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You have something more like the Vivid Racing kit that @cleatus12r posted.
You're right. Rough Country is the only similar setup I found, so at first I thought it might have been an older version of that kit. The one cleatus12r posted does look more like it. Also looks like it should have come with a trackbar bracket if that is it.
Out of cusiosity I just went to the Vivid Racing website and can't find the kit that he posted either, or at least it doesn't come up in a search for 99-00 F-250 lift or leveling kits.
You are correct. The rear hangers are longer than factory as well. I would need new rear hangers as well.
Just for now anyway. Here is just about the only e99 adjustable track bar I can find. It looks like it's well made. It'll be a bit before it gets here though. I think the spacers will work for the time being until this gets here. I haven't ordered it yet. Thanks! https://www.amazon.com/Forged-Track-.../dp/B07XLTZGZV
Sorry for any confusion buddy. I thought I saw a new brcket that was made of cast.. Now that I don't have kids pulling at the ankles and I can fully focus I can see the drop bracket clear as day.
Glad my screwdriver trick helped get the steering shaft on.
Joel, someone used more force than Tristan had available to get that track bar on the donor truck. It’s much easier to take track bar off than put it back on - every time.
3” lift is just barely beyond what works easily with stock length track bar. You’ll see the ‘mini-spring packs’ at ‘2.8” lift’ for this reason. Even then, the compromise is the axle is not centered under the truck.
Tristan, you will not be able to ‘space the track bar down’ with simple spacers. The complex shape and odd angles prevent the easy fix your dad has proposed.
It also appears the sway bar end links are longer than stock E99. Maybe they are L99 with the E99 style frame mounts? Either way, there may be other challenges to just ‘removing the lift components’. I feel like modifying your track bar is the most economical option you have right now. Cut the track bar you have now and add a sleeve of heavy wall tubing over it, then weld it back together at the length you need.
Like I said in a text yesterday, you can drive the truck without track bar or rear blocks if you need transportation. Just let your britches hang down if you don’t put the rear blocks in - you’ll fit in with the brodozers better that way. Bump steer and ‘death wobble’ is possible, but not likely a problem on a drive you could ride your bicycle on.
I had thought the different year model bars would be a little longer. I'm sorry I do not know more about these trucks. I have never messed with a 4x4 before. I apologize for my ignorance. I do understand that the lift is making the track bar too short but, I still had to try because it was on the other truck and was mounted. I do not know how they mounted it though.....
I also figured it would be a pain to remove the front shackle extensions and try to line the leaf springs back up with the longer rear hangers. Again I apologize for my ignorance and I do not know that this is true.
There is no reason to apologize or feel bad. I was/am in no way trying to come off as mad, a jerk, or annoyed. It's cool you're taking on this project with no experience....we all started somewhere.
I eat, sleep, and dream everything 7.3L and have been modifying them for years. I started like you.....diving into the unknown.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do with it from this point!
Glad my screwdriver trick helped get the steering shaft on.
Joel, someone used more force than Tristan had available to get that track bar on the donor truck. It’s much easier to take track bar off than put it back on - every time.
3” lift is just barely beyond what works easily with stock length track bar. You’ll see the ‘mini-spring packs’ at ‘2.8” lift’ for this reason. Even then, the compromise is the axle is not centered under the truck.
Tristan, you will not be able to ‘space the track bar down’ with simple spacers. The complex shape and odd angles prevent the easy fix your dad has proposed.
It was a good idea anyway!
It also appears the sway bar end links are longer than stock E99. Maybe they are L99 with the E99 style frame mounts? Either way, there may be other challenges to just ‘removing the lift components’. I feel like modifying your track bar is the most economical option you have right now. Cut the track bar you have now and add a sleeve of heavy wall tubing over it, then weld it back together at the length you need.
Now that you mention it, my end links do look a lot different than Joel's. With these sleeve of tubing be the length of the track bar or just long enough to reattach it with some overhang?
Like I said in a text yesterday, you can drive the truck without track bar or rear blocks if you need transportation. Just let your britches hang down if you don’t put the rear blocks in - you’ll fit in with the brodozers better that way. Bump steer and ‘death wobble’ is possible, but not likely a problem on a drive you could ride your bicycle on.
I'm getting ready to go outside and put my rear blocks in now. After I make breakfast. I couldn't possibly drive a spotted truck! I couldn't do it!
