E99: Yet Another S300 SX-E Thread
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
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From: N.GA Mountains
The groove in the boot is only helpful if there is a corresponding bump in the pipe.
Many folks weld a ring of steel or lay a weld bead on the end of pipes to make it harder for clamped boots to ‘slide off’.
It is good practice to install boots while still damp with brake cleaner. This greatly improves their ‘grip’ on the pipes. This is above and beyond the requisite standard 100% oil free surfaces.
Many folks weld a ring of steel or lay a weld bead on the end of pipes to make it harder for clamped boots to ‘slide off’.
It is good practice to install boots while still damp with brake cleaner. This greatly improves their ‘grip’ on the pipes. This is above and beyond the requisite standard 100% oil free surfaces.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
I had a local welder put a ring of schmutz on the CSD hot side pipe before installing it. The ring provides just enough of a grab point and with proper cleaning and clamping, I have had zero (0) blow offs. This is after traveling thousands of miles towing heavy. I hope I didn't just jinx myself, but if I did I now travel with a can of brake cleaner and a 2' 3/8" ratchet extension due to some previous boot blow off experiences with the MST.
Really, you will probably be boosting less with the SXE than with a MST. They just work differently...
Take time to properly clean and clamp the boots and pipes and then get a couple of good heat/cool cycles in and you should be good.
Really, you will probably be boosting less with the SXE than with a MST. They just work differently...
Take time to properly clean and clamp the boots and pipes and then get a couple of good heat/cool cycles in and you should be good.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 1,118
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Here is one option.
Trying to wrap my head around exhaust sizing... I think I need a 4" ID to 3.5" ID reducer for the 4" OD downpipe and 3.5" OD exhaust pipe to slide in to respectively, with two lap joint clamps of appropriate size to seal things. Luckily O'Reilly's can get me all these parts by tomorrow. Here's the part numbers for anyone who ends up following a similar trajectory:
Walker 41894 - 4" to 3.5" reducer
33274 - 4" lap joint clamp
33273 - 3.5" lap joint clamp
On the non T4 side of things, I have the fuel bowl completely stripped down. Good thing I did this as the degraded poppet seat and OBS style heater element were ticking time bombs. I've noticed some metal shavings in the bottom of the bowl. I'm not sure what this signifies... could be the fuel pump but it hasn't presented any signs of failure.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
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From: N.GA Mountains
‘Tubing’ is typically measured/called out in OD.
4” dia exhaust tubing is typically 4” OD.
The reducer and slip fit pieces may be different. The walker catalog has drawings with all of those dimensions.
What are the clamps for?
4” dia exhaust tubing is typically 4” OD.
The reducer and slip fit pieces may be different. The walker catalog has drawings with all of those dimensions.
What are the clamps for?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 425
Drew up this diagram to give an idea of what I'm picturing. Unshaded area is the pipes, shaded is the reducer, diagonal lined are the clamps. Clamps will be used to secure the reducer to pipe.
Managed to get the downpipe and up pipes out of the truck today. Used a mid torque impact to loosen the DP to exhaust connection. It looks like I'll cut the exhaust right before the attachment point for the reducer to slip over it:
Loosened the passenger uppipe from the collector using a breaker bar and ratchet. Once disconnected the pipe came right out as did the collector+ driver side pipe.
The downpipe was tricky and I thought about cutting it, but with the up pipe out of the way I was able to maneuver it out with several rotation/twisting motions.
Getting ready to give the valley a deep clean and paint (if I have the time). Bought some brass 1/8 npt plugs to seal off the fuel ports on the head so there's no chance of stuff getting in there as I'm cleaning.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
Coming right along. Good work!
I don’t think those clamps are going to provide an adequate seal for this application. I was picturing welds where you have the clamps drawn. (Nice drawing btw!)
I don’t think those clamps are going to provide an adequate seal for this application. I was picturing welds where you have the clamps drawn. (Nice drawing btw!)
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
I adapted my 4” downpipe to my stock exhaust (the guts fell out of the kitty and I deleted the muffler).
My motivation was a lack of cab chassis exhaust systems back then, but I also like to say ‘I’m not cheap, I’m broke!’.
My motivation was a lack of cab chassis exhaust systems back then, but I also like to say ‘I’m not cheap, I’m broke!’.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,354
Likes: 5,946
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
I used the Walker catalog to find measurements and diameters when I was going from CSD down pipe to MBRP 4" exhaust. I ended up using a commercial grade flex exhaust piece, a lap joint step clamp (like you are planning) and a traditional ring clamp. The CSD pipe fit in the flex pipe, the flex pipe fit in the MBRP pipe and the lap clamp is doing well.
On my application.
Going forward, I would forgo the ring clamps and use lap clamps. The ring clamps pinch and the lap clamps create a mechanical seal.
Just my opinion though...
On my application.
Going forward, I would forgo the ring clamps and use lap clamps. The ring clamps pinch and the lap clamps create a mechanical seal.
Just my opinion though...
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: N.GA Mountains
Conventional exhaust clamps do not allow easy disassembly. If you tighten them enough to seal, you’ll often have to cut a slit in the outer pipe to open it enough to slide off. Not pretty!!
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Henderson, NV
May I suggest welding one end of the reducer to either the exhaust or the downpipe? Trying to wrangle 5 moving parts (downpipe, small lap clamp, reducer, big lap clamp, exhaust) is a PITA. I speak from experience.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
This would have been my preferred method, if I had a welder...
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Henderson, NV
Well get thee a welder then! Along with a really big fire extinguisher. The number of things I set on fire when I first started welding I tell you….
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: N.GA Mountains
Here I adapted a stock 7.3 DP to a 4” 6.0 exhaust system.
No leaks, but I’d wait for a welder to show up if I was building CAC pipes. Actually, fit up and cleaning areas to be welded are the biggest keys to nice welds. Almost anyone can lay a nice bead when everything is set up right.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,354
Likes: 5,946
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Well Leonard, I may pick one up when I start making live edge tables and what not. Until then, I take my work to the local "old fella" down the road that does welding jobs out of his garage and has for the past 50 years. Besides, I would be a grinder more than a welder for a while I am sure. A grinder and a can of paint can make it puuuuurrrrrdy though.