fill it in for a good seal. An exemplamary amount of cleaning to get it to clean metal, and then a decision of how to fill it in and with what.
Cleaned up surfaces
i do have a tig welder but no way to surface it flat in the truck. Here it is cleaned up.
That looks a lot better than it did in the other picture. The other image made it look like more had erroded away. You might be able to apply RTV to get it to seal better.
That looks a lot better than it did in the other picture. The other image made it look like more had erroded away. You might be able to apply RTV to get it to seal better.
he Block Coolant outlet close up.
better picture it’s not terrible but there has been some erosion or electrolysis going on.
do you think the RTV will inhibit the o ring seal on the new gasket from doing its job?
That's a little more than I thought it was at the top.
Pete, 87crewdually might have a better answer for you than I do. I don't do that much welding or brazing. If it were built up, I would not have an issue with taking a flat-file and bringing the proud area down, using the other surrounding area as a base for the file to drag on, but doing it with care.
The other approach would be to email Devcon and see if they felt their surface repair epoxy would hold up. I've seen their products used in a marine environment and hold up well. They are not JB Weld; they have a much deeper experience.
I wonder if that head has or did have a head gasket leak. It may not be electrolysis since the other side port is OK, but escaping combustion gasses is corrosive. When there is a head gasket failure, you see a lot of rust in the accompanying coolant ports.
That's a little more than I thought it was at the top.
Pete, 87crewdually might have a better answer for you than I do. I don't do that much welding or brazing. If it were built up, I would not have an issue with taking a flat-file and bringing the proud area down, using the other surrounding area as a base for the file to drag on, but doing it with care.
The other approach would be to email Devcon and see if they felt their surface repair epoxy would hold up. I've seen their products used in a marine environment and hold up well. They are not JB Weld; they have a much deeper experience.
I wonder if that head has or did have a head gasket leak. It may not be electrolysis since the other side port is OK, but escaping combustion gasses is corrosive. When there is a head gasket failure, you see a lot of rust in the accompanying coolant ports.
excellent question, I’ll get some pictures of the port. I haven’t seen much degas bottle staining. It has puked a very small amount of coolant once or twice but I chalked that up to being overfilled. It is interesting that the gasket sure got beat up at that port and the others looked much better. I have no wear sleeve on crankshaft so I’m thinking this front cover has never been off. Would Rotella ELC coolant cause this? I converted about 20,000 miles ago.
excellent question, I’ll get some pictures of the port. I haven’t seen much degas bottle staining. It has puked a very small amount of coolant once or twice but I chalked that up to being overfilled. It is interesting that the gasket sure got beat up at that port and the others looked much better. I have no wear sleeve on crankshaft so I’m thinking this front cover has never been off. Would Rotella ELC coolant cause this? I converted about 20,000 miles ago.
You really do need a pressure gauge on your degas bottle. IMO you have a small head gasket leak.
What is the highest coolant temperature you have seen?
How many miles on your truck now?
I am curious - what was the coolant story before the switch :
which coolant did you use
how long did you go between flushes
did you confidently maintain 40-60%
how did you flush to convert to the ELC
any contamination events
I have used Devon products in the past with good success. Years ago we did a repair job in the tooling shop with their Titanium putty and drilled/tapped holes directly into the Devcon.The key thing to remember with which ever route you decide(Devcon/weld/RTV) is that the parent surface needs to be flat and clean. You would need to apply the Devcon and make sure it is proud and after letting it cure FULLY you would need to use a file and then a sharpening stone to make it flat to the surrounding surface.
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