The one that's slipping is the one on the left. I'm sure you already knew that though. Why are there different clamps? All my clamps are mixed match like this. You can see how I had to put the clamp further off to the side to get it to stay on so I could get home.

 

You are positive the molded ridge is sitting in the groove all the way around? You may have to take the pipe to a pipe shop and get it swaged back to a true round form. They may be able to braze a reinforcing ring on the inside of the end of the pipe for you too.

That is quite the variety of clamps. It shouldn’t matter if they are all in good shape though.

 

The mix match of clamps is Ford saving money on costs.

The clamps with the springs in them are more expensive.

The springs apply pressure to the nut, adding more resistance to the nut loosening due to vibration.

The nylon in the NyLock nut softens due to heat, and doesn't provide sufficient resistance to loosening while it is partially melting (and later resolidfying after having clocked a little bit incrementally with each thermal cycle).

Ford put the spring loaded (also called constant tension) clamps on the hot side only... and initially, Ford may not have had constant tension clamps at all (early 99), but my memory has faded on that detail.

I do very clearly remember that Ford issued a TSB in 2001 suggesting that clamps be upgraded to current production issue (with springs) for customers who experienced pop offs... but most reported pop offs were on the hot side (driver's side).

Yours is unusual... in that you had a pop off on the cold side.

The current mish mash of clamp location some 23 years after the fact on a truck that has changed hands several times offers no indication of where the original (or TSB revised) clamps were initially located.

When I had my pop off (yes, I'm in the club as well), I had it only one time, hot side at the spider to CAC tube. Immediately thereafter, I obtained the revised clamps from Ford, only I put them in all 8 positions. (I didn't change the spider to intake plenum clamps, just all of the CAC tubing clamps).

So, all of my CAC clamps have springs, on both sides, in order to maintain constant (and consistent) tension.

Having the same clamps all around also makes removal and installation easier, especially for someone who is losing gray matter inside the head, while gaining gray matter outside the head. Actually, I'm losing that too.

 

Tristian, I've not "joined the club, yet" and I've never exceeded low to mid 20's of boost. Fryer's used in restaurants sometimes use the same clamps with rubber couplings for the drain pipes and sometimes the clamps would slide like you are talking about. Only thing I knew cause that was a misalignment of the pipes for some reason.

I can bring a pipe for you next month...it won't be red though.

 

On my e99 trucks and the 01 donor truck (now my 99 / 01 daily driver) used the spring style on the intercooler couplings...both sides. Never saw any anywhere else.

 

I took the pipe off and held it in my hands and slid the boot on till the ridge popped in and the clamp still slid off. When I replace all the boots I will probably replace all the clamps as well.

 

Did you buy your E99 truck brand new?

 

I hope I don't need it, but I would appreciate it! I took the pipe off and held it in my hand and put the tube on to the boot and put the clamp on and the clamp wants to slide off the end of the tube almost like it's tapered. I'm not too sure. Then again maybe it was because I wasn't cleaning the oil off properly.

 

Curiosity took hold, so I looked in my paper files from 20+ years ago, and found the following:

Ford Special Service Message 13706 suggests that dealer service techs can fix excessive oil leaking from driver's side (hot side) CAC boots by replacing the original clamps with revised production spring clamps (YC3Z-6K786-DA) that will better accommodate thermal expansion.

The original clamps were not spring loaded, and would loosen from expansion and contraction of the boots (and the expansion/contraction of the metal the boots surrounded).

Gradually loosened clamps allowed more CCV oil to seep inbetween the boot and the CAC pipe, which contributed to the CAC pipe blowing off the spider.

Ford's SSM went further to suggest that if the CAC tube already blew off of the spider, then replace the tube assembly (also a revised design YC3Z-6C646-AB). This was all over 20 years ago.

I don't think digital cameras were very common or affordable back then. Certainly smart phones didn't exist... so the photos I took below were all shot on 35mm film. Today I took a digital photo of the 4x6 prints found in the file from when I changed all 8 boot clamps to the revised (spring loaded) design.

(Whoever buys my truck when I'm too old to drive it may actually need the entire 2 ton capacity of the truck there and then just to haul all the documentation I will include with it)



The upper left hand print shows the difference between old and new clamp.

You may have also noticed that I have aftermarket boots, or "hump hoses". The OBS used hump hoses OEM. The Super Duty changed to a non hump hose, with a wire reinforcing ring constricting the middle of the hose. The aftermarket hump hoses shown above (with a close up below) are made of thicker material. Riff Raff didn't exist back then.



Finally, I never threw away the OEM parts, but rather kept them to create a boost leak detector that is capable of blocking multiple open ports simultaneously... so for example, if your red colored cold side metal CAC tube actually did have a crack as FTN asked about, or if the heat affected zone surrounding the previous weld repair suffered embrittlement that lead to a pinhole leak, this type of boost leak detector, using all the original OEM boot parts, can be fitted to each end of just that CAC tube alone, to test the part in isolation for a leak.



I'd take runningman777 up on his offer of a replacement cold side tube, and furthermore get new boots, and spring loaded clamps, whenever you are financially able to.

 

After the ridge popped in, you then tightened the clamp down on the boot over the area where the ridge is?

 

Looks like it’s already been covered.
I was going to say I think the spring clamp with the little rubber cap is typically on the hot side pipe near the spyder. What’s your hot side look like? Have spring clamps over there?
Someone correct me if I’m off base here.

And I have always wondered why they have the little cap on the clamp. Some type of production phenomenon I assume. Safety?

 

Yes. The boot has two stripes on it indicating where the clamp should sit. I tightened it onto this spot but it would slide up and off the end of the pipe so I had to move it down further towards the pipe. As you saw in the picture above. And then after I did that, the pipe blew off last night.

 

Damn. That sucks. Have you tried swapping the places of those two clamps to put the spring clamp on the CAC pipe end of the boot?

 

I have not. I will try that. Right now it just needs to work until I get some new boots in anyway.

 

Tristan you can also prespray hairspray on the tube and boot before installing.

Both must be degreased first.