I may just do that. Length in the track bar that is. I will see what I can come up with. I have called all the jobs I was supposed to be at today and informed them that I may be late a day or so. The schedule is clear for today so that I may get the truck on the road properly!
Not saying it's correct, but I've sleeved a couple track bars.
Cut in the middle, put a piece of tubing over, weld in a spacer to the bar, grind to size, slide the tubing over, then weld on the tubing.
The track bar is not a critical component so....
Do what you need to do.
Not gonna lie, I did the same to a draglink on a previous pickup I lifted 21" that ran 49" tires. Not proud of it but I was a dumb kid at the time. I did the track bar and sway bar links the same way.
Not saying it's correct, but I've sleeved a couple track bars.
Cut in the middle, put a piece of tubing over, weld in a spacer to the bar, grind to size, slide the tubing over, then weld on the tubing.
The track bar is not a critical component so....
Do what you need to do.
Not gonna lie, I did the same to a draglink on a previous pickup I lifted 21" that ran 49" tires. Not proud of it but I was a dumb kid at the time. I did the track bar and sway bar links the same way.
Don't do the draglink.....NOT SAFE.
we made panhard bars for buddy's race cars(late models)...using heims..grant it, it's comparing Apple's to pears but, does the axle need to be set at a certain height/compress the truck/lift truck up...etc, to get an accurate measurement for length of bar? I remember them saying as well, the longer the panhard, the better...
Not saying it's correct, but I've sleeved a couple track bars.
Cut in the middle, put a piece of tubing over, weld in a spacer to the bar, grind to size, slide the tubing over, then weld on the tubing.
The track bar is not a critical component so....
Do what you need to do.
Not gonna lie, I did the same to a draglink on a previous pickup I lifted 21" that ran 49" tires. Not proud of it but I was a dumb kid at the time. I did the track bar and sway bar links the same way.
Don't do the draglink.....NOT SAFE.
So my current track bar is about 2 inches short if that. Do I need the track bar to be a little bit short so it's tight? Or just make it where it'll bolt up? For instance, turning the wheel to the left brings the track bar considerably closer to the amount. Should I turn the wheel all the way to the left and then make the bar fit so that when I turn back to the right it'll be tight?
So my current track bar is about 2 inches short if that. Do I need the track bar to be a little bit short so it's tight? Or just make it where it'll bolt up? For instance, turning the wheel to the left brings the track bar considerably closer to the amount. Should I turn the wheel all the way to the left and then make the bar fit so that when I turn back to the right it'll be tight?
You want it so the axle is centered side-to-side relative to the frame when the truck is at its static ride height. If after steering to get the track bar hooked up and then recentering gets everything lined up properly, then it’s good.
Glad my screwdriver trick helped get the steering shaft on.
Joel, someone used more force than Tristan had available to get that track bar on the donor truck. It’s much easier to take track bar off than put it back on - every time.
3” lift is just barely beyond what works easily with stock length track bar. You’ll see the ‘mini-spring packs’ at ‘2.8” lift’ for this reason. Even then, the compromise is the axle is not centered under the truck.
Tristan, you will not be able to ‘space the track bar down’ with simple spacers. The complex shape and odd angles prevent the easy fix your dad has proposed.
It also appears the sway bar end links are longer than stock E99. Maybe they are L99 with the E99 style frame mounts? Either way, there may be other challenges to just ‘removing the lift components’. I feel like modifying your track bar is the most economical option you have right now. Cut the track bar you have now and add a sleeve of heavy wall tubing over it, then weld it back together at the length you need.
Like I said in a text yesterday, you can drive the truck without track bar or rear blocks if you need transportation. Just let your britches hang down if you don’t put the rear blocks in - you’ll fit in with the brodozers better that way. Bump steer and ‘death wobble’ is possible, but not likely a problem on a drive you could ride your bicycle on.
As I have never lifted a truck, I have not had the pleasure of learning this as I went like Tristan is doing.
The upper bracket bolts sheared off in the wreck so taking it apart was fairly easy. Gravity helped!
Tristan, I can't wait to see you and your lifted 4x4 at the next GTG! I can just see you grinning ear to ear as we all get to see the results of all your hard work.
And I'm proud to be a part of this awesome community of 7.3 lovers who step in to help one another like this.
Now if only there was this kind of support for computer nerds who moves their office PC to another case so they can build a file server resulting in a dead office computer. Which runs their business...
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